jiffo

Obvious first question, are you using the top cam belt cover or is it left open? If left open did you pack out the CAS from the bracket, the same distance as the cover?

Probably "Blend".

Don't forget to bolt a bracket across the bell housing to hold the torque convertor on.

Doubt they're referring to the hand commander or the car's instruments, I'd guess they're having a datalogit problem. Maybe wrong coloured box for that ecu?

Look at your chassis plate. This is from a GTR with 4.1 ratio, I think you'd be 4.3.

Couple of things, Are you dead set sure you have the pistons you ordered? Wouldn't be the first time wrong pistons have been supplied. Decking the block and skimming the head will have the effect of retarding cam timing, BOTH cams so time for the degree wheel. Adjustable exhaust cam is easy but you'll have to consider the inlet cam too. From memory the stock VVT unit has adjustment on the rear, bit of a mission to alter but is do-able. Really depends on how the numbers come out when you check.

Think you'll have to put your name on the list at JPNZ for a CD version.

Considering the establishment that diagnosed this problem, it would be worth reading up on how to change spark plugs and clean existing coil packs too. You may find the coil packs aren't the problem, might be crook plugs, excessive plug gap, too much degreaser and so on.

What's the voltage to the battery when the car is at approx. 2500-3000rpm?

6-seconds isn't much time ……. I'm thinking like spigot bearing.

http://justjap.com/genuine-nissan-clutch-hose-assembly-nissan-skyline-bnr32.html OR http://justjap.com/nismo-steel-braided-clutch-hose-nissan-skyline-bnr32-push-type.html

At the relatively low oil change mileage these cars have, any semi synthetic will be fine.

Probably a combination of clogged fuel filter and worn fuel pump. Pump will be running at low voltage under start conditions, may not be sufficient to pump fuel through the blocked filter?

Another one. These cars were write-offs due to flood damage but the fact this company had those extended fork tynes, suitable for end-on approach is concerning. Obviously not the first time he's handled cars that way.

Here's an R32 Rb20det box. Think they're called an FS5W71C.

You need to do more research. I'd say the drive pinion has the wrong tooth count, something for you to check. You can't just buy any GTSt instrument cluster as there's at least 2-variations through the years. You'll need to verify your model car and buy the one that suits. 25kph wrong is a biggie. Are you sure the previous owner didn't remove the needles and replace them incorrectly. (the white faced dial syndrome)

As there's no fluid on the garage floor it points to a master cylinder problem. They don't usually leak inside the car as the booster separates at the firewall. Probably leaking passed the internal seals. Then it will operate as normal some of the time but slowly leak when held under load.

Do you care about this engine at all or is she a junker? If you keep running it, it will die. Metal in the oil was an SOS. Think how difficult it will be to ensure all metal particles are removed, if you intend to repair this engine.

That's a bog stock 32 GTR, still a lot more crowded than a GTSt. In a GTSt, the FMIC will mount ahead of the aircon condenser.

Here's some photos from my 32. The ambient air temp is that cad. plated box and may not be exactly as this one is due to the fitment of a magnificent horn. The thermo fan can also be seen. Filter/dryer is attached to the condenser. High and low pressure fittings at firewall. These are going to cause you a headache as yours were left open to atmosphere. Suggest you have a talk to an aircon. specialist to see if they can flush your evaporator. Explain your situation, it's bound to have happened previously. In fact I gave a mate an under-dash aircon unit for his Statesman way back when. Unit had been kicking around in the dirt for years yet he installed it and the experts made it run fine. Your electricals will pose problems if they've been hacked off. You may have to strip back the various harnesses to find the remnants of circuits.

As has been pointed out, that second layout is no good. But using that layout got your idle down to 800, so it shows the car is capable of a normal idle and the AAC looks suspect. The factory idle circuit has the air pipe running to a tee with one leg of the tee going to the AAC and the other leg going to the air reg, and from there to the plenum. So when the air reg closes, the AAC still has an air supply. For simplicity I'd remove the air reg. Your brake booster vacuum should come from a separate nipple.

So you're saying the evaporator is still in position. Did previous owner seal the high/low pressure fittings at the firewall? This is vital or contaminants will have entered the system and you'd be spending a lot of time and effort on a blocked TX valve as a minimum. The engine bay components are the compressor, condenser/filter dryer and the connecting pipework. There should also be a thermo fan in front of the left side radiator. None of this is much use though, without the electricals. Hope previous owner left all that intact. Mounted on the bonnet latch strut should be the ambient air temp. sensor. In one heater pipe at the firewall should be the coolant temp sensor. Inside the car on top of the dash should be the sunload sensor. If the evaporator is untouched its sensors will still be there. It's a complicated system. Best chance is to find the complete setup from a 32 half cut.

No photos posted on what's already in the car so how can anyone give correct advice. For all we know it might only need a compressor but then again the whole evaporator unit may be missing. If the evaporator is there, perhaps it's rooted and could be a reason the previous owner ditched the aircon . Too many unknowns.

If it was mine I'd be removing the cold start (air reg) completely. The AAC can control idle fine. The air reg will eventually close even without electrical power, just from engine bay heat but who needs more plumbing. You need to close that TB right down. It's only cracked open the smallest amount to stop any chance of jamming due to temp changes. Idle is controlled via the AAC not the TB.

From Terry's info, I wouldn't be interested in that method of container shipment, way too many things to go wrong. I'd presumed (obviously incorrectly) that the cars were loaded and secured onto an RHS frame, 2-cars high and then the frame was pushed into the open end of the container. Frame then secured to container and doors sealed. Containers get rough treatment, far rougher than driving a car on/off the ship. Must be thousands of these on youtube>