lonleylad

with cans you wont ...under normal spray conditions you need to cut original paint back to its proper colour at least 150mm past any damaged and primer ,,,each coat must overlap the last one edge by about 25/30 mm but dont use heavy application ..when all is covered you then use colour thinners and i mean just coloured to blend in the edges on your last coat ,dont use heavy applications just a misty spray ,,when dry gentle cut to bring up shine ...most spray cans are not the same colour

yeah hanaldo it is a good feeling ,,if you are good with your hands at doing things it is easy to pick up..i am doing my bluebird around oct/nov this yeah ,,not looking forward to it but i like my cars to look good

forgot to add...black has to be the worst colour you can pick as it shows up every mark fault and problem with the panels ..you have to be more than perfect with this colour

to do a even half reasonable job ,there is a lot more to it than gear and brains..first you need to know about setting your spray guns (air and paint flow ),,then you need to make sure your compesser is big enough (min 15 cf pm)..set air pressure out put ..depends on if you are using 2 pac ,,spraying enamel or acrylic lacquer..when this is worked out ..you need your supplies eg paper ,thinners (whether it is gp or what ..you can get a retarder to slow drying time to help settle paint if it is acrylic..if you go with retarder it is even harder as the paint will run a lot easier .then decide if you are going to do a bare metal respray or not ..you have to learn how to rub down (biggest process)..if you dont feather the edges properly it shows up like crap..you have to learn how to do body repairs so they dont show..as it was said before prep is the key ,if it is not done right it is a waste of time as your hard earned cash and time will come to a crappy end very quickly when you have finished ..after you learn all of this ,you then have to learn how to control your gun(speed at which you move ,follow the shape of the panels ,flowing the paint so you dont get missed spots (also if it is mica or not (metalic or non metalic paint ,as the process to applying is different for both...make sure you are in a dust free place as paint seems to attract any dust bugs , you name seem to appear when you are about to paint ..so as you can see ,if it was that easy there would be no painters and beaters around ,,but it is a good feeling when you learn and do the job yourself ..so my advise is ,,get someone to take you through the process and show you before you attemp this job..it is darn expensive in time and money if you fail..also you need to have a very very very very large amount of patience ..so good luck and let us know ..i have been doing resprays just about all my life

hi guys ,,need a bit of tech help with my u13..just fitted a low ks motor to my car ..prob i am having is this..temp was running to high due to fans not cutting in ,,checked all senders and they checked out ok..it only does this if you sit in traffic or at lights for some time or give car a bit of a workout,,normal driving is okay...does not use any fluid or blow back(head and head gasket all okay,,no leaks anywhere...i changed the wiring to run fans all the time on low ..lowered the temp but i still feel as if it still to high..removed thermostat and runs to cold around 60 deg cel(eg wintertime)uses more fuel due to this..had car to a radiator mob and rad seems to be okay,,,with thermo in it runs around 90 deg...when this prob starts it will climb to about 95/96 deg..to me it seems a bit hot ..i cannot find any thing on what the normal operating temp should be..if fans are not working it will climb even higher ..i fitted another aftermarket temp gauge to check it more accuratley

try antrax.com,,read the forum right down to the finish,as the first link does not work anymore ..it is an american version ..it is a great help...to print it off will take nearly 1300 pages..or ebay.com in states sells them in dvd format ..its the same manual..only thing i dont like about it is the wiring diagrammes dont give you the colour code..hope it helps..

one big prob ..if the person who may be interested cannot tidy the car up themselves it would turn them away..if they had to spend big dollars at the beaters to straighten the bod ,,it would be far cheaper to buy a clean straight car ..paint work and beating is that much of a ripoff now..so be prepared for some really stupid offers ..if you can get a mate or friend that nows what they are doing get it done first before you advertise ..first impressions are the sellers ..good luck...shame it had to happen to such a gr8 car

hi guys ..i am a newbe to this sight...hiope i am in the right place..i need some very important info on a 1996 bluebierd sss..i just purchased this car cheaply...the motor has a bad noise ,which i thought was a timing chain problem..i am now thinking it may be eithe gudgeon or cam ..it is a bad clunking noise when load is taken of motor..at start it makes this noise until oil pressure takes up...have taken tappet cover off and upper chains are tight...have not checked lowers yet ..noise seems high on motor..check it with a stethoscope later...the main thing i am asking is ,is it possible to fit a sr20 dohc motor to this car with no probs ..with original box bolt up , use original wiring and ecu with any minor changes...not sure on the power difference but will check..ka24de motors seem a bit hard to come by,so i thought of trying one of these..i am not after a lot of power as i am to old for that now..just want to get this car going to drive...all help would be much appreciated