jiffo

But before you do any of that, shove some bungs in those open intercooler pipes or your engine's going to be eating bits of wire offcuts.

Doesn't look like the normal Rb oil pressure sensor, looks more like an ordinary oil light switch???? And at, $20 sounds like an oil pressure warning light switch.

Unless you want to be checking coolant level constantly, go for genuine hoses. All silicon hoses weep. But if you must have silicon, don't pay more than $200 for the kit, they're Chinese and you'll find the diameters are all over the place, tend to slip off the barb when using the factory hose clamp. Have an Autobahn brand set in the shed and it's staying there, maybe some might fit the tractor????

Sounds like the high/low dipper switch. They give trouble with age and can be repaired if you're keen. But unless you address the woeful wiring design it will fail again. These cars switch full amperage at the high/low dipper switch, it's not switched by relays. When guys fit 100w bulbs or even worse, mod the dip switch to switch low on with high there's not much hope. To fix the car you need to modify the factory wiring and install relays to do the switching. Then your dip switch will only be switching the trigger load, which is tiny. Also fit a diode to trigger low to stay on with high. You'll see a vast improvement in the lights as voltage drop is eliminated. Fit 4500K max HID's to low beam if you have the projector style and with low + high the highway illumination is excellent. Retain conventional halogen bulbs for high so they switch on quickly unlike the HID's. Here's my fuse box showing the extra relays and diode. Job isn't difficult, probably half a day, you need to source factory relays so it all looks the part.

As Femno said, that's also your check engine light. Better see if your ecu is using that function.

You're not looking at the air reg. resistor are you? Maybe a photo?

And lock the crank at TDC of the cylinders you're working on. If s**t can happen it will and that means head off to recover a valve. Add a gasket set, valve and seat grind, head surface etc the job has blown out big time. These engines are at the stage where the valve stem seals are as hard as wood. Snap on have the right gear for those collets, easy peasy.

Interesting. But an Rd28 is 85 bore x 83 stroke. To use that same stroke and still make the 3.5 litres claimed you're around 95 bore which would be hard to achieve on a 28, so I guess it's also stroked? Why not just go the 30 route as per Rob? He's achieved fantastic numbers from very ordinary components. Think there's more to this build than the Boost article mentions.

I tossed an Rb30 head gasket onto an Rd28 block a while ago, you'd need your own machine shop to get those two to line up. Unsure if the 28 crank can fit in the 30 block either, really couldn't be bothered. There's plenty of much easier options around.

No I'm not a ZD30 fan, but truth be told I'm not too fussed on the Patrol. Really Nisan's attitude to the ZD30 is atrocious. I feel for the poor buggers who buy into one of these and then are stuck with it. See yet another guy on the Patrol forum trying to decide whether to fix or flog off, always the same dilemma. Toss in another ZD for around $10k or go for the Duramax at $20k min. Over capitilizing perhaps???? LS1 also makes a lot of sense but why should owners have to go through any of this hassle with a relatively new vehicle. Haven't even mentioned the 5th gear fails and the usual DMF dramas, bent front axle beam........ Getting a tad off topic.

Agree, don't think it does too much until engine temp gets high. Stock Datalogit numbers I think? IGN V's IAT shows 0 correction at 50 degrees down to -5 correction at 70 degrees. INJ V's IAT shows 100% at 40 degrees, 112% at 70 degrees and 120% at 100 degrees. And the probe is always heat soaked, never seen mine less than 50 when running which is in the vicinity of the zero and 100% spots.

Nope the CRD's are starting to go. Has taken a bit longer than the DI's but with the hopeless engine management trying to hold the variable vane turbo it was inevitable. Mind you there will always be the odd trouble free vehicle with high milage, but they're rare. Thanks a lot Mr Renault. Go to the Patrol forum and see the monitoring gear those blokes fit, AND watch very carefully in the hope of preserving their egg shell. A bit like driving a steam engine with a rusted out boiler. Again an engine with ceramic glow plugs in the combustion chamber. Lose the tip and there goes your bore, ring lands and soon after, the piston. No apparent reason, out of the 4-plugs, one or two will be perfect, the others have been eaten. Must be nice for the turbo too. My theory is the clock angle of the pintle valve, some must be spraying directly onto the glow. Patrol is still the cheapest large 4X so there's a huge market, especially the 80kph speed limited grey nomads. Anyone who's experienced the Patrol death wobble can imagine those old arthritic knuckles gripping the wheel, I give them a very wide berth. They don't want the resale value of their vehicle to diminish, thus you don't get the true story from a forum, have to visit some workshops and mention the dirty ZD30 word. I see guys in Spain are "improving" the engine by chucking the balance shafts, using a conventional wastegate turbo plus loads of other work............. but it's hard to get a nice shine on a turd, hey. Meanwhile you can buy a 4-cylinder Isuzu or a Cummins that just works, not the head-in-the-sand Nissan approach. With a different but extremely common fault, check this happy customer.

The injectors on an Rd28 are on the driver's side of the head. It's not a cross flow head so both the inlet and exhaust manifolds are on the same side, that's the passenger side. They also have the glow plugs beside the injectors just to add to the hassles.

