jiffo

Terry I've got photos somewhere of old mates transporting brand new FJ Holdens to the N.T. They'd put 2-carpenter's planks through the opened windows and lift the cars up on top of their load with a primitive crane. Can't imagine how they got them off, would have been just as interesting.

From my experience with equipment found at wharf facilities, their forks would do no damage to chassis rails. A fork that can hump a 20t container is big gear with massive tynes that offer a huge area to spread the load, far greater than say, a tyre changing shop's air operated jacking equipment. But once the car is shipped off to a road transport company, the size of the fork drops dramatically and these are the machines that might damage rails. (especially if the rails were suspect to start with) Car haulage companies aren't keen on cars like Skylines which don't have the front bar clearance to clamber up their ramps so they often get forked onto the single vehicle spot above the cab. You can be lucky, your car may still have the wedges in the front coils. These raise the car's front eliminating problems for the drivers shuffling vehicles to/from the ship.

Interesting project. Do you use any of the ATTESSA functions or just lock into constant AWD. If not perhaps a Patrol box is another option. Some more photos> http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/320841-ford-focus-cosworth-r32-gearbox.html

At the other end of the scale... I can buy a set of trailer axles, backing plates, brakes, springs and so on and build a tandem car trailer. Get a weigh bridge docket for the tare, fill out the various "home built" forms for the VIN plate and have a registered trailer on the road. The backing plate brackets are flame cut from 12mm mild steel plate and one welds them to the axle with no pre or post heat treatment. Could have around 3t rolling down the road on the back of the 4X at up to 100kph.

For that hp GTR-Joey is on the money, but with your new coil packs I'd go for 1.0mm and see how she performs. Check the shop actually sells you the BCPR plugs. Often they'll offer BKR which is the same plug but built to ISO standards and protrudes 2.5mm shorter. With them you need to give the spring conductor on the coil pack a bit of a tug to ensure it reaches the tip of the plug. Grab some nickel thread anti-seize and apply a match head dob to the thread of each plug. Tighten the plugs to the correct torque. Too loose and you'll see carbon up the threads of your old plugs. (the most common cause for stripping plug threads in alloy heads) Blow the valley area clean with compressed air before you start removing things. Remove/re-fit spark plugs one at a time. So easy to drop an item down an open plug hole and suddenly that 5-minute job becomes very expensive.

Difficult to offer correct advice unless you supply full engine details. Generally speaking, you should run the max gap possible and for a stock engine with decent coil packs that's 1.1mm. Likewise heat range would be 5 or 6 for a standard engine. Once power is increased, you may find ageing coil packs can't keep up with the increased combustion pressures and the easy fix is to reduce plug gap. Wouldn't suggest less than 0.8mm. If it takes a really close plug gap to avoid blowing out the spark you should be looking to new coil packs. Heat range usually alters a range per 100hp increase over stock and it's pretty easy to have a 200hp increase. Cold starts could become an issue with very high heat range plugs. Make sure your IGN timing is correct while you're at it.

Series 1 R33 with Blitz cooler using the stock pipes through the bodywork. Small amount of front bar grinder work required, nothing dramatic. Have a mate hold the bar while you mark, cut and test try. Suggest you double clamp all the silicon hoses, bit of a mission to get at some in the future. Use 8mm??x ¼" drive socket to tighten them, not a screw driver. Mount the cross over hose clamps such that you can access then from below but angled slightly to give max road clearance. You will hit the cross over pipe on big speed bumps or poorly designed driveways and then that driver's side silicon joiner and clamps are susceptible to damage.

I'd be checking universals.

Something to consider is that with cold engine temp, high viscosity oil and a high flowing oil pump, not just the oil pump relief valve opens, the oil filter bypass valve would be well open too = no filtration. It's a delicate balance selecting the correct oil once one begins modifications to pump, bearing tolerances and so on.

