jiffo

No idea why Nissan fitted that valve as the oil filter has its own by-pass valve to allow for a blocked filter. It's not on all Rb30's either. From my 3-blocks only 1-had the blocked filter valve, the others had a tapered plug hammered in. It should have been removed when your block was originally tanked and cleaned. Would be worth removing the filter and having a close look at whatever's in there.

Here's the valve Brett asked as to what treatment you gave. However you mentioned the filter retains oil so that tends to rule out the filter's drain back valve as well as this blocked filter by-pass valve. Your problem seems more that the pump has to re-prime after a certain time has elapsed. Can you go into more detail about the N1 oil pump build. You'd be aware they have no non-return valve as such, simply relying on the porting and it is possible to install the gears facing the wrong way, which may upset the port clearances??? Now having said all that, 2-seconds isn't very long for the oil to pump up, but it certainly is annoying.

So it was just the same with the Ryco?

What brand of oil filter?

There's a win. It would have been worth dropping each belt off and testing for noises before pulling the balancer either way. Good result and cheap.

No, the hole doesn't look big enough to reach the Allen adjuster. But who cares, the spring gives the belt's tension when setting up. Most noisy idler problems are solved by backing off belt tension, not adding it. Have to admit there's been a few times I've wished for a hole like that. With my luck the socket would fall off then drop down in the bottom cover……….

Balancer was off in the photo as the car was having the belt etc replaced. The owner noticed the bung and the hole, so he asked the question, "Is this factory?"

Pulled this photo from GTROC, fit a nice rubber bung and why not.

From memory the girdle has machined edges mating to the similarly machined block at each main. Would think this location is pretty good in sideways load. Are you concerned about fore/aft movement of the girdle?

Clearly I'm showing my age and like I said, things have improved here as they surely will in the US. It's a niche market waiting to be exploited and with your massive population…….

Sorry mate didn't see your original post. This is a standard problem no matter what car you drive. The old Commos would also default the engine fan to max speed only, as the aircon operated the low speed fan. Bloke on the Hyundai forum just had this problem too, same, same. Bloody solder joints or cooked resistors.

I don't know about being lucky here in Aus. Things have certainly improved in the last 5 -10 years but prior to that…….. Go to a Nissan dealer for import parts and practically get spat on. Over time I found the dealers who showed an interest in imports and stayed there. How many times explaining that the 32 GTR was actually sold here. For the 20 I'd have to buy an Rb30 exhaust manifold gasket, cut into into bits and massage out the ports. Cambelts were a dark art with the idler costing mad money from Nissan. Once my local bearing shop did some investigation, cheap as chips. And as for water pumps, the mix ups are still happening. Now that most Skyline manuals are available on the net, things have certainly got easier. Hell I can't even buy a manual for Mr's i-30.

My info relates to GTR's. As has been posted, I believe some 4-doors had a different H4 version.

What's with the bonnet margins Bob, poor bodywork or did he forget to close it.

N1: H4 12v 60/55w H3C 12v 55w

Post 91: H1 12v 55w H3 12v 85w

Pre 91: H3C 12v 55w H3 12v 85w

That's my thinking. There's no indication that the block's been chopped, head massively shaved or some other drastic reason to shorten that side of the belt? It's just a "normal" engine?

Unless you're going to degree the cam wheel I wouldn't bother with an adjustable wheel. There's not much chance the marks on the adjustable wheel are going to be accurate enough to prove the point. Handy if you decide to play with exhaust valve timing but you've also got the inlet to think about….too much hassle for me.

One tooth on a cam wheel equates to 15 degrees on the crank. Usual IGN static timing is 15 degree BTDC and has the CAS sitting pretty central in the slots. Yours looks slightly retarded, perhaps compensating for the advance on the exhaust cam but one would need a timing light on it to be positive. If the cam wheel had been set up a tooth retarded, there may have been a plan to bring boost on earlier or such, but set up a tooth advanced looks like a mistake to me.

One tooth on a cam wheel won't damage the engine, even a tooth on the crank can be tolerated. A tooth each way on the cams, not sure... As your cam is advanced I suggest the previous belt installer made an error. Was the CAS central in the slots or rotated one way?

Mine's April 90, ends with MAA.

Nov 1989: BNR32002090 – BNR32003027

We've all been there. Belt's way too tight, time to get the tools out again.

That would be the problem.