The Rd28 Patrol guys go to an Rb25 or a 25/30 when the Rd craps itself. They're just so expensive to overhaul for so little output. By far the most common failing is a loose balancer which damages the crank. After that would be cracked head due to overheating because the driver continually has the foot flat to the floor. The Gu has a special 3-bolt turbo flange so you won't find anything decent off the shelf. The Gq has a "normal" 4-bolt flange. They're your typical ceramic turbo but being a diesel they don't work too hard. Now the funny thing is if you've got an Rd that is problem free, you can buy a $200 "donator" chip which is a real improvement. Add a full 3" exhaust and a better dump, wind up the boost and it will get up and go. They'll rev out to 5000 smooth as glass, nothing happening below 2000 of course but still when the smoke clears, people will ask, "What the hell was in that thing." Then if you've got money to burn, drop in a V8 Duramax with Allison box. Add some boost and there's not much that will come close.

Mate your EPA info is way off. Diesels have just the same hassles with emissions as petrol engines, plus they have the particulate problem solved with either Ad-Blu or the ecu controlled particulate filter on the exhaust. And complicated, all the same inputs as your petrol engine, AFM, TPS, Crank angle, cam angle, injector needle lift sensor, coolant temp sensor, fuel temp sensor, inlet air temp........just to name a few. Next add our poor quality diesel to a CRD and you're in all sorts of trouble. Your choice of the old Rd28 is such a dreadful example. Sure the bellhousing will bolt up but what an archaic engine design, it's got pre-combustion chambers FFS!!!!! It was fitted as the taxi engine in some 33's and others but it's truly a turd. Single OHC and not even a cross flow head. There are much better engines around than this old lump.

3-plugs:

Don't the series 2's have a pull type clutch?

Think their postal rates have taken a hike. Bought some small tractor parts last week and the cheapest USPS rate was $70 per pound, no longer economical to buy from the US unless you're looking for a pallet load.

This is when a UFH is so handy. As a long retired trucky I can assure you I've yet to meet the driver who climbed into his cab and said, "Let's go run some cars off the road." There's always some reason he's cranky with you. So get on the UHF and ask the question, "Hey Richers B double, what's up your nose?" You might get an earful from a Skyline hater or he might let you know that you cut him off back a few K's, either way you'll get educated. I've been doing heaps of highway driving lately and I've found the quality of today's big rig drivers to be excellent. They have 1,000,000 times more patience than I ever had. When I'm on the highway, I sit on the back end of a big rig. Tell the driver who I am, ask if he minds me sitting there, then we just cruise at 100 to 105. He'll be talking to his mates so we all know where the highway patrols and cameras are. Hassle free travel.

32 GTR is extremely tight to work around, but fitting a ring gear stopper takes only a few minutes, well worth the time. With the battery disconnected, use a 3/8" drive 14mm universal long extension coming in from above the alternator. Remove the top bolt completely before starting on the lower bolt. Swing the starter clear, no need to remove any cables it will jamb up there nicely. Fit the ring gear stopper. Mine has one hole completely slotted so I can engage/disengage the stopper by loosening the bolts and then rotate it out of mesh with the ring gear. I can fit a cam belt, spin the crank a few times and re-engage the stopper, all very quickly. Installation is just the reverse. Fit the lower bolt first and nip it up before offering up the top bolt via the long socket. There's a cable clip under the head of the bolt to add to the hassles. There are special "C" spanners or "half moon" spanners designed for starter bolts but a socket + long extension works much faster. I can assure you, there's a lot harder jobs on a 32 GTR than fitting a ring gear stopper.

That would be T-Mac Auto Spares, down the gully in Power Street.

Denmark, 52% income tax, 25%GST?????? Must have fantastic medical, dental, pension etc, etc.

Shiny Red 33 at Centro, Gympie this arvo. Mega noise, N/A?????

I'm happy you're convinced yourself, but ........ I've no idea what your prussian blue man was trying to prove, surely he didn't think a helical gear has full face contact across 3+ teeth simultaneously. I mean really? Helical gear contact is a moving point load across multiple teeth at varying positions on each tooth as the gear rotates. Thus you have the load spread over a larger periphery of each gear than a spur gear which is fully loaded in one small section. Factors such as helix angle, module and PCD's will be altered by the designer to achieve the most economical outcome. Perhaps a Skyline owner could imagine it thus: Put a jack under your chassis rail, start jacking and its going to buckle the rail. OR Place a piece of timber on the jack to spread the load and it won't buckle the rail so easily. OR Place 3 or 4 jacks under your chassis rail, again the load is spread over a larger area. Like I said previously all big gearing is helical, for a reason. Small automotive spur gears are also made for a reason.

Yep Warps, perhaps my dragline choice was not the best. Last company I worked for made shafts/gearing as replacements for draglines, chiefly Bucyrus Erie. Lots of double helical stuff but grossly under designed. Replacing some gearing monthly due to the duty cycle we push machinery in Aus. Tiny gearing that looked so out of place in a massive machine. The sugar milling stuff was the real deal, especially gearing sent overseas where local managers work their mills much harder than they were ever designed for. They'd push the cane through though until eventually a massive choke up, all the roller's stalled. So they go and open up ALL the valves on the turbine, back up the rollers and then gun it ahead and watch those rollers chew there way through until she clears, you have to trust your gearing. Unfortunately the O/S managers don't turn those extra valves back off on the turbine so next time they get a choke it's a dig out job. Only small double helical stuff I've come across is bull gear reduction in truck diffs. Pretty horrible, never heard double helical run nicely unless the pinion is allowed to float on its shaft. Again the tooling costs outweigh any advantages.