jiffo

Well actually it's both. The drive from the exhaust cam is a spline, but there is also a locating lug incorporated in the spline which aligns with it's mating half on the CAS. The locating lug means you can only fit the CAS back onto the spline in the one spot. But if for some reason the lug has been removed or damaged, you can still run the CAS perfectly as it's driven by the spline. You just need to work out it's correct position and away she'll go.

Come on Sarge, it's do-able. Lots of Rb25's driving around with the braided waterline kit, but I agree it's a bastard of a position. Perhaps more swearing is needed. Works for me.

No myth John. You were going the wrong way if you wanted to test it out. Set your boost way low, say 0.4 bar then give it a try. The turbo will easily/quickly boost over approx 0.7 bar and you'll then experience the cut. (Cut occurs if actual boost exceeds set boost by >0.25kg/cm3) At normal boost settings, you'll rarely see the cut.

If the 33 is anything like a 32 then it's a headlight out job. Stock airbox makes it pretty crowded in there too. Once you've installed the new bulb, do a check before you completely fit everything back as often the bulb can be a bit crooked, yet still fit in OK. Big job to remove it all again just because the bulb isn't seated right home.

No Adam, a little skinny long bolt like that will be the power steer tensioner or maybe the alternator tensioner. Aircon tensioner would fall straight out on the road and the alternator pivot bolt is a decent diameter. (17mm head with a 14mm nut) I'd put money on the power steer tensioner, impossible to see etc etc.

Gates belt, too tight. You can't leave it like that, have to strip it down and ease the belt tension.

M16x1.5

Look in the ashtray. After trying countless tyre shops for exactly the same problem, that's where I found mine , nicely wrapped in bubble wrap to stop rattles.

1. Reverse lights 2. Neutral switch.

Brown plug is AAC. Purple plug is aircon idle bump.

Haven't seen that done for over 20 years, but yep that's what some guys did, MIG a washer to the yoke thus holding the uni sort of roughly in position. These day you will see the yokes machined to accept circlips, don't like the idea as there's not much meat left once it's machined. Best to take the whole show to a shafting shop and they'll make you up a new shaft with replaceable uni joints. Will cost a LOT more than a 2nd hand shaft of course.

Like Terry, I'm 60+. But how cute is an 18-month and a 3-year old picking out Poppy's GTR Skyline (with baby seats) at the shops.

The variable vane turbo on the ZD30 is a bad example with Nissan's poor electronic control causing over boost. Unless the operator is watching his instruments, this fragile engine doesn't last long. Garrett and Holsett are having sticky vane problems in diesel applications, unlike the Cat C-15 which runs a conventional wastegate controlling the series mounted turbos. Looks complicated but works. Once they go, Cummins ISX operators are ditching the variable vane turbo in favour of much cheaper and reliable internal wastegate versions. Clearly a lot more R&D required by turbo manufacturers.

Here's the real deal. Dale's looks just as good but that one of Simmo87's has a 6-bolt flange???

Here's another, IBS part No: IBS-JB4215

Check your fan clutch.

Just because the half moon locator has snapped doesn't mean he needs a new cam. The CAS drives from the spline and if you can't initially get it as close as 1-spline out you need to give the game away. Once you've got it running and have worked out which way the CAS has to move on the spline to keep the CAS within the adjustment slots, pull the CAS, rotate it and put it back. Some aftermarket ECU's need far more advance than the stock CAS position allows, so the locator has to be removed to get the CAS around sufficiently. Try a bit harder.

Don't forget the front assembly has 2-globes, 1-facing the front and another to the side. If the small side bulb is not operating, your flasher speed will much faster.

Good outcome. Always pays to talk to the man at the top. Time for apologies from the Nissan minions????

Yes just a warning noise, nothing else. A couple of hours at 110 on a freeway is usually enough make them hoarse.

Did you get this one looked at? http://www.skylinesa...eo-and-help-me/ Sounds bad to me, I'd be concentrating on it ASAP.

Sounds like the speed chime. When they finally die from driving long distances over 100kph, they clunk, click etc. Remove the dash clucter and on the back you should see the chime box. (circled) Remove the chime box and its 2-wires, job done.

Nope the CRD's also grenade, just taking a bit longer to show up. Looks like the end is nigh for this horrible engine. (rumours of a petrol V8 ???) Actually the Patrol must surely be ready for the chop, it's so out of touch with that ancient front end. (google Patrol death wobbles) Navara has become very popular. You're right about the dash bubbles, it's not a recall, the owners have to chase Nissan via their dealer to get any satisfaction.

Where did you get it, an auto electrician? Looks the same as the Chinese e-bay job I recently bought for my tractor. They're a reduction starter and come in many models to suit different pinions, flanges and so on. I'd guess the pinion and flange are correct but the body is too big to physically fit? They're certainly cheap, nearly $2000 for a Yanmar replacement and cost $400 for the Chinese one.

Hadn't heard too much about the Navara's (apart from their electronic 4WD problems) until I tripped over that complaints site. But have seen a heap of ZD30 Patrols (the grenade) with very unhappy owners. Nissan has left them high and dry. Amazing, they get bubbles in the dash, same as the old R32's only a hell of a lot worse. If you're persistant enough and still have some warranty, Nissan will cough up with a new dash.