ecenshu

Yeah, my latches are pretty worn, well the rubber is anyway. My mates car sags even more than mine but I guess I'm just picky with mine Do you need to remove the front quarter panels to get to the bolts? I can't see any other way to do it.

Well the squeak doesn't happen when it's out and it isn't squesking when I push the pedal(it just rattles), it squeaks just before it bites fully. That's the best explaination I can do. I'd rather another noise from my girlfriend rather than a squeak when I press in! :wassup:

Any other places guys? $400 seems a bit steep but I guess you should judge the finish quality I guess. Anyone used Car Toys for this service and what is your opinion? If it's over $200 I might just go get some Meguires and try myself.

After checking my friends R32 GTST, it seems that the R32's are afflicted with sagging doors. Is there any way to remedy this? Is it just a case of realligning the bolts on the hinges or do you need to buy new hinges? I'm getting annoyed at having to either slam my door for them to close or else lift the door as I close it. Anyone notice this and have a fix?

My friend has a twin plate(OS-Giken I think) in his 180sx and his rattle more than mine when you leave it in neutral and push in the clutch. Mine is rather quiet but the bite is REALLY savage...no room for error. I don't really have a problem with the bite of the clutch or the heavyness, it's just annoying (metal on metal kinda like when your brakes squeal when the pad is unevenly worn) type of squeak when it engages into any gear. It really does sound like metal being twisted. Rob at PVP said it "could" be a bearing and it isn't normal for it to sound like that so I decided to look further into it. I've heard multi plate clutches before and mine is unique sounding

Just found out my squeaky clutch might be a thrust bearing...more $$ into maintenance so the shocks are gonna have to wait a while. BTW: what would you guys in SA reccomend for paint treatment(cut & polish products or places that offer the service). Looking to get my car looking at least close to new before my mum totally freaks (she says it doesn't look too impressive...she's a Saab driver ) and she totally hates how it looks so...worn

Max width for R32GTR without rolling guards: Mine are 18x10's (Pretty sure, dont have proper dimensions but they are running 18 255 35 rubber), scrub at front on inner guards at 90% lock but my car is too low at the moment. I will correct this post once I find out rims true width.

Can I tempt you more? I experienced ATESSA today and it was SUBLIME! :wassup:

I would have bought them if I had extra cash at the moment but thats the way life goes...in time, I can't get everything at once, car already set me back a chunk

Looking good and driving fast are at opposite ends of a scale...I wish it could look like that but the car bottoms out so frequently, I might as well bought a Civic.

Hehhee...you saw it at PVP and still think it was tuff? It was soo dirty I didn't want to touch the door handle to open it! (A little bit exagerated but it was HELL dirty!). Anyways, thanks for the compliment!

Well I'm definitely interested...just PM me when they are available.

Rest of the car is pretty stock...exhaust is mild steel and no car got complied as a stock vehicle...I need to buy some legal parts for it because the ones that came with the car is too low for my likes. Also have no idea about what rate the springs are.

Finally got my car registered in SA after going through 5 1/2 months of patience waiting for it to be imported. Good impressions so far, pretty fast, boosts good looks good. Only qualms at the moment are: too low(lowered springs std shocks) clutch difficult to operate(need time adjusting) paint requires cut & polish(some swirls and a couple of blemishes) About the clutch, im pretty sure it isn't standard because my cousins R33 GTR has a softer pedal than mine and mine is rather noisy when it engages. Could it be an aftermarket? It rattles when I press it down and when it engages it squeaks. A big thanks to both Dean at Ultimate Performace Imports(UPImports) and Rob at Performance Vehicle and Parts Imports(PVP Imports), Dean for doing the brokerage and arranging for the importation and Rob for doing the compliancing and mechanical work. I would reccomend both to anyone doing a similar thing to me. PS: Pictures of my car have been posted here before, and more to come when I have the time to clean my car! :wassup:

Saw several Synergy cars parked at PVPImports today...nice looking baby blue soarer

I think kidneys go for $25K so its a start! :jk: I would love to own an R34GTR one day...I'll just keep working towards my goals...hit the first goal for a car now I'll need to hit the second

I don't see why it can't run 8's from that picture...hell you cant even tell if it moves from that picture... Point is, timeslip+mods list will determine if the claim is valid.

Sorry I wasn't clear before, or I'm probably getting my terminoligy incorrect. Car will be for street use and pending $$$ a circuit car. I said damper when I intended to mean the whole shock assembly, ie: matched springs to shocks. Well I guess t get "maximum" suspension travel I'd end up with a landcruiser setup! . I would like the car to be able to handle a pothole or two while cornering hard if thats too much to ask.... Preferable setup will be "firm" ride with some roll on the road so it doesn't skate or skip over ripples. Adjustable anti-roll bar will be stiffened when minimal roll is wanted. Does this seem I'm thinking correctly? Or should/would I need to get a firm/stiff spring/damper combination to stop/minimise body roll? Also, is it damping, rebound or spring rate that affects how much a car rattles your bones? PS: I'm just a dumb car owner and don't know what I mean!

Guess I'll have to skip this one as well. Insurance is still processing at this time so car will be off the road even if I get temporary rego. Hope you guys have fun! (I am sooo annoyed by companies that say "UP TO" 2 weeks...doesn't that mean it will be 2 weeks max??? ARHGHAHH!!)

A little well less known but good guys anyway, call Dean @Ulitimate Performance Imports. They also do performance parts as well as import brokering.

Any further info on how to do this...I'm clueless! I'm guessing you can do this at the motor registration offices...do you need to provide a reason for the temporary registration? If so, what would be a good reason? I soooo wanna take the car out for a spin!(Been waiting like 6 months from bought to on the road, so excuse my itch!)

Doh! Car wont be on the road till the day after the cruise...I'll be there for the next one!

Just hope the DVD's don't involve any p**n coz I'm kinda homophobic... Bunch of car nuts...p**n...giving me goosebumps

Not having any real experience with 1:1 scale cars, based on my knowledge of RC cars though: A good setup for rough terrain(public roads) would be to have the car as low as possible with while maintaining maximum suspension travel. Also, go softest you can with the dampers and get the stiffest roll bars that you can put up with...however, there is a point where it is too soft and I think the standard damper rates would classify as the softest setting possible. Do you think my reasoning is flawed? My opinion is to get dampers that are closest to the stock settings and maybe a bit stiffer to minimise roll to a certain extent. Anti-roll bars should be the controlling factor for body roll as stiff suspension would only be useful for tracks because theres not too many weight transitions on public roads...I can only think of roundabouts and I can't picture a stock GTR suspension settings with stiffer roll bars not being able to handle them Lemme know what you think... PS: would anyone know what the lowest ride height for a R32 GTR while still maintaining about 80% of the suspension travel would be?

I'm concerned that my car is too low(was like that from Japan). I can barely fit my little finger through the gap between the guards and the tyre. I can fit a coke can under the car(standing up of course) at the lowest part so should be legal ride height. How do Cops usually measure a car to be "too low"? Detailed explaination would be appreciated. Also I want it to handle at its optimum so is there a way to determine optimum ride height? Is optimum ride height based on damper and rebound of the shocks or am I looking at totally wrong areas?