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StevenCJR31

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Everything posted by StevenCJR31

  1. StevenCJR31
    That is possible IF the car is unlocked. . the way i have suggested removes the need for bricks or pulling off the door trim to get at the door lock
  2. StevenCJR31
    ^^^ if your replying to my post then think about it for a sec. . . bingo! chassis number is on rego papers
  3. StevenCJR31
    ^^^have taken all the above on board. . thanks for the replies guys. much appreciated
  4. StevenCJR31
    or better still take your chassis number to nissan and they can give you the key code then its five mins at the locksmith while he cuts you another one
  5. StevenCJR31
    i personally dont know of anyone who could give you an accurate answer. . suggest you try one of the many import workshops we have in Perth and see what they say
  6. StevenCJR31
    i SUSPECT i may of warped them as i use the B.L.A.T method of driving (brake late and turn) there is no aditional cooling for the brakes. . hence why im leaning towards (say) r34 brakes as they are thicker and wider . . im just looking at the easiest option and availability
  7. StevenCJR31
    dont assume, know anyone else who has a 26?
  8. StevenCJR31
    is the correct dipstick in the motor?
  9. StevenCJR31
    ^^^IF this doesnt work out can the r34 hub etc be bolted into the r32 front without issues?have seen some cheap 34 hubs on ebay
  10. StevenCJR31
    ^^^thats real helpfull. . . . . . liam get back under the car and check that EVERYTHING is hooked up and plugged in
  11. StevenCJR31
    if its still in the 33 and running then suggest you get a compression test done. . it wont tell you everything bout the motor but its a good indicator
  12. StevenCJR31
    if its still in the 33 and running then suggest you get a compression test done. . it wont tell you everything bout the motor but its a good indicator
  13. StevenCJR31
    once again, thanku for the info, the rotors that are on the front have been skimmed once before by the guy that i got them off so there may or may not be enough thickness left in them but i have some roads (industrial area nearby) so i will give that a crack later
  14. StevenCJR31
    Thanks v much for the info! i changed to 33 front brakes a while ago (secondhand) but the front shudders under brakes (annoying) hence why i was looking at something else, i dont mind paying $$ for a good setup for the car but the $1800 setup is out of my league and may not be necessary for a street car. . .thanks for the advice mate
  15. StevenCJR31
    hi. looking at fitting the biggest factory size brakes that i can fit on my gtst. any suggestions as to what will fit on the standard hubs? i was thinking along the lines of series 2 r34 rotors/calipers f&r?? (thoughts?)like most on here i would like brembo but they are wayy out of my price range
  16. StevenCJR31
    shame the 26 heads costs so much (at least the ones ive seen fs) otherwise that would be a good option
  17. StevenCJR31
    what about the 26 head? do all the water and oil holes line up with the 30 bottom end?
  18. StevenCJR31
    fuseable link runs off the battery lead. . . check there
  19. StevenCJR31
    if you use the R32 RB25DE head then you will need to use the matching intake manifold
  20. StevenCJR31
    YES, you need the lifters
  21. StevenCJR31
    This works very well, ive done it many times and it will suprise you how much shite comes out with the diesel
  22. StevenCJR31
    new cams amd old lifters are a very bad idea.ALWAYS use new lifters with a new/ reground cams
  23. StevenCJR31
    if its not that then keep trying other similar things, 31s are getting old now and most of them have had the tits revved out of them by p platers and messed around with a lot
  24. StevenCJR31
    how is the ignition coil? if its the original it maybe past its use by date
  25. StevenCJR31
    use the jatco 3N71B. . plenty out there and shift kits available etc
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