Cal from memory the 25's VVT is activated through to around 4700rpm, then is switched off. It's primarily designed for easier starting and then a "normal" driving range. As you've got Poncams, I'd suggest the tuner will have raised the cut off point to around 6000? In your situation, from around idle to 6000 could be similarly accomplished with a solid advance of the inlet cam. So unplugging the VVT solenoid would certainly make your setup feel lazy.

You've changed the story, so now only one side at fault??? I'd be looking at burnt contacts in the high/low dip switch, not the rotary headlight switch on the dash surround.

It does sound like the headlight switch but the fact you were able to flash high doesn't follow. It should also have not worked, might have been a fluke??? As these cars run separate left and right circuits, for both to fail means the fault is upstream of the usual problem (the dipper switch) thus it points to the rotary headlight switch on the dash surround. But the poor headlight wiring design really needs attention. Extra relays need fitting to eliminate the high amperage loads on the dip switch and the rotary switch, not to mention the wiring. Install a diode so low stays on with high. You'll be surprised how much better the lights are when they get full battery voltage.

Start with basics. Pull off the cam belt top cover, rotate the crank to TDC on the balancer and check the cam wheel dots against their corresponding marks on the back cover. If they're a mile out, rotate the crank another rev and then see how things line up. (There's no need to mark the belt, Mr Nissan kindly provided timing marks) Once you've proven the cam timing is correct, assemble the cover and fit the CAS centrally in its adjustment slots. Kick her up and then check static timing with the timing light. If the cam timing is incorrect, you've got some work to re-do.

Untuned Fc or stock ecu……….take the stock ecu every time.

From my experience, the Rb26 base maps are pretty sad, certainly not for driving about as-is. Whereas the Rb25det maps, not as bad.

R32 GTR runs 10psi actuators standard, which means the MIN boost to open the gates is 10psi. Doesn't matter what setting a boost controller has, so unless the gates are powered by an external air supply the min they'll open at is 10psi. I'd be looking at tune, do a data re-init and start again. I'd check the opening pressure of your actuators too, might have some dodgy actuators fitted.

The fact you've had to do this for years points to the fuel pump not in the best condition. Might be time for a replacement. The ecu times out the pump after approx. 5 seconds. Nothing to do with a pressure switch or such but the system should hold fuel, not drain back to the tank necessitating those ON/OFFs of the IGN in order to start. I'd also replace the fuel filter. With your recent move to the country you could have scored the local special brew, 50% water.

Alternator will kill battery if a diode is cactus or if the reg is faulty. Auto sparky will soon tell you. Chris is wondering about the alarm. (as am I) Most alarms will trigger once the car's battery is removed from the circuit. All my machinery has a breaker similar to yours right at their batteries. First item from the battery is the breaker. No alarms of course but my battery life has been extended miraculously by removing any chance of drain.

You need to give a lot more info but it does sound that perhaps the box is still in mesh with the previous gear and has then also selected reverse. Interlocks normally stop this from happening.

If I'm missing something fell free to correct me, but are you planning on re-drilling your 120PCD hubs to 114.3, (thus having 10-holes in the hub), or do you have blank hubs that you're setting up for the Skyline wheels?

Just post a picture of your charging valves, that will answer your questions.

In these metric days we forget the origins of many measurements, hence the 4.5" reference.

Wheels mount on the centreing spigot, studs simply hold wheel onto hub, spigot does the work. Studs are set out using an indexing head. PCD is 114.3 (4.5")

If a car doesn't have the extender and you particularly want it, you have to buy the the whole show, retractor mechanism etc. They're available from wrecked/parted out cars and are not expensive. The extender locks into positions at 90 degrees, straight up/down or pointing to the front. Straight up/down should be what you're after.

The silver resister box is the resistor for the air reg. Air reg will close from engine bay heat anyway. The plugs under the steering column, where you're holding one wire, I'm guessing you've got a turbo timer loom there. If so I'd chuck the turbo timer and associated plug-in-loom, then things will look much better.