jiffo

Nismo 555 part number 16600 – RR543

And after you're done a few k's, check them again.

Injector stuck open? Fuel into the inlet manifold is the usual way. Hydro lock can bend conrods and damage pistons. Remove the spark plugs and hand crank over to remove the fuel, then remove the injectors and have them serviced.

PM me an address, you can have this one. I'm well over Rb30's.

In the olden days it was 15 degree segments. (so there's your 7.5 degree cuts) Do the end in a half segment though, so you get more bolt room if you're squaring up to a bolted flange.

Got to love those oil drains too, 12 at around 14mmdia.

Here's one. Think they're 3/4" SAE not metric.

Phantom bidders. Always had my doubts about Pickles.

170psi max. 130psi min for re-build. 14psi max variance. The results are only a guide. Depends on so many factors. Warm engine, good battery cranking at 600rpm, WOT. Most Rb20det's these days will be 150-160, and still performing well for 20 year old engines.

Some units can be overhauled. http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55192

Yes ATTESA pump cuting in/out due to a low nitrogen charge in the accumulator. This topic has been done to death, even got the UK guys sorted now. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/132425-r34-gtr-...ming-relay.html

It's pretty obvious the GTSt guys need some hot oil change experience with a GTR. I've had GTSt's previously, piece of piss.

Fitted a J/J relocation/cooler kit to a 33 GTSt. No noticeable change to oil pressure. Not the best product, but it's cheap. There's better, more expensive gear available and that's what I'll be fitting. So much has to be removed to fit the adaptor, you want it perfect first time.

Insanely hard to get at. R32 even more so than an R33 due to the HICAS valve unit. Only car that I've needed a special filter tool to do it up, not just to remove it.

No, Neo, like the Rb26 has solid lifters.

I wonder what the battery life is for the siren's power supply? Maybe it's just sucking the juice little by little? Won't show up in the previous poster's test, as he mentioned, you have to isolate the bloody thing.

What boost control?

I bought it at the local performance shop. I'm guessing it's semi synthetic but still it's performing fine. No difference in hot/cold oil pressure to the Elf previously used. Price is good. http://www.fuchs.com.au/home.asp

Giving Fuchs a try this oil change. $38 for 5L, Super GTO 10W40.

I found it would eventually start with a lot of accelerator but wouldn't idle or run properly at all. Never had this problem with an Rb25, it just illuminated the check engine light. GTR was very different.

You'd have to take the opportunity to replace all the various heater and air hoses as you'd be unhappy if one let go the following week.

Photos are handy. There's also another thread on the same forum but the image links don't work. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/141689-plenum-i...ket-change.html

You're asking the wrong person. I think if they're left stock, you'll have a cheap, powerful luxury cruiser. From my experience, the suspension would need a lot spent on it to make the car perform. It's not a stiff chassis as a base and it doesn't have tough suspension arms etc. They're designed for a smooth comfortable ride not fantastic handling. Luckily all balljoints, arms etc can be bought aftermarket for a fraction of Toyota's cost. There is enormous inter-changeability of parts between models with Toyotas, far more than I've come across with Skylines. As standard, they have an open diff and composite universal/tailshaft joints. Manual box, LSD and driveline parts could be sourced from a Supra, and I've seen these cars converted to 6-speeds on Jap. auctions. Foot operated handbrake conversion would be difficult. The under-bonnet temps are very high yet the massive radiator will not allow the engine to overheat even in the worst heatwave. The aircon is outstanding. The stock heat shielding on manifold/turbos is excellent and to bin all that would need a LOT of thought. As they're a RHS exhaust manifold, there's steering and brake equipment very close to the hot bits. Obviously this is why they came standard with the electro-hydraulic brake system which is extremely compact considering it also has the ABS incorporated. Anyone who's fitted a 2JZ into an S13 knows how difficult it is to reliably keep the heat away from clutch/brake master cylinders.

No can't agree. Typical automotive discussion, way too much generalisation. Modern large truck diesels have a beautiful flat torque curve from around 900 to 2200rpm, all due to big turbocharging boost. OLD fashioned diesels didn't rev too well, but even an Rd28 will still be pulling strong at 5000rpm, not too shabby for a diesel. As for this one.............

Excellent luxury cruiser and they're cheap as. Parts are very reasonable via NZ Toyota dealers. If it's modified I'd walk away as they have 23 computers (from memory) and if some cowboy has started chopping hoses and wires, you'll never get it running properly. When buying 2nd hand there's a few things the car must have either had done or just be prepared to do them. Electro-hydraulic brake accumulator nitrogen re-charge. Radiator or top tank, heater hoses generally. Valve stem seals. Cambelt etc. Waterpump/hydraulic fan pump. They have ceramic turbos (which are fine until someone decides to play with the boost) Stripped gears in the electric adjustable seats. Check all suspension balljoints. Mod the cruise control's computer so it will go better than 100kph. Auto trans is excellent.