jiffo

When you removed the coilpacks did you check if they had the carbon brush or only the spring HT connection? Often with these older models the spring will need a bit of a stretch and a clean up to ensure it's contacting the plug.

Yes that's my understanding of the R33 too. In an R32 the cat over temp light is the check engine light so it does connect to the ecu for that purpose. Can't understand people hacking wires. Under the passenger seat you can UNPLUG the cat sensor wiring, no need for butchery. Fit a grommet in the floor pan hole and it's looking good.

Yes the R32's system works in conditions other than simply wheel speed difference, but cruising at 100 under light load, nope. Moderate acceleration without rear wheel slip will show some front torque due to the "G" sensor input. But as for tyre sizing, I can't understand what's so hard to understand. Forget theoretical rolling diameters, get the bloody tape out and check circumferences. It's surprising how similar looking tyres can still be quite different in circumference. Put the small ones on the front. And read up on the manual, it's all in there.

So is it going in the GU or the GQ? GU has the DMF so bellhousing is longer than the GQ. You're on the wrong forum, try Patrol4x4.com. Blokes there have been there done this many times.

Workshop time. If you thought the 26 has hydraulic lash adjustment, best take her to an expert. You'll save time and money in the end.

Like John said, eliminate the simple items before you go down the synchro or expensive oil change road. It really does sound like the clutch isn't disengaging properly. This might be an adjustment issue or the spigot bearing could be dry, any workshop worth the name will soon tell you. So don't force it into 1st, try to select reverse (gently) since it has no synchro. If you get a consistent crunch or worse, a gear on gear grinding noise, your clutch isn't disengaging fully.

Attack the starter from below. I use a 450 long 3/8" drive uni socket and add short extensions to clear the alternator/radiator. Do the hard bolt (top one) first, then the bottom. When re-assembling, fit the bottom bolt first and lightly nip it up to hold things in position. Top bolt should also have a metal cable clip under its head just to make things harder. You can buy "starter motor spanners" also called half moon or "C" spanners, or heat and bend a $2 Supercheap job to suit. 14mm socket is way easier though.

It's been a while since I've seen one but I'm sure the autos came from factory without a BOV?

Appreciate that, but if you look at the wiring diagram mentioned, it shows the HICAS computer and wiring, all on the same diagram.

My workshop manual wiring diagram says up the top> Cont'd Fig. No.1 C-1 4WD Vehicles. (RB20DET/RB26DETT equipped models) To me that means the same wiring between both models.

Here's one, photos may not work though. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/52997-engine-removal-guide-bnr32.html

I ran a 30 starter on my 20 forever. 30 is a geared starter though so it spins a bit slower than the 20, but it bolts up and works fine. Rb30 starter is also shorter and your standard Rb20 cable will be really stretched.

I feel for anyone who has recently purchased a new Falcon, that resale value has just hit rock bottom. Perhaps they like a big car, got a good deal, prefer a local product........whatever reason they've just done a lot of dough. But from some of the comments, it's clear history lessons are in order. We can't produce anything in Aus ???? Forget local and import everything?????.......now there's a novel idea.

Don't just check IGN timing, pull the cambelt cover and check your valve timing. Camwheels have reference marks on the back cover, balancer has TDC. Someone may have replaced the cambelt and missed a tooth.

Really need a bit more info but doesn't sound like R & R to me, more like plugs or coil packs. R & R, you'd know, jerking will put you in the windscreen. As the cooler months approach we'll see heaps of these R & R threads.

Workshop definitely got things arse about. Blown turbo = compression test BEFORE fitting new turbos. This is hardly a new occurrence for an Rb26, workshop worth its salt would know this and prepare customer for the good or bad news.

Yes what Marc said. If you've been at for this length of time without success chances are you've made a mess of any protruding part of the studs. So this means a MIG job down into the end of the stud. A lot easier in a workshop situation, car up on a hoist etc.

I've bought a few of these, fitted them to the GTSt, Aristo, Patrol in fact anything with a tin sump. The thread is M12x1.25 and is not the GTR size, which is why I still have this one in the shed. Not going to drop my oil just to prove a point but from memory the alloy sump thread is around M16.

I see what you mean, this is why I'd PM'd the chap in GTROC to check how his 33 GTR worked and it was fine. 2JZtt Aristo also has a vacuum cruise and it's nice and stable. (once you mod the electronics to make it work over 100kph). That poor little diesel, the Rd28 turbo has a throttle butterfly to pull a vacuum on overrun for the anti pollution gear, EGR etc.

The good thing is they're very simple to install and all info is shown on the hand commander. Bad things, they're a very ordinary boost controller, electronics are dated by today's offerings. They will struggle to maintain steady boost once you get over about 1.2 bar, you need to work on the actuator preload as well to get the best results. And for my money they're overpriced. I have one for the 32. (in the shed)

Should have mentioned, the one I have in the shed was previously on my son's turbo diesel Patrol, so I'm aware they work but wasn't sure if they'd be as stable as a stepper motor style. Not a problem, it worked fine. But the magnetic speed pickup is very corny, worth investigating if the stock signals can be used instead. Also the control switches really look like a cheap add-on. They offer gearstick knob buttons or a heap of other options, but they cost as much as the AP60 again.

Got one up in the shed to fit on the 32 when I get time. Didn't think a vacuum style CC would work on a boosted engine but PM'd a bloke on GTROC and his car is working great. Not an AP60 but a modded Nissan vacuum style CC on a 33 GTR. Pretty sure Chris will have CC on his 32 too when it rolls out. His install would be worth a look.

Mate all ecu equipped vehicles have a safety cut on the fuel pump. Some use a timer, others use engine oil pressure, anything to tell the ecu that the engine has stalled. Not rocket science, you don't want fuel pumping over a crash scene, that's the reason. The stock pump will prime in those 5 seconds but some aftermarket items without a non-return valve will need a few key on/offs to fully prime. Direct wiring of a street car's fuel pump is one defect I'll endorse.

Perhaps those cars had modified their electrics? You're correct, the ecu will time out the pump in about 5 seconds. Fuel pump relay should be in the boot, remove the panel in front of the number plate. You should see 2-relays, fuel pump and ATTESSA pump.

My credit card wore out.