jiffo

Do some continuity checks. To bump up the idle, Pin 19 goes to GRND. So I'd check if your black wire is a GRND and if the blue goes to Pin 19 at the ecu.

Power steer switch. Sends a signal to Pin 19 at the ecu to bump up the idle when driving slowly/parking etc.

Looks like the cable mechanism for the muffler straight-through valve. I didn't think R33's had this option but it was offered on some 32's. A bit like the Varex system but controlled by road speed, rpm etc to open up and give a straight through rear muffler. When shut you had the nice quiet muffler for city driving.

Here you go, Thanks to Bob.

You have two problems. The HICAS and power steer should clear up as soon as you fix the speedo. They both need input from the sender on the back of the speedo, the power steer will go very heavy without speedo signal input. Your miss is probably poor contact at the big blue ecu plug. With age this plug develops a bend therefore the end pins often don't make contact. I always help the plug to fully engage its end pins as I tighten the centre bolt. Seems to be worse with the PFC contacts for some reason, car runs like a Subi. Try pushing in the plug with the engine going, you'll soon tell if that's the fault.

OK you did the right thing getting insurance etc but your RWC is only good for that instant when the mechanic signed it. As soon as you left the workshop, who's to say you didn't fit back the bald wheel/tyres, big exhaust etc you previously swapped with a mate. Now I'm not suggesting that's what you did, but you can see how easily the system can be rorted and the coppers know this. If you drive a vehicle that looks sus, you can expect to get checked out and you won't drive off without a fine of some type, revenue raising is what they're about. Welcome to modified car world.

Dropping resistor for the fuel pump control modulator.

Do a couple of key on/offs to prime the system, it's the cheapest option. The ecu times out the pump after about 5 seconds and often that's not enough time to fully prime. The Bosch non-return valve is quite restricting, I'd suggest the tune will need a touch up if you fit the valve to a previously tuned fuel map.

You have two different questions happening. The lack of fuel pressure is probably your pump. Rail pressure is maintained between the fuel reg and the pump, but to do this many aftermarket pumps need a non return valve fitted. If the reg is working properly and so long as you can start without a few key on/offs don't worry about it. Pumps like an 044 are notoriously hard to start without a non return valve. The whoosh at the filler cap is often caused from a poor seal job of the reduced neck when complying. But you've also removed the carbon cannister and its associated plumbing. I'd be more concerned that the tank can breathe as fuel is removed.

Higher wattage bulbs on stock wiring...........bad idea. First step always is to fit relays, thus removing the high amperage load on the high/low dipper switch and at the same time giving full voltage to the lights. You'll immediately notice an improvement by getting decent power to your existing bulbs and with relays fitted you can then try higher wattage bulbs without the worry of melted wiring or burnt contacts on the dipper switch. If you want more illumination, try HID's on your low beams. They cut off nicely with the projectors but are illegal and you could get a defect. Go for 4300k max which produce the whitest light and it's not quite so obvious you have HID's. Fit a diode to trigger low to stay on with high for better highway night driving. Job done.

Yes, that's what happens. I've got an old Repco spark plug cleaner/testing machine. Modern workshops wouldn't waste their time with such gear but it's useful to actually see what happens when you increase cylinder pressure. Brand new plugs will perform perfectly at around 80psi but increase the pressure to 120 and they'll be breaking down. Go to 150 and you'd be surprised how poor the spark is. Close the plug gap and away you go again. Before take off aero engines drop each mag and run load conditions observing the rpm drop per mag. Poor spark equates to predictable loss of hp when under load. Showing my age but as DC3 passengers, we'd be listening for a weak cylinder as the pilot's ran up and tested each engine's mags at the end of the runway.

A quick check of the Commo wiring diagram shows its fuel pump relay is a positive trigger from the ecu, Skyline (pin 18) is negative. Multi meter will soon sort out the problem and another relay. Commo also has the oil pressure switch fuel pump safety cut out, so that circuitry should also be investigated. If you want a legal and safe conversion, you never run a fuel pump without some sort of safety cut out.

Not errors mate, just tips we've picked up over the years and a forum is the place to pass them on. Kudos to you for making this effort and posting pics with your DIY.

Just a couple of pointers. On a 5 speed box, NEVER use 5th gear. It's the weakest gear in the box. Use direct (4th) if you go this route with a GTSt. The balancer has 2-M6 x 1.0mm drilled and tapped puller holes ready for use. A jaw style puller is asking for damage to the rubber compound of the balancer's construction. Leaving the balancer bolt hanging by a few threads will also catch the balancer when it's ready to drop. The pulleys are very easy to chip if it should drop on the concrete floor. The photos show a Gates blue belt. These kevlar composition belts must be set looser than Nissan's instructions or the belt will be over tensioned when the engine reaches operating temperature.

