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R3N3

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Everything posted by R3N3

  1. R3N3
    Yes agree with above. I will be squeezing the biggest tyre in possible, so will measure on the car once I have the rims. I have some 3 piece work wheels arriving next week and they are a reasonably aggressive offset. I currently run a 255 on a 10” and a 235 on a 9” technically the 245 will set more square on the 9.5” than the existing 255 on the 10”
  2. R3N3
    Thanks. So this would involve changing the axles to the 6x1 pattern to match the diff?
  3. R3N3
    So I nearly pulled the trigger on a 2020 RS4 this week (facelift one)… However, one of my main concerns is that it will then hard to justify spending money on the skyline… so I’m gonna wait till it’s “finished” haha The new muffler has arrived: twin 3” tips that fill the muffler cutout nicely. also, I got a slow puncture/leak in the kodiaq and liked how it told me. It is also nice to see tyre pressures etc. so I got the Haltech TMS kit: I went with the stem-cap style ones, as I didn’t like the idea of having to remove tyres and to replace the other ones when the battery died (no replaceable battery).
  4. R3N3
    Luckily I’m only looking at a 245 (9.5” rim) and a 225 (9” rim). I am waiting for my wheels to arrive before I buy tyres, to see if I can get away with a wider tire (preferable).
  5. R3N3
    Awesome, thanks for that. Yeah I actually watched that video, very informative!
  6. R3N3
    Hi all, As the title suggests, I'm in the market for a new LSD for the R33 (non GTR). I have been relatively set on the Nismo Pro 1.5-way, but i have also been recommended to use the Cusco Type-RS diff (also 1.5-way). The feedback was that the Cusco is nice and friendly for street use, due to the more progressive engagement. However, the main benefit i see with the Nismo, is that it comes as a complete kit with bearings, seals and oils etc. is anyone able to comment on their experience with either diff? And is it also worthwhile to go an extended diff cover at the same time? note that the car is mainly street driven, with the aspirations of some reliable track use. Power will be approx 300ish kw (now) and realistically no more than 400kw in the future.
  7. R3N3
    The AD09 are over $200 more per corner..
  8. R3N3
    Awesome, RS-4 it is.
  9. R3N3
    Awesome, thanks for the input!
  10. R3N3
    So im in the market for some new tyres for the R33. the car is mainly street driven, with the ambitions of the odd track day in the future. some of the tyres im looking at: Hankook RS4 Hankook K117 Toyo Proxes Sport Falken FK510 I know the RS4 is a semi slick tyre, so im a little concerned about its performance when street driving on cold tyres in the wet ie. if i decide to drive to work in the 33 in the middle of winter (NZ based, no snow). does anyone have any experience and or thoughts on the above tyres?
  11. R3N3
    Is this something that can be done easily? I’d love to have the stop/start default to off upon startup..
  12. R3N3
    To give the new fan and shroud the best chance, make sure it has a good seal between shroud and radiator to ensure max air flow through the core. As noted above, it will still likely struggle.. I actually had a similar setup, went back to stock and have now gone to a FPG shroud with the biggest and high flowing fan I could find.. I’m yet to test properly. I only went to FPG as finding and sourcing OEM or good 2nd hand parts is much harder and more expensive.
  13. R3N3
    Yeah, I find the later model VAG group cars probably have the best adaptive cruise. Our KIA is ok, but is annoying because it’s always beeping at you for something..
  14. R3N3
    I have considered it yes, however, she has a habit of seeking out stationary objects… so I’m not really mad she can’t drive the skyline or future manuals..
  15. R3N3
    80k in NZ so 74k AU in todays exchange..
  16. R3N3
    I know there’s only 250 units coming to NZ, not sure about AUS.. I actually haven’t driven the GR Yaris or the GR Corolla but assume it would be fun.. you? Toyota NZ are also making people sign contracts so they can’t sell to anyone other than Toyota for 12 months. I believe they are also doing this with landcruisers My wife was actually not happy, as I was going to get the Corolla as my work car and replace my kodiaq. She can’t drive manual, so would be confined to her kia carnival haha.
  17. R3N3
    I found out I was not successful in the ballot for a new GR Corolla today there’s another 100 vehicles arriving later in the year, so will give it another go then.. On the skyline front, car is still at the fabricator, however I have purchased a new wireless CarPlay head unit (Sony XAV-AX6000), new PRP HICAS lock bar (needed new one as I need to re-certify my car and the old one is no longer accepted) and I am actively looking for a Nismo 1.5way LSD. I’m in Sydney for work next week, so will see if I can maybe pick one up there..
