StevenCJR31

Sounds like a dead voltage regulator. . .

ah . . . not much point in asking about turbo engines then eh?

yep, the half cut could be the way to go . . you then have a motor designed for boost and (if fitted by a mechanic) a warranty. . . . do your maths first , as others will tell you, its cheaper to buy a turbo powered car in the first place . . . i paid 3k for my 32GTS-t with mildly modded RB20DET, quick enough to get you into trouble real easy

im thinking the best/easiest/cheapest upgrade for you would be to throw on R33 brake calipers/rotors/5stud hubs etc, that would open up a whole lot of wheel options for you as well, the 31 stuff taint the best especially the handbrake setup

do your homework re price but you might find it cheaper to buy a COMPLETE RB25DET and go from there

Hi i know its a LOOONG shot but im chasing an injected NISSAN/DATSUN L18 engine with wiring loom/ecu/afm etc(or even just the head with the afor mentioned), i know theyve been out of production for a long time but im hoping that someone reading this has one or knows of someone who has one please?

loose heat shield maybe?

you wont notice any change in the oil level as the oil is polluted (topped up) by petrol. . .therefore replacing any missing oil, engines burn oil by design as oil sitting in the cross hatch of the bore gets pushed up into the combustion chamber (microscopic amounts) by the piston and burnt on the combustion stroke

The guy is a dumbarse for carrying a gas bottle in an enclosed vehicle, thats just asking for trouble

ALL engines burn oil. . no matter how good they are or wether they are turbo or otherwise, just some use more than others

are the K&N panel filter a dry filter or oiled?

Thanks Joel

is there a right/wrong way to do this? or just a matter of taking out the bolts and rotating the assembly in to the correct position and putting the bolts back in? sorry for the noob question but i havnt attempted this before

only the brave or very skilled take on the removal of broken studs, you can do more harm than good if your not carefull, suggest you take it to an exhaust workshop as they would deal with these on a daily basis

had a related problem with a truck im driving . . .it turned out a male to female connector was burnt out pretty badly but still passing electricity thru for a few mins before the fuse would blow, hard to find as the connectors were inside a large white plug and not seen from the outside, maybe you need to go thru your wiring loom leading to the headlight and see if you have the same problem?

Howdy, i have a S3 auto R31 sedan (RB30E) for which ive bought a complete VLT setup, ie exhaust manifold, T3 turbo/lines ,S3 NISTUNE ecu, VLT injectors etc, i got it knowing there was a fair bit of freeplay in the turbo shaft, im asking opinions on the following two options . . . #1 get the T3 reconditioned with new bearings (approx cost?) . . .#2 i have a reconditioned VG30DET turbo sitting there not being used BUT the position of the oil/water feed/return lines are in the wrong place, can the turbo be "clocked"(is it even possible?)or is it not worth the effort? any constructive comments welcome

. . . and keep oxygen out of the system

filters are a very good idea after a cooling system flush, any sediment sitting in the blocks water jackets is now loosened up and is just waiting to block the tubes in the radiator,the filter i use is conical shaped and would take a lot of crud to cause any restriction

vulture motorsports has intakes specifically for the R33 and an adaptor to refit the stock TB if you want to

My turn to wade into the discussion!The low reving V8 will probably outlast the RB as the RB has to work harder to make the same power, but the RB will be using less fuel in day to day driving, i like V8s but give me a RB everytime!

^ as above . . . ive used an easy out before then the bastard broke off in the last stud in the head , there was no way i was able to drill it out , get a profesional to do the job for you

it could be a blocked radiator but you you can create an artificial high point in your cooling system by running your car up on some car ramps ?

Plus 1 on the possibility of broken stud(s), RB engines are famous for it and they break/snap on run of the mill RB30E, suggest you take it to a workshop if you are unsure

You have checked all your wiring and connectors? sounds like "loose wire syndrome"have heard of wiring being a tad short and only failing when under the stresses of racing (ie body flex)