jiffo

Having a quick look here: http://www.motorsm.com/complaints/latest.asp The common problem seems that dealers don't understand their product. Poor buggers with Navara's, Patrols etc who aren't too mechanically minded have to dig deep to pay Nissan's "Guess what's wrong game'. Anything concerning electronics (and the modern car has lots of them) and dealers just start replacing bits. I do my own servicing, always have, but when I get to the age where I have to pay someone to maintain my vehicle, it won't be to a dealership.

What's the bet this one gets settled, with a confidentiality clause, way before September. http://www.heraldsun...x-1226018034109

If you're about to fit new headlight bulbs, better check your adjusters are working. Here's the back view of the right headlamp, the low beam adjusters are circled blue, high beam circled red. The low beam adjusters are simply a threaded rod which tilts the reflector and some WD40 will help them to move nicely. The high beam adjusters have a small gearbox to tilt the reflector. Inside the gearbox is a bevel gear driving a gear on the end of the threaded rod, which again tilts the reflector. As you can see the drive gear splits on its shaft and so no more adjustment.

I've run a 20 BOV on a 25 and vise versa. Made no difference.

It only just struck me, but that's the first thing anyone thinks of these days, digital cameras and mobile phones all make it happen instantly. This wasn't really all that long ago, maybe 25+ years but there weren't many mobile phones and cameras still used film. Cost $$$ to get processed too. Guess that's why my folks have about 5 black/white photos of me as a kid, I have a couple of hundred of my kids growing up and already they have a couple of terabytes of photos of their kids, who are still pre-school. Next generation is going to need some mega-big storage.

If it's just after a cold start, check your alternator belt, it maybe a bit loose. On initial start, the alternator is trying to re-charge the battery so the load on the drive belt is substantial. All the belts have to come off to do this job so it makes sense to check them again after the car has done a few K's.

That's your Air Reg.(cold start fast idle valve) Car will run fine without it PROVIDED the air hoses are re-connected properly. Otherwise you'll have a huge air leak and she won't go. My guess is it's been by-passed previously (aftermarket plenum perhaps) and finally decided to fall off.

Such an old thread OP must have sorted/sold the problem by now. Sounds typical of the accumulator needing a re-charge.

Sorry Duncan, this was back in the 80's and the boss would have sacked me if I'd got out a camera. That old Merc was in the panel shop so fast. I gave him a lift in the Belmont and then we used her to tow the roller around. 161 power.

Ages ago my boss asked me to help him borrow a pavement roller from his mate. We hooked up the roller's tandem skel trailer onto his 280SEL and while he drove the roller, I tossed dirt onto the ramps to stop it skidding as smooth drums slip very easily. Anyway he gave it some and up she went, right to the front........... and then he pulled the vibrate lever instead of the throttle. She climbed up over the spare and kept going along the drawbar into the boot. Bits of trailer rattling off onto the ground, spare crushed, bent drawbar, front drum chewing up against the rear window by the time it all stopped. Disaster.

Correct, silly topic that has lost the plot. As the O.P. has a GTR, he must be familiar with its many flaws. Man-up and agree that Toyota can make good and bad products, just as Nissan can. Once you shift the topic to modified engines, the length of string theory applies but............ If you want to mod a 2JZ cheaply, there's lots of options: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TOYOTA-2JZ-GT45-TURBO-KIT-SUPRA-SC300-IS300-2JZ-GTE-14P-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a0d4c4903QQitemZ180611729667QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Funny thing Terry, our Dunnydoor has a ding on each side/rear exactly where the Hobie would poke its nose if turned too tightly. We didn't do them, previous owner must have been a crook reverser.

For those who don't have access to Snap-On gear, use an El-cheapo flare nut spanner with vise grips around the spanner to stop it expanding and thus slipping over the castellations. A fault often overlooked with old brake hoses is that they shrink internally with age. So they're OK when applying the brakes but ever so slow to return the fluid to the master cylinder, causing dragging brakes.