  18. R3N3
    I was running a 255/40 on the rear and a 235/40 on the front. Tyres were a Falken FK452 tyre. All I did was roll the guards to get them to fit. I didn’t have aftermarket camber arms, so I think there was about -1.5 deg of camber due to the lowering. Only occasionally would the tyre scrub.
  19. R3N3
    So i have been on the hunt for some nice 'genuine' wheels lately, scouring trademe (our version of ebay) and marketplace. and i narrowed it down to BBS LM's, Enkei RPF1 or Work s1 or m1. Personally, i generally think there is no place for an even number of spokes on a wheel, however one of the few exceptions to this rule is the RPF1. basically, finding good second hand wheels at a reasonable price is nearly impossible and im not confident in my abilities to pick the fakes from the real ones.. so to cut to the chase, i just pulled the trigger on some brand new S1 3-piece wheels: Front = 18x9 +18 Rear = 18x9.5 + 11 Im currently running 17x9 +15 F and 17x10 +15 R, so these should fit nearly the same as my current wheels. the wheels are gloss black centers with polished lips and polished assembly bolts: Normally the lead time is around 20 weeks from Work Wheels, however, the supplier had a spare set in his next shipment, due beginning of April.
  20. R3N3
    It has begun!
  21. R3N3
    Car was picked up today and taken to the workshop. List of work being done: Aluminium intercooler piping 2.5” hot side & 3” cold side. Weld on Turbosmart raceport BOV and IAT sensor. Full 3.5” SS exhaust, with v-band joins. It will be getting one decent resonator in the centre and a custom NZ made muffler (AdrenalinR) for some nice and subdued RB noises. I will be going two 3” tips for that OEM+ look. I don’t need a cat for it to be legal, so will not be running one (we’re less progressive with emission laws here). Custom air box. For now I am parking the factory air box until I sort the additional intake for it, as it will just be a restriction. Welding up the valley cover so it’s nice and Smooth and has no holes. And the indent in the intake side cam cover will also be filled with weld. Tune is booked for early April.
  22. R3N3
    Great progress today! Got the car started, purred to life first go! Even with 18 month old fuel. It’s running as NA at the moment though, as there’s no cooler piping yet. There was also no fires or more leaks, which is always nice... There was a bit of smoke from the turbo and down pipe but this was just the oils etc. burning off. Thanks @Dose Pipe Sutututu for the trigger settings and other haltech tips! I got the coolant up to about 70 degrees, which had opened the thermostat fully (using a nismo low temp) and initial thoughts on the thermo fan are positive, as I was playing round with the duty cycles and even at 30% it reduced the coolant temp quickly. there was a couple of times the idle would hunt, so need to look at the settings a bit better there..
  23. R3N3
    So It’s been a while, between work and home life with 5 month old twins and a 6 year old not really much progress… however I managed to track down a stock air box and snorkel in line with the OEM+ theme: I know it will be a restriction in its current form, however I’m looking to modify it with an additional 3” air intake through the bottom of the box and to go through the 2nd hole for the old SMIC. When it does eventually get on the dyno, we’ll test with and without, to see if it’s still a restriction. If it is, then no real loss and in the bin it goes.. A couple of annoying issues fixed: I noticed a tiny water leak from the plenum, which I traced back to one of the temp sensor ports that I plugged. I noticed it didn’t have any thread sealant… added some and it seems to be fine. I noticed my IC7 dash would intermittently switch off when cranking… A bit of research shows it’s the dumb way (IMO) how Haltech ground their CAN network in the pre-terminated harnesses. Essentially as soon as you add a wideband unit, then you need to ground via battery ground but yet it’s pre-wired to signal ground. I could have just read the wiring diagram for the wideband unit I guess… but it could also have been wired the correct way first..
  24. R3N3
    I have seen them, looks nice! If I went that way I would not want the cutout for the old charcoal canister though..
  25. R3N3
    Thanks! Yeah I test fit it last night and I think I can modify the air box to install an extra air inlet beneath the guard with a pod on it. I will get the pipe work made up to fit the stock air box, if it doesn’t work out I’ll just get a custom one made. I think the stock air box fits the oem+/restomod vibe better.. I have been looking into Varex mufflers and the GFB electronic BOV. I think it would be cool to have a button for different drive modes that control boost, pedal sensitivity, exhaust noise, throttle blip, BOV noise and maybe even like a twin edfc controller etc.. that can maybe be the next stage of mods, as I just want to get it done to drive it..
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