jiffo

Not too many situations where the nozzle is downstream of the throttle plate, usually upstream and therefore no manifold vacuum on deceleration. I also think if the tuner has doubts, I'd be looking elsewhere. You want someone with a proven track record.

It's pretty chopped about. Still gives the wire colours at the plugs though.

OK did a bit of a dig in the shed and found an auto amplifier and harness. Do you want me to photograph each plug, I'm useless at colours.

Nissan call the dash control unit the auto-amplifier and your car will have the full auto aircon version. The attached photos are from the workshop manual and it's almost impossible to read wire colours, but best I can do. Every time I remove that flimsy centre trim another clip breaks.

Forget the hand commander, concentrate on getting the datalogit to work.

It's a shame you can't find the reason for the write off. These days it doesn't take much to write off a car, especially something with a new purchase price as cheap as a Mazda 2. Hail damage or a low level swim are both often causes for repairable write off. Not necessarily a body bending crash.

Yes the Air Reg is the fast idle device. It's buried under the plenum, is a 12V bi-metallic strip valve and you mentioned that it's all plumbed in anyway. The resistor mounts to the left strut tower and the air reg won't work electrically without the resistor, but it will close from engine bay heat regardless. It's one item I always block off on my Rb's, simply not need in my climate. The MAP sensor for the factory boost gauge has no input to the ecu, it only works the in-dash boost gauge. I'd need more info on that other taped up harness to give an opinion.

Must be great to have eyes that still work without using the No4 magnification. I agree, does look cracked.

Your first picture at the power steer tank would be for the Air Reg resistor. Next one near brake booster would be for the MAP sensor, factory boost gauge. Can't make out the one that's taped up, perhaps the Air Reg? Have you got it in? It's buried under the plenum.

I've never heard "Fine motor skills" used in that context before Terry, good one. Thinking outside the square.

Terry what I'm talking about is the smooth operation of a vehicle. Clearly driving with brake and accelerator applied until there's no pads left, doesn't fit in that category. Drivers need to be taught ALL skills and double footing an auto is just that, another skill. I've watched people trying to couple up a caravan onto the car's ball using only the accelerator with some amazing near misses. When I can no longer stand the near death crushes I offer to drive. In every case, the driver is amazed such smooth control can be produced so simply. I always demonstrate the procedure to anyone who drives an auto, it's up to them if they want to learn a new and useful skill.

Hard and fast rules make for dumb drivers. Right foot is used for normal situation brake applications. But left foot usage must be taught to achieve smooth control of an auto when manoeuvring with a load, trailer etc. In those situations you hold the vehicle with the left foot on the brake, bring rpm up to a fast idle and then gradually release/apply the brake to achieve smooth control. It's easy to see drivers who have been taught to right foot brake no matter what, by their lack of control and general jerkiness when manoeuvring. In fact the ONLY way to smoothly drive something like a scraper etc onto a float is by the method described above.

Think the restrictor is still in the hose perhaps?

Probably not a structural complaint, but you can't have any sharp edges that might injure pedestrians.

Solenoid will definitely drain a car battery in short time, I imagine it would be getting rather hot as well. If you need alarm etc then they'll have to be wired from the battery side of the solenoid, so you can kill that solenoid when the car's not running.

26 is the same as most setups. Boost signal comes from the plenum and straight into a Tee. One leg of the Tee heads off to the actuators on each turbo. The other leg of the Tee heads off to the boost solenoid. Then out of the boost solenoid over to a nipple on the inlet pipework to keep the emissions people happy. One of the hoses at the boost solenoid will have a yellow band to mark that it's fitted with a restrictor, if the car is still on original boost. Pop out the restrictor and the car will boost probably as Nissan originally intended. Biggest difference with the 26 is the length of the steel pipes and hoses. If one was setting the car up for big hp. you'd have to look more seriously at all that.

Hmmm, manual boost control on a 32 GTR. Easiest option is to replace the factory solenoid with your bleed valve.

It should be noted, normally you'd only get a slight weep from an unsealed cam cap joint, not a big puddle of oil as you seem to have. I prefer 3-bond more than any other product. It's really good stuff.

Sorry for the poor quality photo, had to enlarge it greatly but you can see where a smear of 3-bond is needed to stop oil leaking from the camshaft section of the head out to the cam belt section. Oil can weep between the cam cap and the head unless there's a smear of sealant applied. Easiest way to do this is after the cam is installed but not yet torqued down. As mentioned I also wipe a smear of 3-bond to the seal's outer as they're quite a loose fit. I couldn't find any mention of this in my workshop manual, but it's pretty basic stuff. Any original Rb I've stripped has had a nice deposit of sealant in this spot.

Unsure how the cam seals were initially installed, but both front cam bearings are important. Their front sections need a wipe of 3-bond to stop oil weeping between the cam cap and the head. This is easiest to do by first installing the cam with all caps, then removing the front cap to apply the sealant, and then finally torquing down all the caps. It has to be done carefully so the seal oil drain back hole isn't blocked. I also give the outers of the seals a very light wipe of 3-bond as they're only a light push fit. As the head was re-built I presume the actual seal surfaces were tidied up.

You could buy a brand new box for $2900 from Just Jap, sell yours and end up not much more out of pocket than the reco'd price.

Skylines run individual circuits for left and for right lighting so you'll have to get out the multi meter. Could be the relay, fuses, headlight switch or high/low dip switch. If you increased the wattage of the bulbs, you may have cooked the high/low dip switch. But start with the easy/cheap items.

Since all the cam components still have to come off whether it's a head gasket or not, take care when dismantling and see how things pan out. Fingers crossed for you.

I would have expected a head gasket oil leak to come from the right side so I'm also leaning to a leaky cam seal. Here's a photo of my 32's exhaust cam which made quite a mess. Previous owner had decided to replace cam seals and had done a poor effort. Oil travelled a long way and it was hard to track where it originated, belt etc stayed clean as the oil leaks between the rear cam belt cover and the block.

I've been changing oil filters for at least 50 years and I've never come across a spin-on that doesn't incorporate a by-pass valve. Owners should understand the by-pass will open when the filter medium becomes blocked and also on cold start when oil is at its max viscosity.