jiffo

Although it's a Nismo dash I'd hazard that all sensors are left as per standard. The oil pressure sender is well known for erratic behaviour, especially with the age of these cars. Nowhere near as easy to replace as on a GTSt that's for sure. Can be readily sourced from Kudos on this forum. Not a cheap part though which is why most owners opt for a stand alone aftermarket gauge, similar cost.

That's Piero's pizza shop on the corner. He'd be used to humping his ovens upstairs by now. We just got power back, has been out since Sat night. No land line phone, no mobile coverage, no internet, pretty quiet here. Dairy farmers have run out of cold storage so they're milking and then dumping. Poor cows are only getting 1-milking per day, udders look ready to explode. Gen set is now first item on my shopping list.

Silver 34 GTR ?, big wing, on the dirt Curra Estate Road this morning. Drop in next time, we can water blast off the cow shit on the ramp.

P.S. My No.2 sons drives tugs, around 5000kw's of diesel power. The operator's next order of tugs may well be hydrogen/fuel cell/electric powered. The technology is already out and about. Didn't realise just how backward we've become in Aus. did you?

There's always going to be vast wage differences, usually comes back to who you know plus being in the right place at the right time. I know of 18 years olds with no tertiary skills and they're on 120-150k, drive Maloo utes and have nothing in the bank. When the boom finishes (which it will) how will they cope with a "normal" wage and conditions? Apprenticeships for 30 year olds are rare and the apprentice wage is a fraction of what they've become used to. People say our population can't sustain a local car industry. Perhaps they should check countries like Sweden, not a problem for them and they also have a home grown aviation industry. Deja vu??? Investigate Aus. back in the 50's, an aircraft industry, fledgling car industry, aluminium, steel, glass and lots more. As for Holden/Ford, I think 2016 is extremely optimistic. The Aus designed vehicles they have on offer are from a previous age. Where's their hydrogen cars? Forget Hybrids in Aus, we need a good cruising range in a package that offers more room than a baby Smart. Honda are already there with their FCX, might need some tweaking but they're still miles ahead of Mitsu etc who are trying to sell old technology.

Some strange replies here so I'll add mine. While the car is running, fuel is circulating in the rail at pressure controlled by the fuel reg. Turn the engine off and the rail stays at pressure, maintained by the fuel reg at one end and the fuel pump at the other. All good. Now heat soak the fuel rail and that petrol will quickly expand, it has nowhere to go but to open the fuel reg and discharge to the tank. The noise you're hearing is the pressurised fuel slowly bleeding through the reg back to the tank until rail pressure has stabilised. Nobody else experienced vapour lock back in the old carby days?

Silver R35 GTR on Purcell Road this arvo. Things are looking up at Curra.

A good clean example should always command top dollar. Keeping one in good order is the hard and expensive bit. Won't be long before new parts just won't be available, I'm amazed they still stock so many parts for a vehicle designed 25 years ago. But look at the Mustang, over a million made and a pretty ordinary sort of car. Try to buy a good one here in Aus, very hard to come by. Question is could your money work harder for you than investing it in an old sports car, bit of a no-brainer really.

Clearly my PC is of a vintage too old for frequenters of this section. Looks like it's off to town.

Bought a new hdd for the old PC but my version of XP doesn't recognise the new SATA drive. No use changing BIOS settings either, there's just no SATA drivers inside. Been on the net for ages and it looks like it has to be either slipstream or floppy. Floppy is more my speed, slipstream confused me very early on. So I'm after SATA drivers suitable for use on a floppy if anyone can help. Even the VIA site's drivers take up 10Mb, so not suitable for a floppy.

Yes 32's have up/down and in/out adjustment. From memory it's a big job to remove the whole column, some dreadful stuff down at the bottom. The bolts that mount the column to the bodywork are specially designed to shear in an accident, I don't think they "undo". You photos don't show the adjusting levers, just the broken IGN lock.

The hydraulic unit is mounted on a frame above the diff. The unit comprises the 12V hydraulic pump, a nitrogen charged accumulator, the pressure switch and the solenoid valve. All components are mounted on a cast alloy manifold and can be individually removed/replaced. (The accumulator will need specialist knowledge to remove) There are 2-electrical plugs. One has 2-pins and is the power for the pump. The other has 4-pins?? for the solenoid valve and the pressure switch. Unsure of your exact fault but it might pay to check the 4-pin plug first to be sure the message from the pressure switch is getting to the pump relay. These components (apart from the nitrogen accumulator) give excellent service, it's rare to have any fails unless the oil has become contaminated in same way.

Denso, they make all things for aircon. Why not just source one from a half cut, must be plenty around.

Here's mine.

Here you go. I used this when I dropped an Rb20 into my old R31 farm jigger.

Best thing you've learned is to ignore suggestions unless they're from a 32 GTR owner. GTSt's guys have no idea what it's like. Even 33 GTR owners have it easier, no HICAS valve bank on the chassis rail. Screwdriver........tell him he's dreaming. Conventional strap type tools are useless. Even if you actually get one on the filter you can't move the handle, NO BLOODY ROOM. That tool as linked to e-bay is the go. Add 3/8" extensions until you're happy. Good thing is the next one will be a piece of the proverbial.

Pull it down again. Check carefully that you haven't got the tensioner spring caught between the tensioner and the block causing the tensioner to sit cocked over.

34 GTR with trade plates at Gold City Suspension this am. Congrats.

Not in my experience. Without a start signal the ecu can't reset the timer function, one try and that's it.

It must already have Pin43 start signal input, otherwise you could crank forever and it's never going to start. Have you checked the fuel isn't draining back to the tank when the engine is off? Some fuel pumps need a non return valve. (Bosch 044 etc)

Badben your sig say's you drive a 32 GTR. You mustn't do much night driving. Get any modern car behind an old R32 at night and the 32 driver is driving in his own shadow. Unfortunately their headlamp design is 20+ years old. Add the sad wiring design and you've got poor lights, especially on low beam. But fitting 6500+ HID's is just asking for trouble from the law who can pick the way overblue colour a mile off. And what driver wants to be blinded by road sign reflection from his your own lights. Stay with 4300 max. on low beam only.

Dobz is correct. Pin 18 grounds to trigger the fuel pump relay. Don't forget your ecu will time out after 5-odd seconds, so then no more signal to the fuel pump. You have to trip the start signal for the fuel pump timer to re-start.

Try in the Queensland/Townsville section, lots of good guys up there sure to help you out.

I found these are very good, especially on the GTR where there's no room for a conventional type. Make sure it's well made, there's a lot of cheap stuff that simply won't do the job.

We're talking about a car perhaps 20 years old and probably still running the original driveline components, despite who knows how many high rpm clutch dumps. My money is on the propshaft universal joint and that's a specialist repair job. Not replaceable due to the peened-in design but still they perform extremely well. However if you load them up heaps, the worn needles won't be happy and hello vibrations.