Dioscorides

Hi Guys, Sorry to bump a thread that is a year old but I thought this is probably the best place to put this question. I've purchased a 5-Pin Narva 12V 40A Relay with Diode protection (P/No. 68032) to upgrade my headlights wiring loom and have attached a diagram of the schematic (pictured at the top of the relay). My question is which pin is the relay switching input (12v) and which pin is the relay switching output (ground) on this type of relay? I would normally connect switching 12v to pin 85 and connect ground to pin 86 (as the diode arrow is facing the way the current travels) - but what is throwing me off is Narva's addition of the little positive (+) sign on pin 86 side. The relays are only $8.80 each but i'd rather get it right the first time and not blow the diode unnecessarily so any help would be much appreciated! Edit: Sorry Mods, I just realised this was in the Tutorial/DIY/FAQ Forum - feel free to delete this and move to the relevant section at your discretion please.

Just to add - you might want to check that the water levels in the battery are ok as well (if it isn't a sealed battery it might also need a slight top up, before you boost and charge it).

The jaycar kits are decent - we have used them on cheap old cars to good effect and because they are pretty cheap you might want to try it out and see if you get the results you are looking for from it. But I would probably stick with the nistune for the safer alternative.

Nistune will definitely be the cheapest option and probably the best for what you need. If you are thinking about modding your car later on down the track than maybe go for a second hand Power FC unit but it will be would be more expensive.

Anything can be fixed - just depends on the price, So just depends what will end up cheaper for you - but I highly doubt it will cost any more than a few hundred dollars for labour and parts!

Creatd Motor Sport 9357-7663 they are in Campbellfield Vic Speak to Daniel and or Injectronics in Hallam (I know it's the other side of the city to you - but they will be able to definitely get you started and do a great job). 8792 6999 As the others have said, pop the unit out, open it up and see if there are any burnt tracks - if he did jump it incorrectly, there will most likely be a few blown diodes, but shouldn't be a major problem to fix!

It's sad you can't trust many places these days to do decent work for a decent price Good mechanics and decent people are hard to find - but when you do make sure they understand how appreciative you are of their work! Sorry to hear of the troubles though, some people deserve to be shot for their dodgey work!

Car does have a turbo timer fitted (Looking inside the cabin at the dash, once the countdown of the turbo timer expires the car looks like it is off - engine shuts down, all dash lights etc turn off) - but my mechanic noticed that after some minutes the pumps, injectors etc turned back on even though the car effectively looks off. Obviously nothing was going on in the car with the ECU removed - but the auto elecs that had the unit by itself apparently could see the unit firing back up and staying on during the shutdown sequence whilst they were testing it. They could be just saying it, but from the symptoms it makes sense and they don't really have any reason to not tell me the truth (because I'm not purchasing another unit off them or getting any other work done by them). Thanks heaps for the responses guys, you've all given me heaps to think about and to check once the car gets back! I'll be super happy once she's up and running normally again!

Hi Guys, Thanks heaps for the responses. Paulr33 - The previous owner installed the PFC so I've unfortunately never had a stock ECU in the car as long as I have owned it, and the problem has been around since I purchased it (but I only noticed it happening if I didn't drive it for an extended period of time). The relay was changed, but the problem persisted - hence why the unit was pulled out and taken in for diagnostics. When Injectronics did their tests they said that the unit would start to power down and then start back up midway through the shutdown proceedure (hence why the battery was being drained as the computer starts to shut down, but then ends up keeping the fuel pump, injectors etc active). This was happening whilst the unit wasn't even in the car on Injectronics test bed (So i'm hoping *fingers crossed* that there isn't any other faults with any of the cars wiring etc that need to be addressed as well). The maps should all still be in tact. STATUS - what suburb are you located in, I might organise to bring it down for you to look at and/or do the xfer for me. I usually just disconnect the battery manually everytime I park the car - but once I get the car back I can take a better look and maybe setup the relay if all else fails.

Hi Phil, I have a lip you can have for around $80, I purchased it about 3 years ago and has been sitting against my wall ever since and is useless to me now. It looks fiberglass to me, but could be plastic (I really have no idea). It's white but will most likely need a slight tidy-up and a lick of paint. Also I have absolutely no idea how to mount it - As it is in the same condition as I bought it and that is all I received. (Pics attached). I'm in Glen Waverley (SE Melb) but can deliver or meet you somewhere if interested - pm me if interested.

Hi All, My mechanic took my R32 GTR to diagnose why my cars battery kept dying (even brand new batteries, were going dead if the car was left sitting for a few hours/days) - he identified that the ECU was the problem, so we pulled it out and sent it off to an auto elec (Injectronics in Hallam, VIC) for testing. They fired it up and everything seemed to be working fine until they tried to power down the unit - which then subsequently proceeded to cycle and start back up everytime. Unfortunately they weren't sure what was causing this fault and thus were are unable to fix the problem - so I'm left with their testing fee's and now need to purchase a new PFC + Map xfer and dyno costs. The initial unit was installed and tuned in the car when I originally bought it but I have been having the problem for a long time and regularly had to jumpstart it if it had been sitting for awhile and only today just managed to figure out what was causing the issue. So was just wondering if any of you have had any similar issues with your Power FC's? And/or how you managed to work around it? Also i'm somewhat hesitatant now to purchase another PFC as I don't want to lay out awhole bunch of cash to end up with the same problem if it is a common issue. So if you've had issues with your PFCs that aren't related to dodgey installs or tunes - let us know!