Zorro

Bump Also Bridestone Potenza RE01 245/40/18 x2 50% $100 pair

ROH fury 18x8 +35 114.3mm 5 stud, set of 4 (with camber worn 235/40) $750 T3 split dump (rb25det - about 3000km old) $100 King Springs 'low' for R33 gtst (only about 3000km old, still in car - going coilover so no longer needed) $50 RB25DET NVCS Head complete in very good condition (passed all tests) $750 Coilpacks RB25DET R33 $100 Generic Cannon 2.5" muffler $25 RB25DET R33 "lewis engines" RACE sump (almost brand new) $250 Nismo Rear camber arms to suit R32, S13 $100 R32 GTR calipers front & rear $500 HKS Turbo Timer $25 Speco Boost gauge $10 FMIC 600x300x75 (brand new) $150 Adj Fuel reg, with gauge (for injection) $50 Mental custom Go-Kart 2003 PCR clubman CroMo frame, Yamaha YZ490 490cc two-stroke 5-speed, engine (~60hp), superkart 4spot billet caliper & vented brake, 40mm axle, custom high back seat, etc.... lots of parts included, project almost complete, needs only a few things to be drivable. Very regrettable sale, $$$$ spent; go on finish the Monster & scare yourself silly!!! $3000ono Heaps of R31 parts for sale also (listed on r31 skyline club) Location: Adelaide Contact: PM or ph: 0403961329

yep gtr (or gtst) front will fit & r33 gtst rear will fit with a bit of work (rear top hats are different)! As for spring and shock rates, if you are using adj coilovers then it wont be a problem, but stock items wont be perfect, but are still quite usable! * only the factory fitted manuals (ie: 260rs & rs4s) use the gtr style rear fork!

You can run any width or offset you like & it wont upset the ATTESA at all! Its changing the rolling diameter front to rear that causes the problem.

sorry guys cant make the friday, plus not sure if mine will be back on the road in time anyway, as it looks like i might have cracked the head! :'(

wow ok im surprised you fitted that size wheel that easily, maybe there is a slight difference between s1 & s2?

quoting Big Fella: "I'm running 18 x 10 +15s all round, the fronts sit just in the gaurd, and ther rear would hang out with standard camber, running 2.2' seems all good tho" is your auto or manual? how far did you have to pump your gaurds? what size tyres are you using? also what does 2.2 foot refer too?

235/40/18 is not that far off stock! I was using that size till recently, speedo was not out by much at all (<5kmh @ 100)! ~630mm (+- 3mm) rolling dia is roughly the stock size, 235/40/18 is 645mm (225/40 = 637mm), im now using 245/40/18 which is 653mm & is only slightly out, showing a lower speed on the speedo to actual velocity! So dont stress too much!

S1 - 18x9.5 +14 245/40. The front just fits, but the rears are as close to the strut as you can get & are scrubbing pretty hard on the "heavily" rolled guards! (anyone who says they have bigger no worries, is full of it!) * So a 18x9 +15 to +20 235/40 would be a pretty neat fit!

I use about 16L per 100km of 98º, driving up & down the freeway everyday! I might be able to get below 14L if i grandma'd it, or over 20L if i didnt! (series 1, full zorst, fmic, pod, afr, evc, 12psi) Just accept it as part of owning a cool car, meh its only money, gotta spend it on something, might as well enjoy it! Oh i save about a litre or two per hundred on 6psi (only a couple of bucks, so i just wind it up & smile)!

spotted a nice blue c34 on cross rd tonight!

No your right, its not; that was 5095N!

Here is a little somthing to wet the appetite: VH45DETT blast

its ok figured it out! H3C!

Ok im trying to get my series 1 stagea fog lights to work, and noticed there are no globes in place (but i did find the wires)! My question is, what are these globes? H7?

Yes your right, there are alot of variables to consider! As for my setup, series1,full 3" ex, pod, HKS evc4 & afr (~12:1), on BP98! Im running 235/45/18 worn factory rubber, on lighter rims! Dyno'd in 2nd in snow mode & locked torque split mode on a very honest 4wd dyno! 25ºC 46% humidity and it was a high pressure sytem at the time so maybe 1005ish hpa, also late arvo near sea level........... anyway i was making a bit of a point, that comparing numbers to argue an engine being either good or bad, is hardly fair (as you stated yourself)! Im all for the VH45, i reckon it would be an awseome engine to put into a stag, that being said, i quite like the VQ and even VG motors, heck almost anything Nissan is good! It would certainly be quite a unique stagea atleast!

Dont Forget the VzH35DETT that went into the MONSTER that was the R92cp, with over 1200hp!

So, my almost stock RB25DET is making 555nm on 8psi! Put a TT setup on the VH and >1000nm is possible!

Do it! Then Twin Turbo it!!! >

Well mine was detonating at 10psi with std smic, so be careful! Get a bigger IC before up'ing the boost & then, 12ish is pushing the ceramic blades fairly hard!

Well i havent found any yet, but am looking into mattys offer, but have also found some RAYS nuts that might, just waiting on confirmation, before throwing a few hundred at nuts that dont fit again!

ok well a big crack in the exhaust mani has opened up, could that cause a severe miss under load? (or is it coincidental?) I can rev the engine in P or N and it wont miss, i can slowly bring the engine up to high rpm without it missing, but as soon as i load it up, open up the throttle or get any boost above 5psi its starts to miss, stutter & carry on!

Has anyone successfully installed a HKS SLD into their AWD stagea (series 1 rsfourv), if so which model of SLD did you use & what pin settings did you use? *I attempted to fit a type-1 using sn-1 setting & no luck!

Ok so i was giving it abit and now it has a big miss under boost! Any ideas what it could be? It is still making the same boost as before the problem (11psi), but its a pretty consistant miss & is losing alot of power & wont pull past 5 now! Coil pack, plug, gasket, injector, pump...........???????????

Ive seen the engine, ive seen the dyno sheet, no word of a lie, this is one sweet as engine & if i had the cash it would be under my hood right now!