jiffo

The stock caster rod bush is silicone filled, so she's had it. Time for some Polyurethane bushes. Superpro SPF1202AK have the eccentric centre bush for some extra caster.

Not to put too fine a point on it but with No1 at TDC you can still be 180 out on the cams. So don't panic if the cam marks don't appear with No1 at TDC. Turn the crank another revolution and then see if the cam marks are looking better when referenced against the back cover. Don't take any notice of markings on the belt at this stage. Not cranking an engine backwards harks from timing chain engines with hydraulic tensioners. With the engine cranked backwards, the spring pre-tensioner may be insufficient to keep the chain on the sprockets.

Did they mention what impedance they are? Better check it out.

Depends on the workshop's equipment. One like this Peterson was once standard gear for flywheel and cylinder head re-surfacing. More modern equipment, a purpose built flywheel grinder. If none of the above is available, into the lathe it goes.

Had this car had the clutch replaced not too long ago? Flywheel appears to have fresh grinding marks on the area not exposed to the driven plate. The marks look like the wheel wasn't machined on a lathe, it was done of a surface grinder and I haven't seen a wheel done by that method for a long time. May explain your jumpy clutch.

Not difficult, would be even easier since you have the engine out. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/161802-r32-speedo-cable.html

I'd be looking at the exhaust manifold gasket, going from the symptoms you mention. A tick, tick, tick type noise "usually" means just a single exhaust leak per power stroke whereas at the actual turbo gasket, the explosions have blended into a fairly solid blast of gas. Remove the heat shields and have a good look at the junction between exhaust manifold and head. Look for signs of carbon even sometimes a slight oil weep. Don't forget each exhaust port has 2-bolts, very often the exhaust manifold studs snap off.

Yes if you want actual hands-on advise you need the Patrol 4x4 forum. This re-power has been done to death and they have all the info you'll want. For a start if you want accurate input, you'll need to specify what model Patrol. GQ, GU etc, as amongst lots of other things, the flywheel altered after GQ and that affects bell housing length, front prop shaft etc.

My handbook is for all model Skylines and I think sedans had a combination headlight which used the H4, thus only 2-headlights. My car has individual low beam lights and high beam lights, thus 4-headlights. I can't read Jap, so I'm just guessing. The next light below (with the H3 12v/55W) would be for the fog light. But Bob your question is doing my head in. Handbook says H1 on high beam. To my knowledge R32 projectors use either a H1 or a H3C on low, but they all use a H3 on high??

I probably should have just looked in the owners manual instead of digging bulbs out of suspect headlight assemblies !!!

Bob did Nissan check the factory fitment in Japan or the upgrade as fitted to the Aus model? The Aus model had 85W fitted as part of the changes to suit our "challenging" driving conditions. I've only seen 55W in my 32's, even the N1 has moderate wattage of 60/55W in their H4 bulbs.

What do the pins looks like, H3 or H3C?

Pivot bolt does most of the work, many cars have completely lost the tensioner setup and run on the pivot bolt only. Rotate the crank so that the power steer pulley access hole lines up with the pivot bolt, 14mm socket from memory. Slacken the pivot bolt and everything will loosen.

Bob from my rocket> Pre 91: Low H3 55W High H3 55W Post 91: Low H1 55W High H3 55W I've seen some owners go to the 100W H3. I'm not keen on overloading the system.

Bob you'll need to specify the model. There's pre 91, post 91 and N1.

First post and perhaps thrilled to have the 34 GTR, so welcome to the forum. Try the search feature here or go to GTROC (UK) site where they have a complete list of the various oils, quantities etc.

The boost source is the green pipe labeled> "To bottom of collector, boost source" The blue pipe simply connects to the induction pipework ahead of the turbo inlets.

FPCM has nothing to do with killing the pump in the event of an accident, the ECU takes care of that via Pin 18. ECU triggers the fuel pump relay, giving the pump positive feed. FPCM alters the voltage of the negative feed to the pump.

Or ……..

Are you aware that R32's use the cat overheat warning light as the check engine light?

It looks like you've run the hoses below the chassis rail? They will run above as shown in the attached photos. Braided hoses need clamps to stop any rubbing. Your hose lengths also look like they're as supplied in the kit. You can have them shortened (Enzed etc) to suit your installation which will make clamping a lot easier. The China hoses are only radiator hose quality but as they're inside the braid, they hold up OK. The alloy end fittings are extremely suspect. I'd do them all up with Loctite 577 or you may find the fittings at the mounting block loosen due to the engine movement.

I agree. Perhaps there was a fault in the Fc that was initiated when the commander was fitted? Seems there's a couple of questions to answer here. Why did it start running like a heap after 300k's? Boost pipework all intact? We can be confident the tuner would have started the engine quite a few times prior to handing over the vehicle thus ruling out the "non storage of data" fault. (where changes aren't saved due to incorrect wiring) Tuning via the hand commander alone is from way back in the olden days. Datalogit is not expensive and apart from its speed, its vital to access the many functions simply not available via the commander.

If it's making air and presuming you're keeping the reservoir topped up, using hose, bottle etc properly, you have a master cylinder problem.

Might pay to check your info first. Stock series 1 Rb25det will have 370cc injectors, around 13ohms impedance. Rb20det is 270cc and they're also the same impedance. (but top feed)

When you stripped it down to inspect the damage, was the alternator belt still sitting properly in the various pulley grooves? Hadn't tried to climb off or anything? I have seen pumps go like this previously, but they were no-names. If you break the pump right through at that crack I think you'll be amazed how thin the metal is.