
jiffo
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Everything posted by jiffo
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Shed looks nice. He's done an edge rebate for the bottom of the wall sheets rather than let them fly over and then vermin proof so he's got the smarts. With a portal frame style of shed as you have the dimensions for a doorway sloping weather edge aren't quite so critical so he could have formed a sloping threshold, seems he had the manpower available. (You can see how the door mullions would be hanging in the air if he made any sort of weather edge wider than the opening, you need accurate dimensions marked on the boxing) Truck would have backed in over the mesh and worked his way out. Then re-fit the last pieces of boxing, which is where the door is too, so the crete would have been quite workable to form the weather edge. Don't see any fly braces on the rafters, have a check of your design drawings to see if they're required.
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Building weather steps into a slab is something that must be discussed with the concretor prior to the pour as it involves a LOT of work to be done correctly and labour wise, it means an extra bloke simply for the door steps. If the concretor has a big crew the door step man is usually also on the vibrator. (If it's a small crew, probably no vibrator anyway) You must also supply the concretor exact door dimensions including dimensions of the curtain and tracks. I usually allow 50mm back for the curtain and 50mm wider than door opening to allow for the tracks. I don't like tapering approaches (as they're difficult) rather I prefer a 20mm step that the curtain drops into. The concretor will screw a 20mm thick removable strip of timber to the slab formwork. Once the slab concrete is placed, that strip is removed and then the edges etc are tidied up. It's a tedious job, sponging and working with flimsy edges of concrete. If any of the dimensions supplied are wrong, you will have frames sitting in the air (if the shed is a frame design) or worse the curtain will still hit concrete when it's down. If the design is a portal frame style, accuracy is not quite as important so long as he makes his weather tapers or steps much larger than the door opening. In any case the door curtain should come with a soft seal attached across the full width and it seals well when pressed hard against the slab. But unless there's a weather step, rain water will still run across to the tracks and then into the shed.
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Rookie Question - Jack Stands, Where Should They Be Placed On My 32?
jiffo replied to pdot's topic in General Maintenance
I think it also depends on the experience of the bloke using the jack. At some time I've jacked all my cars from the chassis rails and haven't put a mark on them. I use about 300mm of 100x10mm plate to spread the jack's point load plus timber between the plate and the chassis rail. But whacking a jack straight onto a chassis rail will guarantee a dinted rail, they're simply not designed for that. I had a Rustia so bad I couldn't open/shut doors once she was jacked, it didn't matter where you lifted that heap. Calling them a chassis rail is even a stretch, one side stop halfway down the car FFS. -
Rookie Question - Jack Stands, Where Should They Be Placed On My 32?
jiffo replied to pdot's topic in General Maintenance
Here's the recommended lift points, but take care. These are designed for an even lift, something like a 4-point hoist. If you intend jacking up from a cross member and then transferring to these jack points via stands, you won't achieve the even loading that a hoist can. You'll find one stand will take a lot of weight before the other touches. -
Mini Overhaul Of My R33 - Gone Wrong :(
jiffo replied to SkudR33's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Buy a complete running engine, there will be heaps available. This way you aren't up for a top overhaul gasket set and you can do compression/leak down tests. You can't do that with just a bottom end and some questionable build story. -
R32 Gtr Tail Shaft Options - Help Needed
jiffo replied to Hornet2572's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I'd ask for clarification on the "Pretty well flogged" comment first. GTR rear propshaft is very tough and usually its only fault is the universal joint at the gearbox end. Front shaft vibrations are nearly always universals or if she's had a hard life, wear to the spline in the transfer case. Easy to pick the propshaft vibrations especially at lift off if a universal joint has had it. (GTR will often get the gear stick wobbling) This would need new yokes to suit a replaceable joint if you intended going down that route. (Standard joint has the peened in universal) The CV joints give excellent service as does the centre bearing. It's an over-engineered bit of gear but if you have plans for a massive hp increase, you're out of my territory. -
Snapped Spark Plug And Snapped Ezy Out In My Block
jiffo replied to just kris's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Common reason for seized plugs is the plug not tight enough which allows combustion gases up around the threads. Your plug threads should come out clean, not coated in carbon soot. A match head dab of Never Seize on the thread should also be standard practice. -