Showing my age but back in the day when test driving a vehicle with trade plates, the salesman would pay you a dollar as a token sum to suggest you were employed by the company. Doubt if it would stand up in court but luckily I never had to find out.

When you took the top cover off, did you pack out the CAS to suit? Makes a good noise while the CAS has its guts pushed out.

GM, Ford, Toyota, Nissan etc said it couldn't be done. This bloke is amazing.

Silver Lambo Gallardo ??? Saturday arvo. Took off from the Cornubia lights bbbbig time. What a magnificient sound. Oh and a black 32 GTR today Slacks Creek area, 89-BNR, great wheels.

On my Mac Book I use Parallels plus Windows XP for programmes like AutoCad that are windoze based. Still has the odd mental though.

Grab a working known AFM from a mate and see if she goes. You've isolated the fault to either the AFM, the wiring to the AFM or an induction leak. The cheapest and easiest method of fault finding is to replace suspect items with known working examples. Don't go buying bits until you're sure.

The engine harness has multiple grounds. From memory there's the pair beside the temp sensors, another on the igniter. But when you strip back the harness you'll find they're all interconnected. Pins 10, 20, 30, 50, 60, 107, 108, 115 and 116 are all grounds but if you pin them out (with the ecu plug disconnected) you'll find they're linked. The air reg lives under the plenum. It's the cold/fast idle valve and really isn't needed in our climate as the AAC can control the engine perfectly. When you get the car running you might consider blocking the hose to the air reg thus removing the high idle problem these older cars often get from a stuck open air reg. If it starts then immediately stalls sounds like a big induction leak somewhere between AFM and throttle body. You could disconnect the AFM plug and see if it will then run in limp mode. Can you post a pic of your install, we might see something amiss.

Not sure if you're looking at the male or female plug, but checking the ground socket will clarify it. Top left > Ground. (pin 50) Top centre > Air reg. Top right > Battery power. (pin 58) Bottom left > INJ 5. (pin 110) Bottom centre > INJ 4. (pin 112) Bottom right > INJ 6. (pin 114) You need to give a lot more detail of the problem to get decent feedback. John and myself have done this job, it's not hard but there are some tricks. Have a good read through John's DIY and if you're sure you have the wiring correctly then come back to us. On a final note, make sure you've got your fuel supply and the return-to-tank lines the right way around. That's a common one to be caught out on.

The centre console aircon controls (auto amplifier) send the clutch signal straight to the ecu as an input (pin 46) The ecu sends an output (pin 9) to the clutch relay and away it all goes. This is how the ecu knows to bump up the idle via the AAC or the FICD. The ecu will also cut the aircon clutch when it decides, (from inputs like TPS, AFM, RPM) that the engine is maxed and needs a bit of help.

Not after 2nd hand or quite that sporty for this one Terry. Nearest Tojo dealer is 100k's way and although No2 son just bought a Prado from them, AND my wife taught the salesman in year 12, they couldn't do anything in the same price range. Something like a Yaris was great but they didn't want to deal. And to top it off Tojo servicing in country Qld is absolutely the pits. Need to improve their game, they're a bit complacent now that every mine vehicle wears their badge. Leaning to Hyundai for their capped price servicing, roadside assist, mega warranty.......those blokes have really done their homework.

Watching TV the other night and was inundated with 012 plate offers, so thought why not. Got three 6-cylinder cars in the garage and only one bum, might be a good time to grab something smaller. Then the fun started, price under $20K, cheap to run, easy to park etc. Mazda 2, Suzi Swift, Barina, Focus, Hyundai, Kia, Lancer, Skoda....... Forgot to mention, I was trading a mint 01 Fairmont with 95k on the clock. The Holden guy tried to sell me an ugly little bugger, thought I'd brought the wrong glasses, nothing like the Barina I saw on TV. Turned out to be something from Chev and not what i was looking for. Took the real Barina for a run, couldn't hear any conversation from the back seats at all, unbelievable road noise. Doors shut like the back gate, all up a very poorly presented effort. No thanks Mr Holden. The Suzi just felt right, Great visibility, zippy for a small engine, but unfortunately the other half said not what she was after. Mazda 2 was just 2 small for an old codger. Funny gearstick too, thought I was in a CV Citroen. Focus was not bad. I'm no Ford fan and this isn't a bad car but priced at the top end of the range for a car with rear drum brakes, just like the Barina. Anyway the upshot was Hyundai have got all the bases covered. No matter how much cash you come in with they've got a vehicle in your price range. Can't afford an i-30, how about an Accent. Still too big try the i-20. What was clear from all these 5-star ANCAP vehicles was how strongly their bodies are constructed. Sill panels would be 3X as wide as my R32's and its doors shut better than a Golf's. Airbags everywhere, what would happen if they all went off together. Electronic gizmos everywhere, cruise control, reverse cameras, blue teeth... Oh and I'm still undecided.