jiffo

Those temps are very low. Are you sure your temp sender is reading correctly? Is it earthed properly etc? Post a photo of the setup.

That's right and another reason to buy coppers as with any of the exotics, (platinum, iridium) it's not recommended to alter the pre-set gap.

For me it's coppers every time. I bought mine from here, about $3.00 a shot. Add some filters to the order to reach $50 and it's free delivery. https://www.sparesbox.com.au/spark-plugs-ignition But whatever plug you choose, check the protrusion from the head. Give the spring in the coil pack a bit of a tug to make sure it contacts the conductor. ISO dimension plugs are a bit shorter than "normal".

You're safe Terry, the incident was nowhere near you. Or perhaps you did a quick trip up to Helltown?

Picked up the paper and the byline screamed, “Police seek white Skyline driver”. OK a Skyline driver did something silly, but how often do we read, “Police seek naturally aspirated V6 Commodore driver”? Never. Something about the Skyline name conjures up images of fast/furious smoking tyres and in most of those cases it will be some dunger Commodore or a rusted-out S chassis. The local rag must have mentioned “white Skyline” at least 4-times in the report while the main story of a “B” double car transporter roll-over read more like an ad for Claytons Towing. I was surprised the usual "high powered turbo Nissan Skyline" wasn't quoted. Have to wonder if any of these scribblers have ever been for a drive in a stock Rb, it's not all that exhilarating. Got to love integrity in journalism, oxymoron anyone??

Spotted a non-running?? yellow 34 in a Boyne Island backyard at the weekend. Gladstone is V8 territory with some very tough sounding cars. Rare to hear a screaming 6.

Yes the IGN bit is certainly odd. But if memory serves me these things have a constant 12V feed as well as the IGN for switching. Will have to dig out the woeful wiring diagrams or perhaps just wait to see if she stays OK.

I don't see the problem as an electronic one, more likely hydraulic. If all the hydraulics were working correctly AND the pump stayed on continuously, the relief valve would be screaming, you'd really hear that. So to me some chunder got stuck under a valve and the pump just kept on pumping, unable to reach cut off pressure. By giving it a rest, I guess the piece of chunder has either gone further down the pipework/pump or has settled back in the inlet waiting to do this again. Time will tell.

GTR's use an alloy knuckle spindle to reduce rebound mass. Best to check before using the big hammer.

An interesting approach, one that I would never have thought of, congrats to you for thinking outside the square. I don't touch the seals unless they show signs of weeping. Have seen too many replacement seals weep due to difficulty linishing old wear marks from the sealing surface whilst in-situ. Saw the zip tie method used during el-cheapo cylinder head removal. My luck would have something drop down there and ruin the show.

Does it look like this one? http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/168895-r32-aircon-pulley-bearing/?hl=%2Baircon+%2Bclutch+%2Bbearing

20 box is skinnier behind the bell housing and has a more ribbing. Really, they don't look too similar at all.

Without getting pedantic, the easiest way to collect data is to knock up an Excel spreadsheet. Enter litres and K's at every fill. Doesn't matter if it's 15 litres or 50 litres, same for the k's, just keep entering the data. Your average will get tighter the more data you input. But it's a Skyline, you know from your wallet if it's chewing juice excessively.

That's a great result. No2 son's 33 would do similarly, I used to worry once 600k's rolled over but it never ran out.

What method did you use to hold the crank when you undid the balancer bolt?

A long shot but you didn't mount the callipers wrong side for side. (bleeder would be upside down). Apart from that like John said, bleed the ABS unit again, does sound like air in the system.

I'd forget any city figures, it's just not worth the effort. But a highway test (without crazy RPM overtaking) I'd expect no worse than 10L per 100. My stock RB26 does 10 highway driving. I added the trailer and it went 20 to 25. (I couldn't do the 350K trip with my 72L tank) Car was always on boost, so poor economy.

Mostly it's going to come down to the right foot. Heavy foot, crap economy. Your power certainly isn't out of the box, loads of much higher hp cars doing respectable L/100 numbers. If the car doesn't have cams or adjustable cam wheels it should be pulling a nice manifold vacuum. You'll see a big drop in economy once you alter cam timing/valve overlap. What's the static compression numbers, won't get good off-boost economy from a low compression engine. And finally the tune, very few tuners will spend time on the light load points and that's where most of us drive for economy.

Braided line install would presume the system was bled? By extending the push rod so far, you've eliminated free travel. Then the piston doesn't expose the inlet ports to get a gutfull of fluid, so eventually everything comes to a halt. (In most cases this is due to wear in the master cylinder's initial bore and you're chasing better bore further down) Your pedal take up point can be set via push rod length and the pedal's "up" stop, so long as the master cylinder is operating properly. When finished setting ensure your pedal has free travel. But first pop off the dust boot, give the throw out lever close inspection. Be aware the pedal's return spring will go over centre about half way down without clutch pressure to return it. Watch the fingers when the master cylinder push rod is off.

Do I read it correctly, you've been extending the push rod to such an extent there's not much rod left in the clevis? Air doesn't magically appear, not unless the fluid level dropped and then where would it go? So no free travel and 99% will need a master cylinder, but to be 100% positive I'd remove the boot and check the throw out lever isn't broken. Master cylinder is not expensive and always best to sort out before it leaks fluid onto your carpet. Heavy clutch will soon show up any weaknesses, either in the hydraulics, the actual pedal or the throw out lever.

They bend easy as. Workshop manual writers should be shot for this ridiculous TDC hang-up they all seem to have. Keep pistons down bores should be on page one.

Have you fitted a kevlar belt before? If not Google "over tensioned Rb cam belt noises", might save you doing the job twice. I'd think about seal replacement too. I never touch a seal if it's working OK with no weeping. The oil pump seal in particular may cause some grief when fitting. With any of these water pump kits, you have to be positive you're getting the correct pump as far as that 6mm bolt up top goes. The e-bay photo isn't clear enough to see if the pump has the hole slotted.

Would an S14 have a chipped key, probably just an old fashioned key. So the bloke who cut that copy needs to give it a touch up. Pretty common especially if the original is worn or damaged.

Rev matching is up or down shifting, otherwise you're crunching gears. Knowing the vehicle means there's no need to watch the tacho or any other instrument. Up shifting is simply taking it easy, as previously mentioned by GTS Boy. Or double de-clutch on the up shift as one did in the olden days with non-synchro gearboxes or way way back to crash boxes. Again taking it easy as all the double de-clutching in the world won't help if the revs aren't correct. Of course there's no need to double de-clutch either but often it's a hard habit to break for old timers.

And me, looks like I need new glasses.