jiffo

So long as your 25 isn't a Neo, it's buried under the plenum, about half way along. You'll pick it by its alloy body on one end, black plastic material on the other. Will have approx 16mm air hose in and out and a 12V power plug. When faulty, your idle will be way too high, out of the range that the AAC can control.

Almost right, firing on No1 (TDC) look at No 6 changing over inlet/exhaust. As has already been posted, easiest way, without removing the rocker cover is to set her up at TDC on the balancer, aim the rotor at No1 and have a try. She'll either go or be 180 out and do a big boot back. If she boots back, set her at TDC again then pull the distributor and aim the rotor at No 6. Once she's away, timing light for final adjustment.

Could have been the standard suspension but just lost a spring. Commos, when lifted from the body, like to drop the rear springs. Whenever I get tyres changed, the VS loses at least 1-spring, the VP was even worse as it was a S pack and must have had the wrong shocks. Now that I'm aware, I've seen a few drive out from the tyre shop sitting all down on one side. Sure enough, spring has dropped off the seat. Reputable tyre shops check as they lower the car. Others just let her drop.

Commodores have a thing about blowing just the one stop light. Don't care which side but can't keep them all going for very long. But Gu Patrols leaping all over the road is what scares me. They'll drive perfectly until you drop a wheel into a pot hole and then it's wheel shimmy city. http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/nissan-patrol-gq-y60-ford-maverick-11/death-wobble-24578/

The OP's sig says it's a GT4, so it won't have a sliding yoke at the box. As a 2-piece, it would have had a conventional uni at the diff, a CV at the centre bearing and another CV at the box. As a 1-piece, who knows what they did? Either way, stuffed diff insulating rubbers won't help the prop shaft.

As suggested, magnet down valve guide plus go to Supercheap and buy one of their $129 borescopes which will fit down the spark plug hole. You'll need someone on the crank to slowly and accurately bring the piston up, remembering the valve will need to lean over a bit, not straight up and down. It's worth putting some time and effort into it as the head off will really add expense, you'll decide to get the head done up while its off................ Once you get back into it, don't just rely on the compressed air to hold the valves up, get the piston up and have someone with a socket on the balancer hold the crank for you. (as the air tries to push that piston back down)

This company has the style of extractor you need, but it's always best to buy a name brand not Chinese stuff. P&N, etc, names that have a reputation in the tool world. http://www.tetools.com/catalogue.html

Plenty more hoses to check. Just about impossible to see clearly without removing lots of gear, especially on a 32.

GTR'S have dozens of coolant hoses. Across the front of the cambelt cover you have the turbos water return, pretty easy to check that one.

Found this out the hard way at least 15 years back, the ecu needs speed input. The car would go fine one day, sluggish the next with no obvious reasons. Connect the speed signal, reset ecu and all fixed. Martin Donnon who is pretty switched onto ecu's also found out the hard way, An old Zoom write up>>

As mentioned above, alternator is stuffed. Anyone having continual battery trouble should do a simple multi meter voltage check by gradually applying loads (headlights, wipers etc) to ensure the alternator is capable of keeping up. If at around 2500rpm it drops below 13.8-14V with full electrical load, either the drive belt is slipping or the alternator is sad. Useless replacing batteries if they're not getting full re-charge while driving.

You say that you need to select neutral for the car to freewheel as it used to do. If neutral fixes the problem, it's hardly going to be a brake issue is it. Take the thing to an auto specialist. One quick test drive and they'll diagnose any transmission issues.

That's what I thought. 62892-62C00 Bonnet badge -"Nissan" Re-spray/finances seems to be the reason.

Well they're $120 from Nissan, and none in Aus. so I'm sticking with the re-spray theory.

Any suggestions as to why so many GTR's don't have this badge? Surely it wasn't optional. Re-spray and then perhaps too expensive to replace?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ng-t168895.html

That's your hot pipe, would be a better indicator to go to the cold pipe. And mentioned, if your plumbing is going straight to the actuator as it appears to be doing, you'll only see 5psi boost.

Yes Marc they're so far wrong I wondered if perhaps they were operated by some kiddie back at HQ. Ridiculously expensive joke really when the whole lot will soon be bypassed. As for the right lane snails, that's just driver education, or the lack of. Not checking mirrors, all the usual suspects. Followed the Army down to Matilda yesterday. They were flat out at around 80 and yet sticking to the right hand overtaking lanes. Checked their vehicles were LHD so there's a legitimate reason and you make allowances.

Lighten up a little. Nissan like any other car manufacturer has variations throughout their models, brain snaps if you will. Ca18det, no BOV yet SR20det has BOV Never seen a BOV on an auto Rb20 or 25 yet the manuals come factory fitted. Big company, lots of different ideas. Some good, many ratshit.

Did it ever!!! But you've learned a lot. Your turbo car may blow intercooler pipes or clamps again, and of course the ecu is AFM based so it thinks all that leaking air is actually being consumed by the engine, so it adds fuel. Result> low boost, engine runs super rich, black smoke......... Now you're aware and can pass the info on to others. Look for the simple stuff first.

Had a close up look at some Wright Cyclone R3350 aero engines yesterday. Those guys had some ideas. 3-turbines but not coupled to compressors as in our conventional turbos. They're geared back to the crank, so they use the exhaust gas to directly develop crankshaft power. The story mentioned they add around another 500hp in the big power configuration.(around 3500hp)

You've got to be joking? We already have this technology on our 90 stretch to Helltown and yesterday I was in the queue with a front row seat. We're all crawling along at 70 to 90 so obviously the vehicles start to bunch up. (the Bruce Highway goes from 110 down to 80/90 until 20k's North of Helltown) Take into account that there are all sorts of cars mixed in with semis of all descriptions, hills, grey nomads so the acceleration/deceleration rates are varied. Next thing one of these electronic marvels lights up and you guessed it, someone up front panics and touches his brakes. Nose to tail accidents were narrowly averted but it was a fine dry day so we continued on. 2K's down the road the next electronic marvel lights up warning that we're all speeding and fines/demerit points will be ours. No-one is doing anything near 90 yet again on come the stop lights. Not only is this technology hopelessly inaccurate, it's road user's money spent in the most appalling fashion and all under the guise of road safety. I say, spend the money on driver education and not this whiz bang electronic crap which BTW incorporates point to point radar just waiting to be phased in.

Tony, Apparently it's a GT4, Rb25de. But forgetting about the ATTESA, I've explained you can't legally drive with 16's on the front and 18's on the rear. Go the stock 16's all round.

R33 instrument cluster (65,000k's) $100. R32 GTSt stock diff and half shafts (4.3:1) $100. R32 fan cowl $20. R32 windage tray $25. All items clean and in good condition. Left overs from various projects.

You've got a hand commander, pull a few degrees timing out of it. Go Settings, IGN/INJ, reduce the timing by say 5 degrees. Next time you turn off and re-start it's back to where it was as these are only test settings.