jiffo

I love the way when proud R32 owners display pics of their car, there's one of the dash. Congrats Bob, excellent car.

Are these any help?

When a workshop welds on your car's exhaust etc, they fit a surge protection device across the battery terminals. These days everything is DC so you never hear of alternator diodes cooking, was very common back in the AC welder days. I'm yet to receive an iron clad guarantee from any workshop that if they blow my ecu they'll replace it. So I unplug mine.

As others have said, you'd know immediately if anything was cooked. Your short was in parallel with the various electronic items so the effect is greatly reduced. (Like the load of the starter motor which is in parallel with the car's electrics) Main thing is you've learnt a lesson, spanners and battery posts……. Must be 45 years back my mate did something similar, accidentally touched the spanner onto his expandable watch band while he inadvertently rested the watch on the other terminal. Watch band lit up like a toaster element. You kidding we didn't have fun removing the remains of his watch band with cooked skin attached. Lesson: No watches, wedding rings……….

25de Neo is 15 degrees BTDC. Neo engine has a totally different ecu plug to the 33's Rb25, no way you could confuse them.

Not the way I check fuel pressure. Vacuum line disconnected and hose plugged, 43 psi fuel pressure, same as IGN on but with engine stopped. Engine idling and vacuum line connected, 36psi.

You need to find your leak first. If it's leaking on the suction hose it will draw in air and the pump will howl. Once you've eliminated external hose leaks from the equation, then look to the pump.

Dipstick sticking out or blown out???

A loooooong time ago one of my boys bought a 20det engine/box from Adelaide Jap Motorsport who were THE import engine people back then. We dropped it into a VB Commo and she went for ages with NO engine to box reinforcement pieces. That's the way she turned up, wired onto a pallet. Engineer had also never seen a 32 so he didn't notice anything amiss. Eventually a mate who had actually seen an R32 pointed out the missing components so we got in touch with Adelaide and they posted them up. No idea why the engine was delivered missing the bits but at a guess, they'd done a box swap and got a bit lazy. Obviously it didn't break in half or tear itself to bits but it sure looked a lot stronger with those reinforcements attached.

Doesn't look too difficult if you've got the gear.

Always the same problem with ATTESSA. Think about it. You fitted new front tyres, no mention of new rears so I presume the fronts are now bigger in circumference than the rears? So for any given road speed, the fronts are rotating more slowly than the rears. Thus the ATTESSA thinks the rears are slipping and applies torque to the front, trying to compensate. The ATTESSA computer has a small tyre wear allowance but once you exceed that, it's going to start applying front torque which is why, if you must run uneven circumference tyres (front to back) put the new tyres on the back. Then the fronts will be rotating faster than the rears, moving the wear allowance envelope in the opposite direction. Always run a tape around your tyres and note each circumference. Fit the largest on the back. Unfortunately most tyre shops presume GTR's have a 3rd differential, so they don't consider wear when fitting up partial sets of tyres.

Always the same problem with ATTESSA. Think about it. You fitted new front tyres, no mention of new rears so I presume the fronts are now bigger in circumference than the rears? So for any given road speed, the fronts are rotating more slowly than the rears. Thus the ATTESSA thinks the rears are slipping and applies torque to the front, trying to compensate. The ATTESSA computer has a small tyre wear allowance but once you exceed that, it's going to start applying front torque which is why, if you must run uneven circumference tyres (front to back) put the new tyres on the back. Then the fronts will be rotating faster than the rears, moving the wear allowance envelope in the opposite direction. Always run a tape around your tyres and note each circumference. Fit the largest on the back. Unfortunately most tyre shops presume GTR's have a 3rd differential, so they don't consider wear when fitting up partial sets of tyres.

Always the same problem with ATTESSA. Think about it. You fitted new front tyres, no mention of new rears so I presume the fronts are now bigger in circumference than the rears? So for any given road speed, the fronts are rotating more slowly than the rears. Thus the ATTESSA thinks the rears are slipping and applies torque to the front, trying to compensate. The ATTESSA computer has a small tyre wear allowance but once you exceed that, it's going to start applying front torque which is why, if you must run uneven circumference tyres (front to back) put the new tyres on the back. Then the fronts will be rotating faster than the rears, moving the wear allowance envelope in the opposite direction. Always run a tape around your tyres and note each circumference. Fit the largest on the back. Unfortunately most tyre shops presume GTR's have a 3rd differential, so they don't consider wear when fitting up partial sets of tyres.

Drove No2 son's 33 into Autobarn many years ago. Youngster behind the counter congratulated me on having the best looking Magna he'd ever seen.

If it has H1's on low beam it's a post 91, projector. High beams will be H3. With any of these cars the wiring must be sorted before you start playing with bulbs. Relays need to be fitted to remove the voltage drop and to eliminate the high amperage switching loads on the dash switch, and also the high/low dipper switch switching loads. Add a diode so that low stays on with high beam. Then consider HID's on low beam, around 4300K is your whitest (though unfortunately still defectable) burner.

We have the "Beware R34 GTR" thread and now the "Beware R33 GTR", time for a "Beware R32 GTR" thread ???

Pedal will stay on the floor as it's designed to do just that. The return spring on the pedal goes over centre about half way down, thus reducing the effort required. Without your slave and master working in conjunction properly, the pedal will stay down.

This is what you want: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=645403&group_ID=675633&store=australia&dir=catalog OR the e-bay version: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/valve-keeper-remover

Snap-On have the tools. Not expensive when viewed in perspective. Replacing those hard-as-wood valve stem seals is usually an easy fix to stop excessive smoke on over-run etc. Removing the head will not only have the extra gasket's expense, but most owners will take the opportunity to give her a freshen up, re-seat valves, surface grind and so on. Quickly runs into an expensive exercise, so don't drop a valve.

I've found genuine R32 body parts readily available whereas with trim and body parts for my Commo, it was always the same story, item no longer stocked, try the wreckers. Car forums are still the best place to source reasonably priced parts for these old models.

Pretty sure JPNZ do this manual in batches of 100. You'd have to pay up front and wait until the numbers have been reached.

Low.

Still not enough IMO.

If its only got 2-wires it's probably the dropping resistor for the air reg.

Nizmoman asked the obvious question, "Does it have an aftermarket steering wheel?" Now you must do some test driving NOT on the freeway, just normal suburban stuff that involves corners. If your light stays off after the 20 or 30 minutes, the steering wheel boss is your problem. A lot of aftermarket wheel kits don't locate the sensor correctly in the boss. So the car thinks it's turning a huge circle when it's actually going straight ahead. If you do suburban driving with corners etc, the HICAS ecu won't care but on a freeway with lots of straight ahead driving, eventually the HICAS ecu will throw a fault. (I found it to be around 20 minutes of straight steering) Key on/off and you're usually you're good for another 20 or so minutes before the light comes on again. However if your light returned even in suburban driving, you'll have to keep digging.