Snapped Spark Plug And Snapped Ezy Out In My Block
jiffo replied to just kris's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Nope you've really buggered that one. Toss those crap easy-outs in the bin so you're never tempted to use them again. There are stud removing tools specifically designed for the job but now you've that got a bit of hardened steel stuck down there, the head will have to come off. They'll MIG weld to the remains of the plug and hopefully the broken plug complete with easy-out will come out. Tidy up the spark plug threads and job done, apart from the cost. -
Vibrating Sound From Tailshaft When Clutch Under Load
jiffo replied to JordansR32's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
20+ year old prop shaft, universals must be first on the list. Out of phase joints isn't a big problem with these setups, but of course one should take appropriate care during assembly. -
R32 Gtr Brake Light Switch/pedal - Strange Question
jiffo replied to dorifticon's topic in General Maintenance
Check around the floor, looks like you've just lost the push-in rubber bump. -
Gladstone is V8 town, some big Hp utes around. What work are you planning on? Rent is pretty sky high unless you're scoring it in your package. It's a big money town and everything is priced accordingly. Unless you're earning top coin, you could end up living in Miriamvale or Bororen and commuting. A bit like a gold rush town must have been back in the day. Where else will you see traffic jambs at 2 in the morning, 1500 workers swapping over at the ferry terminals, girls handing out business cards, coffee and pie vans making a fortune......
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Drill and tap the gear and use a puller to remove it. Probably best to bin that gear then. Toyota gears come with 2-tapped puller holes ready to go, not Nissan though.
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Then why suggest the key had slipped on the crank????? Trouble shooting must be done in logical steps. Ensuring cam timing is spot on must be one of the first checks.
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Only a 5 minute job to pull the top cover and check cam timing against TDC on the balancer. Cam wheels each have a dot referenced against their respective timing marks on the back cover.
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Yes fitted one in my son's Patrol. Got it from Jaycar but there's other cheap models around these days. Repco were recently selling one for around $100. Easy to install, the monitor clipped over the rear view mirror and just needed power which was easy to find via the convenient overhead lights. The camera's wireless unit also needed power plus the reverse light signal which we had down at the rear of the Patrol so then it was just a matter of mounting and adjusting the camera. Worked well AND when you grab reverse at the servo, you pick up their in-store cameras.
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CAS plug in properly, not loose?
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You're on the wrong forum mate. Go to the aus300zx forum for some real facts. Great forum, excellent info, buy their CD for workshop manual and so on, even has recipes. Terrific bunch of blokes and what a car forum is all about.
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Sensor Plug On Bottom Of Radiator, Please Help
jiffo replied to bomber00's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Won't be a problem. That sensor works the engine's over-temp thermo fan when the aircon is activated, has no other input to anything. -
Best to do some sums first. New valves, seats, resurface, gasket sets........and you haven't looked at the more expensive stuff like ring lands. Weigh that up against another good running engine, a no brainer.
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Do you have the workshop manual?
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The way I read it is Nic has an Rb26 with the e-bay turbines upgrade? He's done the fuel pump and a few other items so all things being equal it should top out closer to the 300rwkw end rather than the 200rwkw. Stock injectors would call it a day under the 300rwkw, AFM's would go a bit more. Turbos would not be operating too efficiently but the upgrade only cost a few hundred bucks, can't expect 21st century results.
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Yes Jeff I think this sub section would be a lot less frequented if blokes did as good chippies do, Measure twice, cut once.
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How Is This For Service!
jiffo replied to Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Bob,.......love your work. -
Downloaded this PDF from QLD Transport a while back.
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R32 Gtr Wiring Diagram That Includes Boost Gauge Sensor
jiffo replied to S13q's's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Looking at the plug end with the lock tab to the top: Left wire is dark green with silver bands, +12V from IGN. Centre wire is white with blue stripe, Signal to dash gauge. Right wire is black with yellow stripe, GRND.