jiffo

Not sure what you were trying to achieve there. To flush the radiator, remove it and take it to a radiator works. They'll give you an indication of its condition and cooling capacity. After you did this flush, did you re-fill and bleed all the air from your cooling system?

4.1 V's 4.3 makes very little difference, about 2950 at 100 for the 4.1 and an Rb20 certainly feels more lively with the 4.3 ratio. But the O.P.'s numbers don't add up. Your first post said 4000 = 123kph, via GPS. Something is wrong, it's just maths. 3000 at 100kph equates to 4000 at 133kph.

FS5W71C gearbox 5th gear is 0.83:1 overdriven. Diff ratio is 4.3:1 205/55 R16's are 505 revs per K. Do the maths and at 3000rpm you're doing 100kph, or near as. Are you sure your tacho is correct?

This chap has the pictures you're after, as well as a lot of other very useful info. http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/Gearboxes.htm

Flow through ventilation valve. Air comes into your car via the front vents and leaves via that valve.

Yes the stock inlet cam wheel is adjustable, but from the back so it's a bit of a mission. Sounds like someone was attempting to adjust the inlet wheel and then didn't re-assemble it all correctly. Then the normal timing marks would all look to be OK, but the wheel would be referenced wrongly to the cam. Good way to do some damage.

Pretty sure the Rd28 was fitted to taxi versions of the R33. That's why I thought he may have looked up the wrong codes.

Probably does say TDC. It's a dreadful manual and shows no understanding of what MIGHT happen. Compression TDC on No1 means No6 inlet and exhaust valves are in the process of changing over, opening/closing. Only takes a slight cam rotation and the valves will hit the piston. Anyone who has installed cams knows they like to rotate slightly as the caps are wound down, so it's simply good practice to rotate the crank slightly off TDC so there is no possibility of any valves interfering. It also gives you the chance to test rotate your cams (without hitting pistons) to ensure everything is happy. Oddly enough, Nissan chose No1 BDC for its RD28 camshaft install, cambelt timing the works. A much better option as at No1 BDC, the only protruding valves are poking into cylinders with the pistons way down.

Have you got the correct codes? Needle lift sensor is in No1 injector of an RD28. (that's the Patrol's baby diesel)

Here's an R32 GTSt dash. All the globes can be traced from the writing on the plastic circuit strip. There may be some empty sockets for stuff like cruise control and seat belts, but they're easy to see.

The most difficult part is to keep one in good condition. We're not all as well off as Jay Leno. 32's have many terrific rust spots and items like door rubbers, the horrid dash bubble etc make it a full time job to keep looking good.

Yes, they have a neutral switch. The engine's ecu needs to know if the car is in gear or neutral. Won't get the full IGN advance in neutral, but as the switch is N.O. when in gear, you can forget about it in most situations.

You're also missing that last exhaust manifold stud.

Under the plenum. Good luck with a mirror.

So long as your car battery is in good order you won't damage anything. It's DC, not AC. But if your car battery dies, there's no resistrance for the panel and they'll go to nearly 20V on open circuit. I drove for years with a 40W panel bolted to the roof racks of my mini back in the day. Generator had died and the panel kept everything going great, until it rained.

I can't wait until the revenue collectors start handing out defect notices for these things. Absolutely sick of inconsiderate bastards backyard fitting HID kits so they can see better and yet bugger everyone else. It doesn't matter if you adjust your standard assemblies down and left, they will still blind oncoming traffic. If it's good enough to hand out fines for driving with fog lights on in clear weather, this defect should be an immediate "no drive" tilt-tray situation, not an infringement notice to be checked in the future. Here's an interesting read. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bu...onversions.html

R32 GTR = 650gms. Then check sight glass.

Power steer rack is twin orifice model. Have a read of the workshop manual starting at section CH-311.

When you see a CAS like that, first thing that comes to mind is cambelt out a tooth. Even with an aftermarket ecu's IGN map altered to suit, it's still going to be way too advanced on initial start, with boot back etc. Needs the timing checked to remove the guesswork.

R31 aircon fan $10 R32 GTSt standard diff & half shafts (4.3:1) $100 R32 fan cowl $20 R32 stock intercooler $25 R32 turbo inlet pipe $25 R32 GTSt windage tray $25 R33 instrument cluster (65,000K's) $100 R33 stock intercooler $30 All items clean and in good condition. Left over from various projects.

Ca18de engine and auto box from my Rb20 transplant. Auto good, Ca needs a coilpack, but handy for spares, CAS, TPS, starter, ecu, etc. 160,000K's $200 Gympie, will deliver locally. 0458222470

Both those fans are clockwise (right hand) fans. Flipping over a fan (or prop) does not alter its rotation, that's built into the shape. What it does though is alter the leading/trailing edge of the foil on each blade. I don't have an R33 here to check, but that's your easiest way to be sure the fan you just bought wasn't bolted onto the clutch back to front.

Accumulator price to me was about $330 from Nissan. Will need to come from Japan.

Pretty sure 9-blade fan is R33. Quieter than the 8-blade earlier version.

I guess he's talking of the small key to turn off the siren. Without that key, you can't easily remove your car's battery. The siren has its own on board power and it will go right off as soon as you remove a battery terminal.