jiffo

Check tyre circumferences. Some tread patterns are very noisy and with different tyre wear you'll experience "beats" as the harmonics come/go. Upset me in the GTR when on very smooth bitumen, and I'm deaf as a post. New tyres on rear at 1990 circum, good tyres on front at 1985 circum, within 5mm circumferences and noises gone.

Thin edge of the wedge, already here in Aus. trucking industry. Drivers aren't permitted to do brake adjustments. This is such a simple/basic job, tightening slack adjusters and while you were under there you had a bit of a look at springs, track rod bushes etc. It was as sensible as kicking tyres before climbing in the cab but the legal people have decided it must be done by an "expert". We now have steerers behind the wheel, not drivers.

I made a start some years ago. I don't have Fast and there's obviously a lot more than I found.

Hey Zoom, if you check that i-30 Moose test, it's not an understeer problem. The front wheels are still pointing straight ahead. The power steer has completely called it a day and he's nowhere near strong/fast enough to turn the steering wheel whilst fighting against the electronic power unit. You'd have to wonder how many accidents have been put down to driver error instead of this. With the Mrs car nothing shows up in diagnostics, steering unit has its own processor which can be reset by disconnecting battery for a while, as per normal. Too many gadgets.

What I find sad is this mega company toying with electronic steering-wheel gadgetry when their electric power steer is what they desperately need to fix. Failed the "Moose Test" some time ago, guess it would fail the Kangaroo test in Aus. Other manufacturers also failed but none locked the steering so spectacularly. Law suit in the US has prompted recall notice of the 2009-2011 model. http://money.cnn.com/2015/03/01/autos/hyundai-recall/ Meanwhile their latest version is unreliable, unpredictable and Hyundai is still ducking customer's complaints. $3500 cost for replacement steering assembly if you're under warranty and actually have your claim recognised. Plus the replacement might be just as bad……... http://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=34715.0 And don't get me started on their crap auto trany. http://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/index.php?topic=34738.msg358898#new 5-year warranty………not a problem, better check the exclusions though.

When installing those gaskets you make a concertina section between each cylinder. I prefer the Nissan gasket.

First check with a straight edge that's it's not warped. Then round file in the offending holes so there's sufficient expansion room. You'll note the centre cylinders have almost round holes and as you move to the end cylinders, the holes become more elongated. This is for expansion and if the manifold can't slip on the multi layer gasket, you'll be replacing those studs again. Check the spot facing areas for the thick washers too. If the washer hangs on the edge of the spot facing there's nowhere for the manifold to move with expansion. I always run a bottom tap down all the heat shield holes too, makes for easy re-assembly. Check the 4-turbo studs are tight into the manifold. They like to loosen up.

But Cal don't you have a 25, not a 26. Under the plenum on a 26 is horrendous and you don't want to have to go back to re-tighten anything. (not that you could anyway) Apart from the coolant hoses, there's the vacuum ones as well. Stole this pic of a silicone hose install and below that mess are the water/oil cooler hoses. I bought the Autobahn88 silicone hose set, fitted the easy one across the front of the cam belt and it pushed straight off, diameter just not right. So that set went in the shed until I can afford OEM. $350 sounds crazy cheap for OEM though???

From that info your Air Reg is working properly and the fact that the AAC (when plugged in) immediately revs up the engine shows it's also working, but just getting the wrong info. The idle is acceptable (700rpm hot) with the AAC unplugged so it doesn't look like vacuum leaks. From basics and presuming a stock engine, is the cam timing correct and the CAS looking fairly central in its adjusting slots? Have you checked the IGN timing with a timing light? Have you set the TPS correctly? That's about it for me.

Just so we're all on the same page, the 33 Rb25 has the brown plug (AAC), purple plug (aircon, etc idle bump) and the Air Regulator for fast idle during cold start. (buried under the plenum) Which item have you been working on.

Couple of the lads on the GTRUK forum have been toying with the stock sender and have proved it's not worth a pinch. This is NOT the way to go if you want to save an engine. These things will still indicate gauge pressure even when pumping air.

So do they want all calls to/from mobiles in the vehicle to go via the onboard blue tooth system? Sucks to be a passenger with a private call. Hyundai was supposed to be testing their hydrogen fuel cell vehicle here too, but the lack of refuelling facilities slowed things a tad.

Seems almost impossible to fix. Had a Patrol with a busted battery and nothing stopped that chassis region corrosion. The battery box in mini's used to rust right through, you'd see the battery hanging by the cables. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/112859-battery-leak-still-causing-damage-pics-added.html

These old jiggers have an ignition module on the front of the distributor and a CAS somewhere inside. Might be worth pulling it apart, giving it a good dry out plus WD40. Check the carbon brush down the centre electrode of the distributor cap too. When they wear the spark is erratic.

Sounds like loose fan belt. Might pay to check your fan clutch hasn't seized.

Yoshi you mentioned you've bought a 25 sump. Did you note the info posted regarding the different sump bolt layout for the various engines? (25 tin sump is not going to bolt straight up to a 26) Unfortunately you've picked a topic that to most of us here, belongs back in the early 90's. We've mostly all been down this path and have been through the pitfalls and drama involved with a fully legal engine swap, even an engine that by all account will drop straight in. My advice, if you really want a 26, buy a GTR. If you want a relatively modern, torquey good performer, buy a 34 with a 25det Neo.

That's interesting about the newer Nistune. Did not know that. I noted it ran OK with the stock ecu, just had poor idle. Sometimes the front facing plenum install may not be the cleverest, often a cause of poor idle etc if the AAC circuitry isn't properly thought through.

Wet or dry, those numbers are way low for stock engine/stock cams. Never going to be startling off boost.

Check knock sensor harness continuity. What's happening with the VVT and the 20 ecu?

Going to need bloody deep pockets and dedicated storage space if you're serious about it.

I've never seen an Rb jump a cam belt. Any odd cam timing I've come across can always be traced back to a poor/incorrect belt install. You've got a hand commander, pull a few degrees timing out of it and note the results. Go Setting, Ign/Inj and either add fuel or pull timing. (I'd pull timing) As soon as you turn the engine off those temporary changes are gone and she's back exactly where it was. A very conventient function for test/tune. A lot easier than farting about with octane booster, plus you can give some accurate feedback to your tuner. Paul's big PFc story is a mine of useful information, have a read of the hand commander section. How's the tuner going to do a tight tune with some unknown ratio of octane booster still in your tank.

Nope, Terry's got a few months on me. Lots of memories from this thread, not all good ones too. 161 heads onto 186/202?? blocks. Big cams/tough springs bending those pressed metal rockers, all pretty horrible stuff. Then I discovered my first Rb20 and that was the end of trying for hp with the old red motors. 20 was so smooth, revved out beautifully, all over for Mr Holden.

Hope you find a workshop that knows it's stuff, can give the engine a check over and then a dyno tune for your peace of mind.. And stay well away from that original crew.

Well I can remember the old man giving the 35 Chrysler Airflow a bit of carby adjustment and I picked up the air cleaner and tipped the oil all over my Sunday best. Must have been two I'd guess??? which would be about 63 years ago.

"I was just speaking to a tuner yesterday who said it was risky to run without the 'D' as the spline can slip and it will destroy the engine." What a load of rubbish!!! As has already been posted, some aftermarket ecu's need more range than the standard CAS adjusting slots can accommodate. In those situations the locating tab must be removed so the CAS can be positioned to suit. The spline does ALL the driving. The locating tab is just that, a locating device for ease of positioning the CAS.