jiffo

You could also check the bulbs. The aluminium bulb mount (2-screws) differs for the projector type. Pre 91> low H3C, high H3 Post 91> low H1, high H3 N1> high/low H4, fog H3C

Don't forget there were 2-projector styles as well as the N1. Pre 91 has the ring around the projector. Post 91 doesn't.

Nice sparkling clean silver/grey 4 door R34 Southbound from Caboolture turnoff yesterday, might have had a pink number plate. I'd forgotten how good a 4-door can look.

Most of these replies presume the OP's noise is worn bigends, so more info is needed. My thoughts are the new oil has dislodged some gunk and now he's got a sticky lifter. OP needs to get his noise diagnosed correctly, perhaps post a u-tube so we can hear it.

You say they fire up and time out prior to start so to me that says their relay is working fine. Next is the afterglow period. The glows will run on after start-up, for a period determined by the ecu from time and coolant temp input. This is why you need a temporary warning light wired in, to see if the glows are staying on constantly once the engine reaches operating temp. I'd use a LED so it will still work down at low voltage. Often the afterglow runs down to reduced voltage, but I'm not familiar with the Ford system. Likewise I don't know the correct voltage for your glows, it would be easy for you to check via their part number.

Aircon system has approx 650 grams of refrigerant, so I can't see anyone coming around to buy your gas. Take the car to an aircon shop and they might de-gas it for you. Might even fit some proper bungs to block the pipework if you ask nicely.

Nope that's just for initial start, shows the engine is ready to go but doesn't tell you if power still going to the glows according to the ecu's settings. Afterglow is usually on a reducing voltage and is engine coolant dependant as well as time, all decided by the ecu. Might pay to check that the relay's contacts aren't cooked on, do the simple stuff first.

Bloody glow plugs. Don't understand why these things are needed in modern high speed diesels, yet they all have them. Must be for initial start-up emissions. Are they ceramic or metal. Ceramic are a worry, they fall to bits in your cylinder and that's bad. 1. Fit a temporary warning light to the glow circuit so you can tell when they're on or off. 2. Diesels run colder when lean, opposite to petrol. 3. ECU usually controls the glow and afterglow. If you fit a warning light you'll know what's going on.

Don't you guys watch the news. With all the recent rain those roads are rooted. Stick it on a transporter, let them take the potholes.

Might have a PFc with the rev limit wound down ??

RBT's must be the ultimate power trip. Returning late home last December, turned onto our country road and at the most ridiculous spot on a curve, here's a cop car with the lights flashing. Thought there must be an accident but no, 2-officers were conducting RBT's. Nowhere to pull over, no shoulder just a massive grader cut drain in the water table. So I'm sitting on the road and blowing in the gadget, me facing one way and him facing the other. When we're done, I said that he was not visible (driving against his headlights) until we were almost on him, the only clue being his flashing lights reflecting in the trees. I also told him that the B double milk tanker which services our farms would not stop as quickly as our Commo did from the 80k speed limit. He asked me to move on, no thanks, no brains. No glass there next day, guess i worried over nothing.

To me it's pretty clear. Skyline is waiting for that car with the reverse lights on to pull out and thus to grab the park. Must have been waiting for a long time so he gets out and goes over to the car to see if the park will eventuate. Truck driver has had enough and decides to go around, jumps the divider which prompts Skyline guy that he's probably blocked the road long enough. Truck driver then finds his road blocked by various signs. Reverses back with increasing fury almost cleaning up Skyline guy. Rage then takes over and truck driver has always wanted to drive a dozer. Anyway..............

Perhaps try the Patrol 4X4 forum. Guys there would be looking at the ZD30 also made in China by Dong Feng who sell a few other "name" engines. Not sure about the Iveco though, Fiat engine made from all over the continent.

I've never seen one as bad as that. I'm concerned about welsch plugs and any other dissimilar metal components. Have a check that all the earths are connected engine to chassis. Haven't got an alloy radiator have you?

Too much tyre. Compared to the stocker that's a lot of tyre, wonder where the offset has moved to. AND some tread patterns just love to tramline. Try increasing the pressure to see if it improves.

Just use the hand commander and pull a couple of degrees timing out of it until you can do a complete fill with 98. Go Settings then Ign/Inj and take some timing out of it. These temporary changes are deleted as soon as you turn the engine off, all good, tune is unaltered. That's what this function is for, trial tweaks that can be instantly erased.

Check your alternator is up to the job. GTR's draw a lot of current, specially when the ATTESSA pump cuts in. Most old GTR's have lost the charge in the accumulator so the ATTESSA pump runs way too much. Add the wattage of headlights, stoplights, wipers and so on then see how much the alternator is pumping out on idle, you may be in for a shock. Remember the alternator's rated output (90amps) is not at idle. Mine couldn't keep up, ATTESSA light would come on periodically as it pumped up pressure. Changed to 35W low beam HID's and that gave me enough headroom for everything to work OK. Still it's a sign that in my case the original 21 year old alternator is getting a bit sad.

House at Duke Street, Gympie. Grey 32, aftermarket FM, front number plate over to the left, buried under tree litter. That stuff turns into compost in your air vents, not too good for the paintwork either.

Are you sure it's the correct pump? That's the small 6mm bolt that doesn't line up Rb25 V's Rb20, 26 and 30. There's blue sealant visible so perhaps the wrong pump was fitted ???

From the manual>

That puller won't suit an Rb balancer. You need a 2-bolt cross head or a purpose built plate puller. Easy to make, puller hole centres on an Rb25 are 75mm, puller holes in the balancer are M6 x 1.0mm. http://www.skylinesa...em-t169471.html

O.P.'s car is auto, not manual.

I can fit the ring gear stopper on the GTR in a couple of minutes. No need to actually remove the starter from the car, just disconnect the battery terminals, remove starter bolts and swing it clear, cables and all. Remove the difficult bolt completely first before you slacken off the easy one. 450 long x 3/8" drive universal extension can be bought from any tool supply, then add shorter extensions until you clear the alternator and can swing the brace. I made my ring gear stopper, not difficult but in my opinion it's essential considering the torque required on the Rb26 balancer bolt. ( 330-340 ft lbs) I have heard that one of the clutch slave cylinder holes lines up with the ring gear. A modified long bolt with the end machined down can then be screwed into the hole and engaged in the ring gear. Not for me but a GTSt has a LOT less torque (105-115 ft lbs) on the balancer bolt so it could suit your situation.

Remove the starter and fit a ring gear stopper. It's not a GTR so the starter is easy to get at. Use a long socket extension and come from the front. Easy as.

Oxygen sensor is constantly comparing oxygen levels inside the pipe against the air outside. Sensor in the dump eliminates any chance of contamination from stray exhaust. Car in a dyno cell with that big fan working can have some dead air around the rear bar so probably not the best spot for the sensor even though it is the easiest.