jiffo

Mate pack out the CAS so its not having its guts pushed out. (Same thickness packing as the stock cam belt cover) Then concentrate on the next problem. One thing at a time.

In the video, stop it at the first second. You get a pretty good view of the CAS and it appears to be bolted hard up to the bracket, no spacer washers.

This. Does the OP want a single push button that starts the engine as well as stops it, similar to most modern keyless style vehicles? If so this is far more sophisticated and complicated than a race car warrants.

Info is in the workshop manual. Filling via the gearstick was a last resort in the conventional (RWD) gearbox if the filler plug was butchered. A few 32 & 33 GTR owners have come unstuck thinking they were filling the mainbox via the gearstick.

On a GTR the rear extension housing and transfer case are sealed separately from the gearbox. Main box uses gear oil, transfer case uses ATF. So although you could fill the transfer case via the gearstick (which is mounted on the extension housing), you still need to remove the level plug to fill to the correct level. NEVER drop the oil until you've checked that the level plug can actually be removed. Often times a careless previous owner has ruined any chance of removing them. To me, pumping the oil in via the level plug is far easier than removing the gearstick trim, gearstick and so on.

Don't get too hung up on the AAC until you've checked the air reg is also closed up.

And>

Here you go.

If you try showmystreet.com Tora Street isn't too long, crosses over the Pacific Motorway one closer to the city than Kessel's Road.

Superpro SPF1202AK from memory. Will also give you some caster adjustment via the eccentric.

This info plus bucket loads more is all in the workshop manuals. The cars have complicated systems but it's all spelled out. Just need to make time, sit down and read.

Yep, goes heavy.

The single wire plug (blue wire) is for the dash mounted temp gauge and can be removed with no effect to the ecu. It's the 2-wired plug beside it that is the coolant temp sensor for the ecu.

It's a gearbox out job, not too hard but you may also decide to look at the clutch while its accessible. Perhaps look at replacing the odd seal too?

Sounds like you're describing the throw out lever and it's broken? Does happen especially if you have a heavy pedal due to an uprated clutch. Other item that snaps is the actual clutch pedal.

It's also worth having the alternator's output checked. They must really pump out the power and an old alternator will never quite make the full 14+volts. GTR's need steady battery power and that means the alternator must be in top condition.

For answers regarding importing GTR's into the US or Canada, this is the bloke to talk to. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/248562-nismo-r32-gt-r-buttonwillow-raceway-park-california.html

Battery in the alarm's siren getting old ?

Don't forget to disconnect and plug the vacuum line if you're testing with the engine idling. 43 psi with vacuum line plugged and engine idling. Same static pressure for IGN on and with engine stopped. Engine idling with vacuum line connected will naturally drop fuel pressure so too many variables. But the book says around 36psi.

It's my opinion some people should not got down this path, they're simple not suited to the problems you invariably come across. Makes no difference if you're swapping a 25 in place of 20 or going for a V8, you will have some dramas along the way. With all the info available on the net these days, one would expect a straight Rb to Rb swap to be easy but that hasn't been my experience, you need patience and some clear headed pin out ability when it comes to the wiring. Forget an auto sparky unless you have very deep pockets. Usually you're simply paying him to learn. You also need to sift through the mass of mis-information given on the net, a LOT is simply rubbish. Talk to the guys who have actually done the full hands-on swap, not the keyboard heroes.

Rd28? Gu or Gq?

Must be the first Rb26 I've heard of that wants a higher idle. Don't go playing with the throttle linkage, use the AAC adjustment. AAC tries to maintain engine idle when influenced by electrical load, aircon and power steer load.

Quite a few Skylines in the Pee recently. Sparkly blue one doing naughty speeds beside a bike South from the Pine St lights the other day. Maybe the same car at the duck ponds today? And a Southbound 33 at Chatsworth 5mins later. I was the filthy 32 towing trailer with a fridge.

Terry is that the Works Bell Mk1 on the Commo?

Here's mine.