Spong

Hi spector171. Suggest you grab a big hammer and hit it hard. That'll fix it :-)

How dumb can this guy be, obviously spector121 pretending to be cookie180. Same car, same problem, same style of writing. Probably deaf in both ears also. A lost cause.......

So it's all our fault then? Where do you live? You haven't told us, and I didn't see anything in your profile. I think you've been advised to get your injectors tested multiple times, but I don't think you've taken this advice. Unless you do, I'll bet this will end up in tears.

Honestly, I don't know why, but you don't seem to be interested in listening to the advice you've been given in this forum. You're obviously well out of your depth. Your lack of gratitude for those that have helped, and inability to string a legible sentence together doesn't help. Good luck. You're going to need a lot of it.

I think you're out of your depth here. IMHO replacing the injectors on a Di engine is something you probably should leave to someone who doesn't need to ask these sorts of questions. Why not get your injectors flow tested by an expert in Di? Most of the Diesel specialists should be able to help here. Otherwise you could be replacing something that doen't need replacing, and I believe it won't be cheap based on what I was told. Are you sure the issues you're having in that cylinder aren't due to a coil pack breaking down or something different?

Are you back on the "cheap stuff" again? Scotty nm35, a well respected member here answered your same question back up there on posting #204. It refers to a faulty AFM.

I think you'll find it's a VQ25DD (the direct injected variant of the VQ25). Still doesn't make it OBD2 compliant. Based on what my local Nissan dealer told me you can use Consult 2 to gain most information (that's what they used on my VQ25DD) and Consult 3 is better.

We had our 2006 Stag with VQ25DD decarbed at 120K by our local Nissan dealer just over a year ago and it came back with an intermittent miss at idle progressing to a nasty stagger on acceleration a month or so later. It was far worse than before we took it in. It went back to them 3x times and nothing they did fixed those problems and they investigated all sorts of stuff including coil packs etc, but they were sure it was nothing they'd done. Eventually, several months later, after losing all faith in them, we took it to a specialist in modern engine problems. It didn't take long for him to find that one of the new spark plugs Nissan had fitted had a cracked insulator, and was tracking, and was obviously caused when installed. By that time, I'd had enough of the petrol bills, and the lack of expertise by the local agents, so it was sold. I'd recommend staying well clear of the 250DD and 300DD if you can. Apparently injector failures in these motors are common and expensive too - around $3K upwards.

Sounds like the cables have seized up, which I think happens sometimes back when I owned a C34. Could be a problem if the brake pads are pressing on the discs. It's certainly worth jacking it up to see if that's the case. If you were here in NZ, a 6 monthly warrant of fitness check would keep your car off the road if the parking brake failed.

Isn't that the parking brake light? Maybe the rear brake cable's binding or switch faulty?

Check your private messages as I may have some info to share. I'm in Auckland also.

Check your messages and I'll send some photos if I hear back that they could be useful.

I've got a light grey cargo cover and the cargo barrier net, both in mint condition from my 1997 Stagea but since I'm in NZ, that could be a problem? If anyone else is interested, feel free to message me.

As an electronics technician, I can say that fitting a higher wattage resistor shouldn't cause any harm, it won't pass any more current than a low wattage one. Assuming a maximum of 13.8V on one side and earth at the other, the power would only be 1.90Watts. Chances are there will be less than this in practice. Ohms law takes care of that. As an owner of an M35 direct injected VQ25DD, I'd be very interested in seeing pictures showing the connection points of the plugs/sockets involved in this mod.

I received the same email and as I have a S2 M35 I'd be interested in following up on this. I emailed andy65b at his email link at xanavi.com.au as I believe he's been the face behind the Russion programmers, to see if this was the same conversion but as yet, I haven't heard anything back from him. Does anyone else know if this is the same conversion, or another one?

This looks like the series 2 up until 2005-2006. Is the later S2 2006-2007 (with the Carwings button) software also finished?

Yeah, mine had that problem when I first set it up. Can't remember which setting it was except that it was in the Bluetooth section and I just used trial and error until I found it. I'd really like to pair my PM35 to more than one phone if possible, but haven't figured that one out yet. I've photographed the screens in that area and hope to get a translation from a friend sometime in the next few weeks.

Fantastic, all good now. I wish I could read Japanese, it'd make things much easier. I wonder how the Russian firmware deveopers are getting on with the S2 translation? Seems to be taking forever.

I managed to stuff mine up so that the screen turns off after a short time, and can't work out how to reverse this. Can you tell me how to get to the screen where brightness and the time out option is? Thanks.

Assuming you don't have a hardware problem, you can easily mate your existing remote keys to your car using the process I posted here in May 2010. It works for older and new Stagea models. See: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/322846-how-to-program-a-nissan-remotekey-for-your-stagea/page__fromsearch__1

Sounds a lot more expensive than the indicated price I was given by the previous Auckland based installer when I enquired a year to two back... I'm still waiting on the S2 M35 conversion, but probably won't be interested if it costs that much.

Isn't Gull 91 ethanol based? Maybe it's caused problems with the plastics and rubber in the path to your engine? I believe it's not recommended as safe in an RB25DE, but I could be quite wrong....

Chris Rogers suggested how to remove it in the post above yours. Didn't that work for you?

Being a direct injection motor, several people have recommended I use a synthetic oil to help reduce the inevitable carbon build up you get in the intake plenum, runners and behind the valves. If yours has done 135,000km without a strip and clean, it'll probably be pretty coked up already. Have a look just after the throttle body coupling and you'll be shocked at what you can see even back there.

No you don't need the Nav DVD, and I recommend you remove it as it "greys out" lots of unnecessary menus, hence making it easier to setup bluetooth handsfree. I've left our Nav DVD out since a week after we got the Stag, and it hasn't prevented bluetooth, fuel economy or service interval reports from working just fine.