jiffo

Flogged keyway can be repaired, common fix on Rd's is to cut a new keyway 180 out. You won't know the extent of damage until the balancer's off, might be perfect…..fingers crossed for you.

If the balancer bolt was loose often the balancer will flog out the key way as well as the key. Then the balancer can rotate slightly and jamb on the remains of the key. I'd persevere with decent puller bolts. Easier to do this work in-situ than chasing an engine around the shop on a stand.

You should ask on GTROC, closer to home base. Read somewhere that they also offer exchange gear ratio swaps.

Mate I think you need to apply your own thoughts instead of taking what your mechanic says as gospel. At any oil change, do you really think every last cc of oil comes out that sump plug? Of course not, there's always going to be dilution of your new oil with old oil remaining in galleries and various pockets. Now if you noticed some dramatic change in your car's road performance after you topped up with 800cc of different viscosity oil, I'd be more concerned how come it needed topping up at all.

How easy is this ??? Like Ben said, drop the vacuum by depressing the clutch a few times and then see how you like the un-assisted pedal. Certainly not for me, I want all the assist available. Takes some load off the well known-weak-as-piss pedal, why would you go to the trouble of deleting it. Pay the bucks. A bit under $300 from Kudos gets you a new unit or around $100 will get the old one reconditioned.

As has been posted, there was no LHD R32 so everything will have to be sourced or invented. A massive undertaking which could look great or not……... To give you some idea, here's a 32. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/317537-r32-gtr-lhd.html And a 33. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/314441-street-r33-gtr-lhd.html There's also a UK company specialising in 33 conversions, end product is excellent.

Had this exact same problem with Nengun many moons ago. They sent me someone's Fc (Rb26) and mine (Rb25) to who ever. Both packages had been signed for so Nengun could care less, it was left for us to sort it out. A little hard to tell what Fc you've signed for when it's all wrapped up !!! But that was long ago and now there are plenty of other options.

OP asked for info on prop. shaft CV boots, not half shaft CV's.

OK so I'm from the older generation. Used to swim in everything when cleaning parts. Dieso, petrol, kero, xylene, acetone, you name it, I've bathed in it. Paying the price now of course, Dieldrin, 2,4-D just some of the better stuff from the faming days. For you youngsters, here's a warning I scored from another forum. http://www.brewracingframes.com/safety-alert-brake-cleaner--phosgene-gas.html

Why on earth would you use 3rd gear, may as well try 1st and wind the thing down the street. Use direct !!!!!! Rd28 has similar balancer torque to the 20/25/30, only 105 to 110 ft lbs. Baby stuff when compared to the 26.

Not with a 26 and you'll damage any box using overdrive, direct is your strongest gear. I can only presume it wasn't done up to correct torque previously or perhaps you used a impact gun?

It's a lot bigger bolt than a 2JZ and clever Toyota has means to hold the balancer while tensioning the centre bolt. If you use an ARP replacement for the RB26, the torque is lower?? I use a ring gear stopper to hold the crank. More fun removing the starter although I can be pushed up and clear, doesn't have to come right off. I use a 14mm universal socket on long extensions all the way from the alternator to reach the top bolt.

Unpluging the CAS is pretty easy. Don't forget to bleed the coolant once she's running.

You don't want your cams on their timing marks/engine at TDC when removing or installing cams. You should deliberately take the crank slightly passed TDC so all pistons are down the bores, check with a screw driver down the plug holes. Then there's no chance of interference as cams do like to find their happy spot, and it's not exactly where their timing marks are. (No 1 firing at TDC has No 6 changing over inlet/exhaust. If you're winding down cam caps and things move a touch, you can push those valves into the piston) As Duncan posted, it's just a matter of turn and check to get things aligned again when fitting the belt.

No need to cut things. It unplugs where the wiring changes from braided stainless to conventional plastic at a connection under the passenger's seat. (seat has to be removed for this) Fit a bung in the floor pan and job done.

I suggest such a precise figure would indicate that was when the last service was done, simply read from the odometer. The future service would usually be rounded to the nearest hundred k's.

Bit of a mission on a GTR.

Evolution?? Look at the Americas Cup boats, all the same "J" boat formula for years until some bright spark noted the formula could still apply with a Cat or Tri, so long as the maths worked. Now we have exciting big Cats and the races are tight and fast. Rules are still the same, just interpretation.

What sensor are you testing? The item on the column behind the steering wheel is the steering angle sensor and since you've deleted HICAS I can's see it having any input. You swapped the dash and then your troubles began so to me it's a speed sensor problem. The actual speed sensor is just a reed switch built into the speedo right where the cable enters. There's differences between early/late models, so could be a wiring issue.

As has been posted, that "ring" goes under the heads of the bolts in an auto application. The flex plate is nowhere near as thick as a flywheel so perhaps Mr Nissan was trying to spread the load a bit? Auto flex plate bolts are different to manual flywheel bolts too.

Surely you can tell the difference between engine oil and gearbox oil.

My experience with re-wiring has been with re-powers where there's no problem cutting into a harness, and I haven't touched my GTR so if my info isn't right feel free to correct. To me Mr Nissan has already done the job for you. For the positive feed, you just have to install larger cable to the fuel pump relay and of course larger cable from relay to the pump. On the negative side of the circuit, the FPCM etc can all stay where it is, simply supply the pump with a larger cable chassis ground. I believe the fuel pump relay for a 32 GTR is behind the centre boot trim. You should find 2-relays, one is fuel pump the other is ATTESSA.

I don't like having a relay operating the FPCM operating another relay, simple is best. So I'd use the ecu Pin 18 as my trigger. (Pin 18 goes to ground to activate the pump) My relay would have: Relay 85 to Pin 18 of the ecu. Relay 87 to positive feed for the fuel pump. 12V+ in to Relay 30 and looped to Relay 86.

Are you sure you have the correct voltage on the wire going to 86 of the relay? I wonder if you have the reduced voltage signal (the output of the FPCM) which would have difficulty holding in the relay when the engine is cranking.

I think that timing belt sticker is the one that's on the car from factory. The replacement one has another line of writing below with a spot to note the odometer reading.