jiffo

I found two, but neither mentions GTR.??? http://nationwideautoparts.com.au/front_end/index.php?view=PartDetail&partno_id=4733&partid=1&makeid=24&modelid=271&detid=6811&rec=9 http://nationwideautoparts.com.au/front_end/index.php?view=PartDetail&partno_id=1086&partid=1&makeid=24&modelid=271&detid=1086&rec=9

Comprehension problems ?? Hadouken was suggesting the use of cotton buds+ electronic contact cleaner to clean coil packs, not the AFM. He offered don't spend $$ on branded AFM cleaner for cleaning items such as coil packs, too expensive. That's my take on it anyway.

Yes, another brain fart from none other than the insurance industry ??? WTF. We have APIA chasing our business on one hand and then some other branch looking for a soft target. Elderly drivers (and soon to be not so elderly) require an annual GP report before licence testing. This is a better system than the previous wall chart eye test and you're good to go. My 90 year old grandad always passed the eye test using only his 'good' eye. What if you're diabetic, might have a hypo so perhaps we need "D" plates as well. Medication, sleep apnea, the list goes on. You won't see the number plate on my car, there'd be to many extra plates added. I'd rather see real driver instruction instead of what's presently happening, ridiculous log books etc. No actual highway speed testing or bad weather. Drivers speeding up on passing lanes as these nice wide spaces are the only conditions they feel competent enough. And the blind spots of today's cars…. Stiff necks forget about it, may as well park by braille.

Doh!….not including the oil pump gear…my bad.

The air con belt tensioner runs all the time so a shot tensioner bearing will be a constant noise. I'd give that one a check with the screw driver before going further. If all else fails, drop one belt off at a time to find the culprit.

The slot in the rear belt guide plate is there so you can easily fit the plate without having to remove the woodruff keys. Once in position it's way behind any key. But it's not going to slip/rotate or whatever on the crank. The balancer bolt pulls up the whole show against a shoulder on the crank. That's balancer, front belt guide, crank gear, rear belt guide, oil pump gear……..all hard up against the crank shoulder.

With a GTR, you need access from below for most tasks. As for identifying belt noise, it's not that hard. You can cycle the aircon on/off to test if that belt is loose. Also use a long handled screw driver to your ear and against the tensioner pulley to check its bearing as they give trouble, although it will be a constant noise. Power steer has no load until you work the steering wheel, so again it's a simple check. Turn the wheel and listen for belt squeal as well as feel the steering wheel jump in your hands when the pump stops/starts due to belt slip. That only leaves the alternator which is 99% the one making initial start up noise while the battery is getting max charge.

Remove the plastic windage tray, things are more accessible from below. Aircon is the easiest of them all. Tensioner is looking at you, lock nut and adjuster. For power steer and alternator, I find 12mm ratchet spanner works the best.

Even or not those numbers don't do much for me BUT…. We don't know anything about the build. Did it score cams or has it got adjustable wheels? I'd forget the compression test and do a leak down if you're concerned, or just drive it.

Yellow Stag has been getting cheaper. Down to $6.5k now without reg. Aaron you'd know the one, Polleys bus company, Gympie.

I just use rotate a couple of times.

It's usually around this time that you find the special key/tool for the nuts in the ash tray. At least that's been my experience.

Going to be difficult to do a decent job in-situ. When we pulled head studs in my trucks, I'd machine up stepped studs with larger diameter + thread length and coarse Whitworth thread into the cast iron block, then stepped back to correct size/thread above the block line so the head stud nuts still fitted due to the tight clearances to rockers etc. Drilling and tapping into the block, keeping things nice and plumb was not easy.

Bit crook when we have to link to another forum to get info. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/379202-r33-34-cooling-fan-fitment-r32.html So the actual fans are interchangeable and we know the 4-studs/spigot to the water pump are same same. Only thing left to check is the length of the viscous coupling which may move the fan closer/away from the radiator or worse, have the fan blades hitting the drive belts.

Those holes look the go John. But us old codgers remember a bloke called Peter Manton who drilled down the centre of his head studs, anything to save weight in his Mini.

Typo??? Crankshaft. Has been some discussion on the UK forum regarding Exedy heavy duty clutches. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/381993-exeddy-stage-2-clutch-wore-crank-thrust-bearing-after-20-miles.html Wonder how many cars are driving around with no clue as to their crank end float. Hyundai's get so bad the pick up for the crank sensor can't get a signal and she stops.

The spot where you mounted the idler, was that on a factory machined area?

There's also mobile RWC in Gladstone. No suggesting they're shonky but at least you can talk with them whereas a workshop won't allow you inside. You just get the RWC paperwork with the defects listed.

I thought this version couldn't be complied in Aus, something about power to weight ratio way too small??

I washed the cowshit off one just for you. Your centre cap seems larger than mine? Written between each spoke: NISSAN 05U20 SK24 FORGED 16X8JJ30 JIL (don't have suitable keyboard for these symbols) Then in Japlish on the centre cap: "We Produced with Spartan Air"

Try the Just Commodores Forum, search for Rb25 conversion. Has been done many times.

Was the GTRS on E85 or petrol?

This may help.

I know what the last one (placed on the underside of the bonnet) says. It tells how the car has beautiful lacquer paint and to be extra careful when using anything that may damage said finish. In other words, no harsh chemicals when washing the car.

These things will blow the gate open (big flap offers large surface area) They need a lot of preload on the actuator although your problem does seem a bit extreme. Have no experience on E85 so can only suggest you continue with actuator adjustment.