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Still looking. Preferably with all piping, clamps and hose joints. Anyone interstate, please state the posting price as well.

Just popped into Midas today and they said they don't do 3" ones.

Nothing more than just being a tight arse by wanting to avoid paying more for new tyres when the time comes as 16" ones are still cheaper than 18", though I agree with all that the chromies look lots more sick than stockies. Wanting black spoked ones as another choice, but not too many around and too tight-arsed to pay for new ones.

Yup, the standard dark grey S1 grille that slots right into the grille holes.

I may have one for you as I'm thinking of selling the one I have now due to fitting on a new bodykit soon and the front bar doesn't go well with the standard grille, therefore will need to remove it. I'll let you know once I get it out.

I also read somewhere that the front of the car needs to be jacked up before installing the strut brace. Can anyone confirm this?

Hi all. I'm after 2 3" catback gaskets. If anyone has spare ones or know where to get them, please do let me know.

I know this is a 4 year old thread. But is this for the front or rear? Cause I'm kind of confused by the master cylinder stopper.

Hi all. I'm after a stock R34 intercooler, preferably with all the piping, clamps and stuff. Preferably in Melbourne.

Hi guys. Yet another question from me. I've read up a little about steps in modding up a R33 and came across this site http://justskylines.com/knowledgebase/tuni...e_stage1_2.aspx. This site mentioned about fitting a R34 intercooler as a cheaper option for power increases up till 200rwkw without the need for a FMIC. I'm running a fmic at the moment, but because it has sort of corroded up quite an amount and thinking of changing it, I'm looking for other options other than just replacing it. If the R34 stock intercooler is confirmed to be an equally good but cheaper alternative, I might go for that. Can anyone please help me confirm if a stock R34 intercooler works out just as well as claimed by the author of the site?

Sweet, thanks. Another question. My windscreen seal is popping out badly and I'm looking into getting it replaced. No leaks through the sides of the windscreen, though. Can anyone recommend a place that does a proper replacement for windscreen seals? Also, is there supposed to be a rubber seal between the plastic panel and the windscreen wipers for a series 1? Cause mine doesn't.

Hi guys. Just a quick question. I've got 18" chromies on my series 1, but wish to downgrade to the standard 16" rims. Yeah, I know it sounds gay to downgrade the rims, but abuse aside, my question is will I need to worry about offsets or I'll just chuck them straight on since they're standard ones?

strut brace still around?

Any pictures of the brace?

I see. Sort of get a rough picture of why you all say that squeezing extra power involves much more than just a simple mod to the air filter and exhaust. The air filter and exhaust are probably just the bare minimum, imo. More like setting up for the steps that follow on.

Sort of get it now. For eg, if i were to set the high boost at 12psi on the controller, what it does is to trick the actuator into keeping closed until boost pressure reaches 12psi and then the controller will do as what paulr33 describes as "tell the actuator to open" and the actuator will open up the wastegate to regulate the pressure. Or else, without the controller, the actuator will always open up at 7psi and boost pressure can't go up anymore. The controller does the same thing for any boost setting. Is my understanding right? Please correct me if wrong anywhere. Also, if the actuator will always open up at 7psi without the use of a controller, then why do most of you guys use an aftermarket ecu other than rearranging the fuel map for tuning?

What does the actuator do? Can't get a clear explanation from google.

Need some help here. I noticed that whenever it rains, the area between my headlights and the plastic front cover will be wet as. The headlights covers were cleaned a month before, but they're now a little foggy again. This normal or some part of the sealing between the covers needs re-doing? The lens and bulbs are not affected but just thinking that there must be an empty gap somewhere cause a small moth just flew into the left headlight and died there last week and when I got out of my car in the morning at work, I saw it and was amused at how it managed to squeeze its way through. It's still there though.

Looks like I'll have to rip the stock exhaust out and put back the bigger one that came with the car. Has a massive 5 inch tip (not sure about the catback size), but thought of keeping the stock on in case cops try to be funny and pull me over for doing 55 on a 60 limit road. Thanks for the info!

My boost gauge is similar to the one in the attached image. So I reckon that I'm safe to say that once the needle passes 0, the turbo is boosting up while anywhere before the 0 mark would be a normal vacuum reading?

My boost gauge is similar to the one in the attached image. So I reckon that I'm safe to say that once the needle passes 0, the turbo is boosting up while anywhere before the 0 mark would be a normal vacuum reading?

Wow... great deal of info. Gives me a good starting point to continue learning more about turbo cars. R3N3, you're right. Mine's a S1 R33. Car's running on stock boost currently, but not intending to do any mods until I can understand more. Thanks, paulr33. You do know your stuff. Another question. If I were to set it up to run at high boost all the time, does it mean that I will run at 7psi whether below or above 4500rpm?

Hi all. Just like to ask a silly question. What do you guys mean by a low boost and high boost? Does it refer to boost at low and high rpm respectively or something else? Sorry for the question. First time dealing with a turbo car and in the early learning stages.

How much for postage to melbourne for the DIN?