jiffo

No need to replace them, swap them with another from the fuse box as a test. Very rare for either of them to fail so you need to test everything related to power into the ecu. Only one of those is your ecu power, the other is the coils. You're looking for ecu power.

Also check the two green coloured relays beside the ecu. One is the ecu relay, the other the IGN coils relay.

In a 32, the cat over temp warning light is the check engine light.

I think the R32's will just whet the USA appetite and the R33 will be much sought after. Slightly bigger car and there's no doubting the 33 GTR is a great vehicle.

I found those nylon hoses don't like engine bay heat. Worth the extra $$ to go braided stainless at initial purchase. It seems a common theme, tuners are reluctant to make full use of W/M, rather prefer to do their usual tune then let you add W/M to eliminate knock. I guess it's almost like starting again and would push the tuning price way up. From what I've seen it's mainly enthusiasts making the most use of water injection. Mr MJTru, I know zero about NOS but I'd be adding brew way, way earlier than 22psi. My thinking is to eliminate knock before it gets a hold. By the by, here's a great read about water injection in WW2 aero engines. Hats off to this guy, no electronic knock ears in those days. http://www.enginehistory.org/Frank%20WalkerWeb1.pdf

You're very naughty.

The high volts and amps of your IGN won't have much trouble with a wipe of never seize. It's when you're talking milliamps that this is a concern although I've seen anodes fizzing while the operator hit the press-to-transmit button on his HF. When I built my boat I bolted on the anodes. (usual practice is to weld them) Things went well for many years, zero electrolysis then during one slip I decided to give the bolts a wipe with an Epicraft product, can't remember its name, but it was like green toothpaste and was brilliant at eliminating corrosion between dissimilar metals. Well at next slip my anodes were still perfect, hadn't done a fart of good and the prop was yum, yum, yum. Lesson learnt.

If you were building an F1 engine or something tuned to the Nth degree, perhaps some of this argument would be valid, but certainly not here. Getting worked up over very little. For starters the quality control on sparklers is practically non existent. Had a Repco spark plug cleaner/testing machine, nobody bothers these days as plugs are so cheap. But your old plug would get a grit blast in one section of the machine, then you'd gap the plug, install it in the test section and start building air pressure all the while watching the spark through a window into the pressure chamber. Very rare for any plug, new or used, to keep consistently sparking over 120psi. Push the pressure to 150 and the spark became very sporadic. Obviously the spark generator wasn't up to that produced by today's electronic ignition systems but the exercise showed the poor quality control of brand new plugs. It always took a lot of plug testing to end up with a decent set. To me this also showed the benefit as much IGN advance as possible. The more IGN advance, the lower the cylinder pressure. Every bit helps and another reason I'm a big fan of W/M as you can add so much IGN timing. But I digress. The spark from your coil pack arrives at the electrode via a puny spring with a fraction of the cross sectional area compared to that of the plug's shoulder against the head. An interesting discussion all the same.

What about the shoulder of the plug? Threads could be fully insulated but the shoulder/seal washer are going to conduct power for the ground. But forums are great places for tossing around thoughts, so each to his own. I like my match stick dob of nickel never seize on plug threads. (certainly not excessive amounts)

Did you return it to the workshop? A bit of info to help diagnose. When you hit the start position, the first thing that happens is the solenoid pulls the Bendix into mesh with the flywheel. As the solenoid reaches the end of it's travel, it bridges the high amp switch contacts which supply power to the actual starter motor, and away she goes. So if it motors but doesn't engage, you could have a busted Bendix or the solenoid lever may have been assembled incorrectly, (easy mistake to do) and then the engagement to the flywheel is incorrect. This is why it's best for a competent shop to mount, test and measure the Bendix throw etc. As an aside, the high amp contacts down at the bottom of the solenoid are often a forgotten item when a starter is "overhauled". If the starter has been run with a dead/dying battery for a while, the contacts melt.

So it's breaking down under load? Why not take it back if it was fine previously. This could be as simple as excess coolant splashed over coil packs when bleeding out the air. Or it might be timed woefully, best to take it back.

Is it badly corroded? If so you'd need to think about the rest of the engine, welsh plugs etc.

Only have one carbon canister and it's not hidden under the inner guard. This is the normal position. (bottom right in picture) Note the hose clamps are not worm drive, usually a give away something's been added.

On the news a couple of nights back. http://jalopnik.com/russian-soccer-ace-obliterates-nissan-gt-r-in-105-mph-c-1700966331

30,000k per year is not excessive for country folk. We do that in the Mr's car then plus whatever I do in mine. Also sounds like the servicing is up to the mark. I'm wondering if you've just been unlucky, mechanic had sourced 2nd hand manifolds that may have already started to crack, they have a reputation for doing so. I think if all suggestions are taken on board at the "next" replacement you might have a better outcome. Check replacement for cracks, machine true to head and turbo, replace missing studs, ensure sufficient clearance around studs and thick washers, Nissan gaskets, dump supported by bracket (without inducing stress), flex joint from dump…….. If after all that it still fails, buy a Commo.

Definitely an obsession happening there, go for it. But you're correct, storage is the problem. As mentioned, body panels are hopeless to store and there's always the danger something will fall on them. Best place for body panel is on a car. In fact best place for everything is on a car. But door rubbers etc are already at insane prices and will become more so in future. Not an easy item to store properly in the hope it's not going to disintegrate once you open the packet. Imagine paying around $1000 for a 32 dash only find 10 years down the track it's developed bubbles in your storage, would not be happy. I'm concentrating on the expensive plastic interior bits as very few 2nd hand will still have all their tabs.

Reconditioned by a professional workshop??? Take it back.

Yes pull the plug off and check resistance when the engine is cold, then do it again when she's at operating temp. The numbers are approximate but if the sensor is stuffed you'll see no change when you take your readings.

Coolant temp sensor could be tested with multi meter measured between the terminals. Approx 20 deg C, approx 2.5k ohms. Approx 80 deg C, approx 0.3k ohms.

Any idea of injector condition? Useless theorising about A/F ratios as it mixes in the exhaust, so a crook injector or two will be masked by the others. 220rwkw is getting up there for a stock turbo so I guess it's not stock?

Do you know if the coolant temp sensor is OK?

Yes the 6-cylinder engines are fine. Little Ca's are a bugger, they turn their cams as soon as the belt comes off. Two man job for a baby engine.

So you'll be using the VL speedo and tacho, just with a different fascia? Speedo would be working at present? VL tacho will work from the Rb25/30 ecu with the 10c pull-up resistor circuit. One of my boys chopped up his dash to fit a boost gauge. Was a long time ago now. Car was actually a VB but with VL interior and Rb20.

Is this a single cam Rb30 setup or has it had an engine/box swap?

Certainly centre bearing and worn universals can give high speed vibrations, not usually harmonic though. I'd check tyre circumferences before anything else. Note them all for future reference. Big ones (equal left and right) on the rear, smallest on the front. If you get more than 10mm difference front to rears you'll hear it. We deaf old farts feel it.