jiffo

Thought so. The long tube on that bike chain lube is good for in-situ lubing.

Don't put anything on the input shaft clutch splines, wire brush clean and then dry. A light wipe of a heavy molybdenum grease for the throw out carrier. What's the condition of the spigot bearing. Lot of work just to do that one again. A small dob of high MP grease for him. How's the actual throw out lever. Check that it's not bent or has any signs of imminent failure. I'd be looking real hard at it, something has been exerting large sideways loading on the pivot ball and that could mean a bent throw out lever or perhaps a really poor clutch setup. i.e. Did the slave push rod need modification to get the twin plate to operate properly etc?

When you get it going again, take note of the odometer as it changes the numbers. I found my speedo needle dips when the odometer cranks over a big change. Looks like the 25 year old unit needs some maintenance/lubrication.

Easy job if you have a ramp/hoist etc. Attach a pull through rope before you start removing the old cable, then use it to pull the new cable back down. That way it will lie correctly ready for the various clamps.

Good news that Ford has finally acknowledged there was a problem, took long enough. Many dissatisfied owners will never trust that company again, but then it's pretty much the same story from the rest too. What amazes me is these car companies jumping onto the twin clutch band wagon when some can't even get a single working properly. You'd think after 100 years that the old dry plate clutch would be trouble free.

But do these things have Ford's dual clutch transmission? So many complaints from everyday drivers. Not such a problem if the car is pushed hard where the transmission can correctly predict the next gear.

My money is on an exited turbine wheel too. They'll run without boost pipework but the mixtures are way wrong, will be very rich. AFM is sending flow info to the ecu which is way out of whack with what the engine's actually eating. The more boot you give it the worse it becomes. Time for a call to Stao.

Why do guesswork? Remove the turbo timer first and then see how she goes. If it's any decent brand it will have a patch harness that simply plugs/unplugs into the stock harness, 5 seconds work. After that I'd check the ECCS and IGN relays. (both beside the ECU) But get rid of the timer before you start worrying about a fried ECU.

From front hub of a 1990 R32 GTSt. Knurl section measured across the "flats".

As Ben said, all you need is some means of stopping the piston from reaching TDC, an old spark plug with an extension welded on the end or similar. (Just ensure it's not some rubbish that will drop into the cylinder) Blow any dirt/dust from the area and remove No1 spark plug, then screw the device into No1 plug hole. Hand rotate the crank clockwise until the piston touches the stopper, thus stopping the crank from turning. Mark the balancer across from the fixed timing pointer. Rotate the crank anticlockwise until the piston stopper again stops the crank from turning. Mark the balancer as previously. TDC will be half way between those marks. Remove the device, install spark plug etc.

However you did the install it's vital to stop the hoses from rubbing. Those braided hoses will chafe through anything.

Mine came from Nissan Australia, cost $499 from memory about 5 years back. Nissan Australia sold the 32 GTR for a time so it should be available as a spare part. Woeful manual though. Would not recommend buying one, just go for the PDF and print your own if you prefer paper pages.

Some more filter info> My USA trucking friend suggested I look into Gulf Coast filters, the system he uses on his trucks. Hello, 1-micron by-pass filtration. Now this has been around forever, in fact I used Franz by-pass filters back in the day until Castrol mounted such a frightening advertising campaign we went back to our previous fortnightly oil changes. (Castrol suggested Franz filtration was removing their special additives) Some reading from Gulf Coast Filters, Oil Filtration Systems and others shows the additives are in fact not removed at 1-micron filter levels, and there's testimony from customers with1,000,000 mile oil changes !!!! Looks like my old Franz and Jackmaster by-pass filters will be coming out of the shed. Now where can I fit a dunny roll filter under the bonnet of the 32……..

Never had any success using diesel oil in an older petrol engine, stripped off the carbon seal and she was a smoker/oil burner from then on. Should be fine for a new build however. But has anyone else wondered about our oil change intervals? 5000k for the Rb's whereas most modern cars are somewhere from 10,000 to 20,000k. Admittedly the turbo variants often have reduced oil change intervals but still we must be chucking good expensive oil out at such short mileage. Did you know today's USA trucks (those without EGR) do engine oil changes at 300,000 MILES. Amazing stuff with regular oil analysis, good filtration, no EGR and owners tell me the oil is still going fine, they simply do the change "just in case".

For that engine Missleman I'd suggest valve stem seals are in need of replacement. They get hard as wood and eventually disintegrate. Having said that, I'm a firm believer that unless you're totally in love with your 20, any engine overhaul is money wasted. Better to drop in something newer. Do the sums just for a full gasket set and you're halfway towards a newer/bigger capacity donk.

Yes John you can still make reasonable power by adding boost, even from those numbers. But it's off boost where power and economy suffers, and a 20 needs everything going for it. Remember also, a stock 20 is rebuild time at around 130psi.

Bloody hell Ben, not for me. Those 140,000k's, must have been hard yakka. My old 20 had well over 250,000k's and she still blew 150 to 155. Any less and they're rubbish off boost.

If I was 20 years younger I'd go for one of these. Only 4-speed but cruisy N/A V8 power.

Without getting too personal, how much left leg capacity do you have? This setup is pretty trick once moving.

This is a pretty old thread. At the time I mentioned to the OP the car comes with the facility to reduce pedal movement. The "UP" stop on these cars is the switch. Adjust the switch so the pedal sits closer to the floor and at the same time shorten the adjustable push rod to the master cylinder. If the switch runs out of thread due to the lock nut, move the locknut to the other side of the bracket. The pedal return spring is designed to go over centre so don't go too crazy with a super low pedal. Remember to set some free travel.

GTSboy has covered the salient points well. Yes they've been in diesels for many years and almost broke Cummins. Owners ditched the VGT in favour of old fashioned waste gate style and real engine life returned. Precise control of the thing, even within the tight confines of a truck's usable rpm is extremely difficult and of course carbon build up etc does not make for long service intervals. Still OEM on small capacity diesel cars where an owner who gets over 200,000k's thinks it's amazing. Us old time diesel owners aren't interested in anything until it's done 1,000,000 trouble free. The complicated sequential turbo setup on the 2JZ supplies seamless power all the way to the top, but it must weigh 100kg !!!

Here's an old thread but most is still useful although my Photobucket images have long gone……. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/118850-what-bulb-type-guide-r32-gtr-start-2.html

Simultaneous typing Duncan. Forgot to mention, you have to check polarity when fitting LED's.

They're called a T3. I went to LED's, colour choices and brighter illumination, easily sourced on the net. Cheap, usually come in a set of 6 so you'll have a few left over. I went for blue colour thinking it would match the original but no they're too dull. In Aus we have a forum member who sells all sizes of LEDs but I guess you'd find a source closer to home.

That must be an engine out photo John. I do my filter changes by feel and make a hell of a mess with oil spilled over the diff etc. It's way crowded down there especially if the car still has that hydraulic valve bank for the HICAS.