jiffo

Yes and that LJ80 is the good one, the LJ50 was a lot worse. Both have gone to a better place.

Sooks???? I've had my share of rust. It'll buff right out though.

This needs investigation. Once there's visible bleeding from seams, it's a worry.

GTSt has a side mount. GTR has the front mount. Download the workshop manuals to sort out questions, readily available for these cars.

Here's the installation manual, might be handy to look at the pictures. HKS steel drain pipe supplied in kit connects to stock Nissan hose OK.

Threads like this pop up all the time and in this case it's clear the OP has made the smart choice, leave the 32 for someone else. I'm amazed how it's always engine and driveline that gets the replies, apparently no-one notices the general wear and tear on a 20+ year old car. Replacing those items is way up there with an engine rebuild, if you want it to look new again. Door rubbers, glass rubbers, DASH, door cards, seats, engine bay hoses, various clips, wheel bearings, suspension components and a thousand more........... That's presuming it hasn't been molested by some previous owner who thought he knew more than Nissan. This stuff that costs real money as you have 2-choices, genuine or 2nd hand and good luck sourcing as-new condition 20 year old components. Then there's the rust worry and anyone who knows where to look will find rust (or where it was) somewhere on a 32. If you're in love with an original 32 GTR, prepare for a long search and a high price tag. For starters read Chris's project build.

AAC. Helps to stay with the Nissan convention for these parts, saves confusion.

Top pic is the air regulator. It gives the engine a fast idle during warm up. The 12V bi-metallic strip air valve gradually closes and by then your engine should be warm. In my opinion not needed here is Aus. Had my cars with ice on them from cold start and the AAC would still control idle fine. Just another item to go crazy and give you a high idle. Bottom pic is the AAC valve. It controls your idle speed via a varying duty cycle signal from the ecu. Both valves plumb into the idle air circuit upstream of the throttle body. Depending on your car, the AAC may also do the idle bump-up for aircon or power steer actuation.

The manual will lead you astray, so use your own common sense. Rotate your crank slightly passed TDC so there's no chance of pushing valves into No6. Cams like to move to their "happy" spot while they're going down, that's why you do the job off TDC. With the crank suitably passed TDC, you can test rotate your cams too. Lube up the cam journals. Caps are all marked/numbered but it pays to double check everything. Pulling down the caps, you'll quickly see some caps have no load, others are working hard. Watch you don't get carried away with the easy ones. A mate can spot you along the cam for an even pull down. Have your mate spot you across the caps too so you don't pull one side down more than the other. With all caps down but not torqued, remove No1 cap and do the sealant. Don't go crazy with sealant or you'll block the oil drain back slots. Torque down your caps. Take it easy with all these puny bolts/nuts.

Sure look the same as an R32, but the only way to be sure is to Fast the part numbers unless someone on the 300ZX forum can help. Great bunch of enthusiasts over there. http://www.aus300zx.com/forum/showthread.php?t=298614 Ask for the recipes.

Or you can line the dots on each camwheel with their corresponding timing marks on the back cover. Balancer, first mark at TDC.

Exactly right, especially the 1/4" drive which infuriates me by constantly switching itself to no ratchet. But you can't tell this from the net, has to be hands on.

If you want gear that's right for the job, you can't buy it on the net. You need to hold it, feel the weight and especially the length of ring/open enders. Used some Stahwille ringies and they're just way too long. You'll break everything using such over engineered spanners. Check the offset on the head, sometimes you want it flat, other times you need the offset to work the spanner, usually means you need a selection of spanners to cover everything. Special purpose spanners like Starter spanners (half moon, C) are so handy but their price has to weighed up against the frequency of use. But most of all forget the A/F offerings unless you particularly work with SAE stuff. Companies fill up their sets with A/F to look good but you rarely use them and they just add clutter. Sidchrome are finally selling full metric socket sets. (model 19230 is very handy) Sure Snap-On has the name but its cost is way out there. Dad has some Snap-On stuff, sockets must be over 70 years old. As for the lifetime guarantee, it seems companies require proof of purchase these days, so keep that docket.

Yep, rare and expensive. I wanted to build one up with Sierra running gear, but couldn't find an affordable Mighty Boy as a base. Next option was a tough Suzi van with the 4x4 gear, but I came to my senses.

I like the cooler as high as I can mount it, right up close to the lights. The pipework will fall into place. I made my own brackets for the bottom, ground off the two top tapping blocks and used a single mount at the centre instead which raised it up approx 25-30mm. The black chassis car is showing the position for standard brackets.

No Duncan, the wiring he's lost is for the twin orifice power assist switching, not the fast idle bump-up switch. (which assists while parking etc.) Without this twin orifice switch wiring, the power steer stays in fail safe mode. (heavy steering)

Yep. Going to need something completely different to the standard setup, external air source like the big diesels...... or just forget the whole idea and drive with your foot.

Every few metres doesn't sound like gearbox, sounds more like diff. Have another listen to the rear diff.

Agreed, computer controlled solenoid operated poppet valves offers the best technology, but I have a feeling it's all a bit too late for the internal combustion engine. Same goes for these guys> http://www.coatesengine.com/

As most Skylines have the Valet option for the boot, obvious spot for any fuel pump kill switch is in the boot. The normal boot release isn't going to open the boot so you have another layer of security.

Parks on driver's side.

As Marc said, driving habits are the first thing to address if you want to see better fuel usage. As for oxygen sensors, again, they do absolutely NOTHING if your driving style is heavy. Do some Googling re-oxygen sensors and you'll see there are many factors that must be satisfied before the ecu will even go to closed loop. For the majority of time you're running in open loop (no feedback) and the oxygen sensor input is ignored. Biggest joke out, replacing oxygen sensors and then driving pedal to the metal. As your problem is somewhat recent, my first look would be coolant temp sensor. But don't just replace stuff willy-nilly, pay the $$$ to get everything professionally checked.

My 32 came with a HKS turbo timer which I quickly removed. The easiest for you is to buy the HKS patch harness, NT-1. It has the plug for the timer and the male/female plugs to join to the standard Nissan plug under the steering column. Guess that's why people suggest it's easier to steal, but you'd still have to overcome the immob. items.

Know any products that remove road line marking paint but that don't destroy the car's paint? Can't drive anywhere in Qld without the existing road marking being changed. Don't fix the road, just paint it up with pretty reflectors every 10 metres.

Also might have to swap the back covers across and check for ABS. (long or short pinion nose)