jiffo

I see a conflict, limited budget and engine out. If you pull the engine you'll need deep pockets. Having got to that stage there's temptations galore and not just in the engine/turbo department. Gearbox and clutch, fit a decent front diff, have the transfer case checked to name a few. Just replacing coolant and vacuum hoses with genuine Nissan will blow over a grand. (quite a few hundred with silicone) I'm thinking put it back together and drive it until the finances are there, by which time you may have other things going on in your life.

You won't see the dry joints there Joel, have to lift the vacuum display to expose the 3-resistors. Carefully !!!!

I wouldn't be too concerned about the glowing red turbo, if that's how she looks after hard work. As a track car it would be spending most of its time doing just that. Around 500 deg C is cherry red for steel and a hard working turbo runs a lot hotter than that. Of course when just puttering along, a different story. As for the gasket, I'd straight edge check the manifold and turbo, may need to have both machined. As has been posted, check that the exhaust isn't exerting too much weight, might need some assistance via extra brackets. Does the engine move around a lot, mounts may be tired allowing the exhaust to hang differently to when at rest.

So it was working OK, fluid level is correct and now it's not working. No fluid leaks on the concrete. Push type clutch? Unless you've destroyed the pressure plate, it has to be either master cylinder, broken pedal, broken throw out lever or perhaps pivot ball. The broken bits are easy items to check. The return spring arrangement on the Skyline goes over-centre at about half pedal, thus your pedal stays on the floor if there's a hydraulic problem. I don't waste time on brake/clutch hydraulics, simply buy a new master cylinder.

Think there's a parallel thread regarding the repair of these. Sam was offering a repair service after buying the de-soldering gear and having success. Was quite a while ago now.

Are you using the correct pinion for the drive's location? Haven't worked on a 25 box but 20's etc have the drive mounted eccentrically to accommodate various pinion sizes. You select your pinion size then rotate the whole assembly to mesh correctly onto the nylon drive gear. Then re-work the locking tab slot to hold the assembly in the different position. I'd guess most Skyline owners wouldn't bother altering pinion sizes but back in the day when fitting Rb20's into Commos with their tall diff ratio, you had to swap out the pinion to get anywhere near an accurate speedo.

Black R34 Southbound on car trailer a few K's North of Gympie this morning. Wheel bearing gone on trailer? Slowed to help but no-one around. Hope she's sorted, I'm only 15k away if you're stuck.

I seem to recall the R35 GTR was originally planned to have electric motor front wheel assist, but they ran out of time/money so went for the proven mechanical drive. Looks like they've been plodding along in the back room.

It's all here: http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/270049-spline-drive-oil-pump-gears.html

If it's a stock cam Rb25det, 120 is way low, must be very poor when driving off boost. I'd think hard about doing it up as opposed to buying a 2nd hand engine, something coming with a compression test at least. Unless you're dead set on building up an engine, you'll quickly find parts and labour costs will exceed the cost of a replacement.

There's some pretty clever blokes working on the "G" sensor and their results are astounding. Datsun_1600 would be one of those blokes and there are others on the GTROC forum. Incredible that upgrading this sensor can have such a profound effect on a 25 year old chassis. Sure the 32 was the first ATTESSA version but the 33 isn't too different, maintaining line pressure to the transfer case clutch packs in order to reduce their reaction time. I do like the electronic upgrade.

Do you remember what the torque gauge is doing? It could give you an indicator. If the gauge is working instantaneously but you're not feeling the fronts grip, then the fault would be mechanical but if the torque gauge isn't reacting, I'd guess electrical. As an aside I check mine in a wet grassy paddock, haven't done wet bitumen. (haven't had a wet paddock for a while either) Does slides, straight line clutch drops etc and it hooks up as I'd expect, instantly, gauge and front wheels all happy together.

Appears the factory spec was quite a small 9-plate battery, 187L x 127w x 203h rated at 240CCA. There's an optional fitting of a 15-plate battery, 260L x173w x 204h rated at 490CCA. My car had a 620CCA Century from their Ultra High Performance range, so looks like it will be another big boy going back in.

Battery in the 32 GTR has died, sitting for over 4-years will do that. Instead of re-fitting a conventional large sized battery, I wondered if any owners have gone to something modern/compact such that there's a bit of room for future plans. (Not interested in a relocation to the boot though) Cranking capacity would need to be as good as the original, after that the alternator can take care of things.

If it rolls in 1st, must be a big hill or she's got low compression. Obviously the higher the gear, the easier it is to roll away.

What gear are you leaving it in?

Spotto, white R34 at Gladstone's Auckland Point lookout yesterday.

Agree, also gives you the opportunity to check out the hot side far more easily.

Unfortunately a lot of photos have been removed from Photobucket but the instructions are still worth the read. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/133679-rb26-inlet-plenum-removal-pics.html Terry what the hell is going on in those photos??? Way too many open orifices.

Unless there's something mechanically drastically wrong with the auto, leave it be. Spend a little of what a manual conversion will cost on giving the auto a valve work over, fit an oil cooler etc and enjoy the many benefits of an automatic.

No mate, that's the thermo switch for the aircon's thermo fan. As posted already, just follow the top radiator hose and you'll come across both temp senders. The single wire sender is for the dash gauge and the twin wire one is for the ecu. Then if you're really keen, you'll find another in one of the coolant pipes at the firewall. That one is for the aircon control unit. Crazy complicated cars these old things.

Engine is nowhere near ready to get accurate with tuning. For the moment set the CAS so she will start easily, sounded a bit too far advanced in the video.

You don't actually have any breather then, that pipe (which is supposed to run down the the black concertina pipe at the turbo inlet) is blocked with a bolt? Have a bit of a think what you've done, the PCV can try to remove blow-by gasses when there's manifold vacuum, but not once there's manifold pressure.

My bad. For some reason I thought you had an R33/Rb25. Rb26 doesn't have the purple plug solenoid for the aircon idle bump up. It does have an AAC and an Air Reg, but you'd have to be pretty keen to find them, they're well buried under the plenum.

I think you've misunderstood the instruction from your sparky. As Ben replied, the wiring from the aircon dual pressure switch is quite light, just sufficient to operate the aircon relay and way too light to run a high amp draw thermo fan. (The pressure switch is mounted on top of the receiver/dryer) The wiring to the compressor clutch however is a different story, is quite generous in size and is what I think your sparky was speaking of. As for wire colours, forget it. Nissan have a million colours and when they've run out or colours, they start adding coloured stripes. Nobody has the same colour sense, your lilac might be my blue, which is why we use multi meters.