jiffo

They're sewn in with the belt end connections, so it's not going to come off the belt. The rough method for you is to butcher the belt slot in the extender. I'm in the exact opposite situation. I want one for the left side. Have acquired a complete right side belt with extender but the only way to install it is to cut off my left side belt end, fit extender and then have the end re-sewn back. No-one will do seat belt sewing these days. Back in the day, had a mate who made 5-point race car belt assemblies, nobody died.

The old Gunmetal Grey KH2 exterior with black engine bay. The "G" refers to the interior trim colour of grey.

If it consistently blows the fuse after that same time you're probably on the money with a short to ground in the mag. clutch coil. The clutch circuitry runs from the 10A fuse to the relay then to the mag. clutch. Lots of places for damage along the way, any of which will blow the fuse but if it's a consistent time interval, more likely to be the coil.

Mate what Ben is pointing out here is all cam caps are line bored for the particular head they're on. If you swap any cap, the whole show needs to be re-line bored. You may think they look like they're going to fit, but it only takes a few thou off and they'll seize to the cam. Now you may be dead lucky and things actually fit, in which case great. But be prepared, could be a disaster around the corner.

These sorts of problems are always hard to diagnose, but as it's only on 1st it's more likely a gear noise than a bearing noise. Of course worn bearings makes for poor gear mesh which leads to gear noise, but usually in all the cluster gears. Is there a similar noise in 3rd too? Unless a 25 gearbox is a gift, there's merit in purchasing a brand new box. ($3k approx) If you fork out $1200-$1500 for an unknown 2nd hand box and then have to overhaul it, the $3k is looking pretty good.

Inlet or exhaust side? Inlet side has some wonderful hiding places. Cam cap washer is quite small, around 12mm outside diameter from memory. I'd have a break and come back fresh to keep searching.

Diesel Patrols are a bit of a trick as normally their system doesn't see positive pressure. The clutch booster has a check valve in the actual vacuum hose (check hose orientation) and usually the brake booster has a non return valve at the vacuum hose connection to the diaphragm. Check you don't mix the brake and clutch vacuum supplies. The clutch supply has an orifice to bias vacuum to the brake booster. The vacuum tank has no check valves. I'd be fitting a check valve in the vacuum supply hose, close to the engine. Use worm drive hose clamps on all vacuum hoses between the engine and that new check valve. Have seen V8 petrol trucks backfire when starting and blow vacuum hoses off. (in the olden days)

I thought all early models, except white and silver, came matt black in the engine bay. (My grey 90 model is matt black under the bonnet) But you have a 94 and by then Nissan was offering more engine bay colour options. Same colour as exterior but without clear coat is my guess.

Not much of a lip on that outlet Andrew, think you might have some blow-offs once she starts making boost.

9-blades, would that be an R33 GTR fan? Think the R34 GTR has 8-blades? Interested to know if the fan noise and cooling are an improvement over the old R32 GTR's style.

Are you sure it's not the aircon cutting in and the thermo is wired to come on at the same time? Can't imagine just the thermo load would be so savage to drop RPM instantly, there is a battery to assist after all.

Mate you have an Fc with hand commander. They have a feature where you can do mass changes to maps very simply, not requiring ANY great skill. As soon as you turn off and restart, those mass changes are forgotten and the Fc maps are exactly as they were. I use this feature after copping a tank of poor fuel. It's also useful info to give to your tuner. You can say your knock number dropped to "X" after removing "Y" degrees of timing for example. Download and read the hand commander instructions and there's also Paul's massive how-to thread on SAU.

The OP has a hand commander. One great feature of the old Fc is the ability to do a mass change to maps and then return to "as was" at the next engine start. If you get a crook batch of fuel, it's a piece of piss to pull 5 degrees from the whole IGN map and unless you're pushing the engine you won't notice much difference. And why would you push an engine if you're concerned about knock.

You must still have free travel so don't go overboard. You didn't say whether this has suddenly happened or if it's a low pedal following a clutch replacement or such. If it's a recent event, you should be looking to master cylinder.

I see, Peak Hold not an actual real time screen shot. Wondered about the driving-while-taking-a-photo bit.

Do I see 46 degrees IGN when everything is maxed at around 7000? Seems excessive.

What about the air/oil cooler as opposed to the coolant/oil warmer? N1's had the factory air/oil cooler so surely V-Spec's would too?

Might be igniter or AFM. Igniter is easiest checked by swapping with a known good unit. AFM can be unplugged and the car run in limp mode to see if things smooth out.

Fish oil is a blast from the past. Used to stink dreadfully and when the car sat in the sun, the oil would drip from every orifice leaving a lovely mess. You'd get it on your clothes, it would blow on the windscreen forming an impossible to shift smudge. Cats liked the car though. Try Tectyl these days, apply with spray gun and applicator nozzle/hose for those sealed areas.

Check tyre pressures. I've been guilty of driving with lower than optimum pressures especially if the car sits for months at a time.

If the workshop is any good they should be able to trace the damage trail. I agree with datsun_1600, car has spent too much time being driven in constant 4X mode. I'd suggest she badly overheated the front diff, pinion bearings collapsed causing hopeless gear mesh then….. Vibrations OP noted could have been the front propshaft flogging about on rooted pinion bearings or the unis. may have had it. Driver should have pulled the fuse (it's a 32) and then investigated properly. But it really was tilt tray time, I'm thinking damage was done by previous owner. New owners of these complicated old cars need to fully understand the systems they've bought into. A torque gauge going nuts for no reason should be a red flag, likewise ANY driveline vibration. Checking tyre size means exactly that, tape measure and note circumferences not simply reading side wall markings. I'd certainly be checking the front and rear shafts, back diff and transfer case. And there's all the half shafts…... Could get expensive as the ATTESSA fault still has to be identified and sorted..

John, $380 yesterday, $342 today. Tomorrow???

I'd suggest it's a voltage reg problem rather than diodes, but I'd check brush length before digging too deep. The brush lead limits extent of brush travel and once well worn, the brush won't make correct slip ring contact, it gets held back by the lead. The fact it pumps out respectable voltage once you give it a rev. means it has the ability to generate OK, which it wouldn't do with inoperable diodes. I've found with these old things, on engine start they don't charge, HICAS etc lights will flash as you move off. Once you reach around 2000rpm the alternator will cut in and from then on she's perfect, charging at any rpm's. Faulty regulator in those instances.

If you have a personal preference for tyres etc, approach the compliance shop to see if they're agreeable.

Something doesn't add up, $210? Just using round figures, most belts no matter what brand are around the $100 mark. Nissan quality tensioner and idler from any bearing shop comes to about $80. 3-Seals, about $10. That leaves $20 for the water pump which if he's suggesting to leave the top stud out is for Rb 20/26/30 bolt pattern. Kudos's $380 kit, although more expensive, shows far greater Nissan expertise. I don't leave bolts out, but if you're chasing a cheap price, this would be it.