StevenCJR31

do you know if there is a tutorial to do this ^^ at home?

are there rubber bungs in the floorpan? if so then try to pop them out to help with the drying

suggest you be gentle with the 20 box, ie dont side step off the clutch, until you have a good 25 box on your hands

SOLD!

^^^^ exactly . . . if you drive like a dick, have oversize wings on the bootlid and a LOUD "look at me" exhaust then expect to draw the wrong attention

a few years ago i was gunna chuck one of these 5 speed boxes behind my S3 RB30E R31, but was told there might be wiring issues as well

i will be ordering a FF intake from Vulture Motorsport soon, takes standard TB (R33)and is available in Aus for a reasonable price, same intake gasket part number for R33/R34 so it SHOULD physically fit a NEO motor but may have other fitment issues on R34

welcome to the world as it is. . . . how its been . . . .and will be

and who knows what ratio 5th runs at?it may run at the same revs as a 4 speed at 100 kph therefore no gain in the 5 speed

ive been told by an engine importer that the 5 speed is weaker because its for NA and the innards of the trans are smaller to fit in the same basic housing as the 4 speed

Wider is far better than thicker

jeez i wouldve painted them calipers on the car. . . . sounds like you have an airlock in the lines, does the ABS have bleeder screws on them? if so maybe bleed that first and then the brakes in sequence

suggest that a vented bonnet might help get the hot air out, do you have a mate you could borrow one off and test on the track?

maybe a dab of grease on the drive at the back of the CAS

ive always been told not to lay them down as it f@#ks them, i just stand them up at the same angle as they sit on the motor

KA25E? hmmm didnt know about that motor,Thought there was only a KA24E , as used in the states (200SX?)but often replaced by a SR20DET either way there wouldnt be room in the engine bay of a corsair for a transverse mounted RB25 . . too long

sounds like your mate is very confused . . . a FWD CA20E is Very different to a RWD/AWD RB. . . the CA was a small port/SOHC cam motor that was more suitable for taking nanna to her lawn bowls and not much else

have you tried NISSAN spare parts?

Seen a repair done like this on MONSTER GARAGE, nice dent in a panel that the panel beater couldnt get access to from behind so he tack welded 6 or so (what looked like rivets) metal spikes and clamped onto them with a slide hammer and pulled out the dent, he then cut off the rivets with an angle grinder and only needed to apply a thin SKIM of body filler to get the panel looking straight again, for an enduring repair i would suggest spraying fish oil on the inside of any panel repaired in this way (or a cut n shut)

Buyer has let me down, he has lost his deposit, container now back up for sale . . . now for sale for $2500 (for quick sale)or best offer, same contact number as above, container to be shifted at buyers expense

look on ebay, plenty of businesses selling RDA rotors for a good price for 33s

wait till your off your P plates and buy a (factory) turbo car . . . . easiest/cheapest/quickest way of doing things

imo i think its not a good idea to drive the car if the turbo is rooted, especially if the impellor is touching the housing

had trouble with a long wait for parts to arrive at a certain nissan dealership on the northside of perth, when it did arrive it was the incorrect part and they refused to do anything about it . . now the only people i use for genuine parts is DVG in bassendean- good service and good prices even for imports (as long as you bring in the chassis number when ordering)

ya bloody hoon!