I have no idea why someone would pay good money for a brand new Falcon/Commodore, but 2nd hand, that's a no-brainer. They're dirt cheap and no problem to insure. 3rd party property damage, fire and theft insurance and she's ready to roll for around $150 annually. Immobilisers from factory, spare parts from Autobarn, lazy torque for the city and good highway economy. Excellent aircon and moderate glass areas so you're not cooking while you drive. The worn out stub axle/front end days have gone so they sit reasonably well on the road at highway speeds. Brakes are fine for normal driving conditions, most are autos and perfect for city traffic. Towing will rip their arse out but who cares, they leak like seives from factory. You can drive passed the revenue collectors in a dunnydoor and not get a 2nd glance, same can't be said for an import. Expect to get a thorough going-over and if he doesn't like you, off to the pits for some added inconvenience. Anyway that's why we've got an everyday dunnydoor. So stupid really, when it's pissing down and I'm shitting myself on slippery roads, I think of the GTR that's made for those conditions, sitting under tarps in the shed.

Nope, if a filter can't flow enough due to blockage from sludge or way too fine filtration, it simply by-passes the filter element and then you run on partially un-filtered oil. If you want mega fine filtration, run a by-pass system. Toilet roll filters will get down to 1 micron. Leave the full flow to do its job.

I find having multiple cars is simply getting way too expensive. Not the running costs as I only have 1-arse, so I can only drive 1-vehicle. It's the various charges, things we have no control over. Rego and insurance. I have to register my toy tractor just to slash the verge. That also means fitting lights, indicators etc. simply to maintain roo-visibility on our dirt track that the local council slashes once per year. Also require a current driver's licence to slash out there or I'll be contributing to the blue revenue fund, that means I can't let the Grandkids loose, might get sued. If I want to do contract road work with my excavator, it also has to be registered. Same with a dozer, bobcat........... There's no excemptions for multiple registrations even though most of us can only drive 1-vehicle at a time. So no, not happy at all giving this useless bankrupt Sate Govt. any more of my hard earned.

This one won't go away.

Exactly right. 99% of owners don't realise you must run your flanges parallel. That usually means packing the diff, stiffer engine mounts and some serious dimension checking. Comparing a 25 box with a sliding yoke to a GT4 box with an output flange is also useless, the shaft must have some in/out flexibility either from the CV or a spline. Running a sliding yoke style box with a worn out extension bearing is also asking for vibrations. A stock 2-piece will let you get away with a lot of these faults, they may not even be noticed by the average driver, but a 1-piece will show them up big time. Wonder how many 1-piece owners have fitted a shaft hoop where the centre bearing used to live?

Got any photos? Reason I ask, the shop I use does routine maintenance work for BMW and Merc. Both these cars have non-replaceable uni joints same as the Skylines. Whenever I get a shaft built it's done with new yokes that have conventional circlipped-in replaceable unis, there's very few Nissan components left when he's finished. BUT the guys from BM and Merc won't have non-original components on their cars, they have the peened-in design yokes machined for circlips, pass them over to him and he re-builds the shaft. There's practically no metal left in the yokes. I'd be interested to see if your re-built shaft was done that way.

Sounds like reverse lock out spring fail. You've probably noticed when shifting from 5 to 4, it's impossible to hit reverse on the way through. (unless you inadvertantly wobble about while in neutral) That's the reverse lock out spring. I've never had to do one so can't help re-the labour involved, but selector balls/springs/detents etc are accessable without removing the box. Perhaps find out if this guy got sorted. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/329424-trouble-selecting-reverse/page__p__5396690__hl__reverse__fromsearch__1#entry5396690

I pinned these out years back for an R32 GTSt. Might help.

JZ

You need to check fuel rail pressure with the air/boost signal hose disconnected and blocked Fuel rail pressure is around 2.5bar at zero manifold vacuum. That's about 37-40psi. If you haven't removed the air/boost signal to the fuel reg, at idle it may be pulling around 20" vacuum or the equivalent of around 10psi. So with the signal hose connected, you'd only see a fuel pressure of around 27-30 psi.

And don't forget the Rb30 in the VL has a different fan clutch AND fan to the Rb30 in the R31.

Willis Island automatic weather station has called it a day, they usually pack it in at around 90 knots. Used to have an underground concrete bunker but it was removed, think I'd prefer that over the new stuff built there. Be interested to see how much is still standing.