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StevenCJR31

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Everything posted by StevenCJR31

  1. A VK56 in a 34 Gtt-t would be a better proposition( lighter all alloy engine?) no headaches trying to get the GTR 4WD working
  2. Replace broken mount and see if that fixes your problems. . . .
  3. use R32 stuff, you have a better chance of it fitting than using RB30E gear and the tailshaft splines are different between auto and manual so you NEED a manual tailshaft
  4. get the car over here and then take it back to standard which will make it heaps easier to get passed/through rego, our laws here arent as easy going as NZ, once passed you SHOULD be able to mildly mod it if not too over the top(ie NO SCREAMER pipe)
  5. the dyno will sort out all this for you, post up your results when ya get them
  6. ^^^^ same, look forward to reading thru all the above
  7. good seller, honest and trustworthy, thanks mate

  8. ^^^this is where it will be coming from, replace both rocker cover gaskets including the half moon seals and that will fix it
  9. Hi guys, i picked up some of this paint (VHT) from the local auto one store and you are right! its a bitch too apply evenly, i applied it to one rocker cover and it come out like its supposed to the other one not so great, according to the instructions on the can the paint has a low temp tolerance 177 C but can be baked in a low oven
  10. Hi guys, what the deal with Wrinkle (or is it crinkle? Ha!) paint on rocker covers etc on skylines? is it a special paint or ordinary paint applied differently?Btw tried search but could find SFA
  11. Ha! i like the dented sump! ive lined up a ASR baffled/deep sump for the 25/30 . . . along with that and some oil restrictors for the head i SHOULD be able to fang the car around without starving the bearings of oil . . . .
  12. i paid $900 for the S1 25DET (ks unknown)with auto/ECU/AFM, BUT it was missing the wiring loom/coil packs etc, no biggy as im going to use new after market coils (and new O2 sensor)and use the 32 wiring loom, sticking with the NISTUNE ecu as my car is auto and in about a years time i will drop in a 25/30 as ive got a 25 head modded and ready for my rebuilt 30 bottom end, i would put it in now but dont have the $$$ to buy the bigger injectors and turbo etc i will need for this
  13. is the water drain/feed hoses clear of any crud? sounds like you dont have any flow and the turbo itself is that blocked or you can run water thru it?
  14. thought that might be the case . . .throttle linkage on the 25 looks very different to the 20 . . . did the 33 cable go straight onto the 32 pedal or needed a bit of persuading? will hit up my local nissan guy for a price on the 33 cable, it MAY not cost me my left nut!keep the above info coming guys MUCH appreciated, i want to get this conversion right. . ^^^ well done on the quick turn around on your swap
  15. im not keen on an adaptor so i might go a different way with mine . . .seeing as i gotta pull my heater core out anyway i can get larger inlet / outlets welded onto the new (or reco) tanks , that way when i win lotto and replace all the hoses i can get a complete kit for a S1 R33 RB25DET, very very unlikely that the 20 will go back in
  16. Hose sizes are different? bugger. . . i got myself a bunky 20DET for parts and was hoping to use the heater hoses off that ,once ive replaced the heater core(dash out job from what ive read )
  17. i cooked it,Have you seen the amount of hoses running under the intake manifold!? the previous owner had done a bypass on the heater hoses (heater core had let go)and it was one of those that split and dropped all my coolant out, i was busy (ahem)racing with a WRX at the time and didnt see the temp gauge go up to "H" before i shut it down. . . . .i reckon the rings have lost their tension as once i fixed it all and went down the road in the car as soon as the engine was at running temp (id changed the oil)i was leaving a blue smoke screen behind me that looked like something outta summernats. . .(the engine wasnt blowing any smoke before that)thanks for the heads up regarding the TPS , not sure whats been programmed into the 20 ECU (been told its a 25 map)regarding sensors n stuff as i got the NISTUNED ecu secondhand but will get a workshop here in Perth to check it all (including AFRs) once i swap out motors
  18. Hi, finally killed my 20DET in my R32 and now going to put in a RB25 out of a S1 R33 as a replacement,(going to a 25/30 later) using a nistuned 20 ECU/my existing loom (already have engine/ecu laying around from other projects)and independant VCT controller to run the 25, my question is has anybody reading this has done this conversion and what headaches/ problems did you have with this conversion?i know i will have to change injector plugs (mine are crispy anyway)and that the 25 injectors are different impedence . .. . . have i missed anything?any good suggestions appreciated
  19. I would go with what your mechanic says, sounds like clearences are too big and the motor quietens down when the oil has taken up those clearences. . . time for a rebuild
  20. Are your injectors top feed? if so then you will find that R32 RB20det will fit and R32 RB25de injectors will fit,. . . stock R33 RB25DET injectors are SIDE feed and unlikely to go on your stock intake manifold without a fight
  21. You can take the manifold off and get a pipe welded in place (any ally fabricator)and a bead welded on the end to stop the hoses blowing off, i did this with my 20DET to get rid of the adaptor that steps the hose to a smaller diameter, didnt cost much and it works fine
  22. a reasonable low K R34 auto SEDAN will cost you around $9000 and have seen manual conversions on ebey (with all the hardware) for around $2500
  23. with regards to your leaking sunroof, have you considered removing the glass/winding mechanism etc and replacing it with (slightly curved)perpex, any capable windscreen place should be able to do it
  24. Kudos motorsports have new 02 sensors for RB20DET ($77) so dont worry bout cleaning old sensor
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