NickR33

i have a rebuilt RB25 less than 10,000km old and the oil pressure does a similar thing to what has been mentioned in this thread... in traffic or on reasonably warm days the idle oil pressure sometimes dips below the 2bar mark... it looks as if the guage is a bit sluggish and slow to react not good for the heart after you have dropped 6k on an engine rebuild and the oil pressure looks sluggish... time for a new guage and sender methinks!

they made us do it last time to pass scruitineering... I am not sure why... maybe someone can enlighten us?

ha ha its real hard lining up against some of those old school V8's and rotors that run 11's... can't even hear my car! a couple of times I have reached for the ignition only to discover its already on! staging and then waiting for those big loud bastards to take off so I can concentrate on my launch! ... hey is there a better way to block off the coolant overflow bottle without just tying a knot in the rubber piping?... I lost a lot of coolant last time...

I hope I better my previous PB of 15sec flat!... (stock) ...well I should as my car has another 80rwkw and 100mm more rubber under the bum... anyone else going down for a run tonight? if you see a silver R33 gtst with AVS 5 spokes and a really loud gunmetal R33 gtst with Nismo rims come say hi! we will be the unshaved suss looking characters wearing 4 jumpers and beanies... oh wait that describes everyone there! ... hope its not too bloody cold... good for the car, bad for me

when you lunch your motor you'll be glad you chose the SR

you guys have lots of money to spend on tyres? I have King lows on my car and get wear on the inside of the tyres that reduces their life considerably... as well with the 3.5" exhaust hanging underneath there is only about 90mm ground clearance lastly, be careful your car isn't riding on the bump stops as doing this for a long period can crack welds in the chassis etc however these points only really affect daily driven cars such as mine... I guess if your just going for cruises on the weekend then it should be okay

how would the s15 gearbox go behind the rb26...? you would most likely need to be running the rb25 or rb26 gearboxes wouldn't you? what about the s14 5sp is that a viable option? an rb26 powered s15 would be sweeeeet... and sound horn!

are these electronic bov emulators for real? I ask because a stock looking lexus is200 came round the corner past me on the weekend making the loudest bov noises I have ever heard!?! and to answer your question... its a GTR dude, just turn the music down;)

if you can't get pissed and dance like an arse in Melbourne then your not f***in trying!!

yep, but I have no idea about brake clearance

if you want to keep it quiet, the style of muffler is as important as the overall diameter... I am no expert but I would think you would be better off with a 3" for that much power? if it helps my car is about 200rwkw and I have a 3.5 inch exhaust... it is very quite as it has a centre muffler and rear muffler... both are traditional style mufflers, not cannons... can't help with flow rates as I suck at maths

yes, that would be the consensus can't say enough about the Hybrid GT FMIC... I was very impressed by the build quality and price and gained a healthy 30rwkw without noticable overheating or lack of throttle response... a good choice for you I think... although if you want limited modification and have a bit of cash to spend you could opt for an ARC FMIC that hooks up to the standard piping = no cutting

my mate just had the whiteline works pack installed in his 33 gtst... the ride is firm but does not 'crash' into potholes or jump and skip over rough surfaces... and the cornering? my mate put it best when he said 'it will now corner much faster/better than I can drive' so yeah just get the whiteline kit and be done with it... i am saving up!

he he... like the guy that sold me my car who said 'if you leave the stock ecu in and just reset it, you will be quicker than modified skylines...' er... WTF... and we had rocked up in my mates modified r33 so its not like we had no previous experience... just for the record my mates r33 tore me a new one when we went to Calder a few weeks after I bought the car... ...and I reset the ecu and everything!?

sound advise... imho this would be the best plan of attack

hi Al, nah you shouldn't need adj cam gears for the poncams... they have been specifically designed for the RB25 vct and work nicely straight out of the box... however if money is no concern and you would like to play around with the timing, let me know the results!

SOLD... nice rims thanks Dale

hi guys, can anyone confirm r34gtt rims are 7.5inch wide and +40 offset?

well I got a genuine hybrid gt cooler kit for $750 off a private seller on these forums... the quality was excellent... the piping, clamps, core etc were all beautifully welded and polished and the install was relatively stress free (for a professional workshop not for me ) so I guess what I'm trying to say is that there are bargains to be had and a lot of genuine traders on these forums... If buying sight unseen best to go for a name brand kit from a trader with a good track record... otherwise try and inspect the parts before you buy sometimes it is worth spending a little more time/money for the peace of mind... hope you get your money back or at least a decent piping kit!

I had assumed that, sorry I will be more specific... what pump and injectors are you running? I like the look of the 2535... stealth, response and a solid 60rwkw gain over the stock turbo... did you go for the HKS manifold too?

fuel system? injectors, pump etc?

can't you just go up to 'view' and then 'text zoom' in your browser to make the text bigger? (or is it just a Mac thing?) I know its not perfect but better than a headache... I like the new layout just a bit more contrast would be nice:)

no sorry don't really have a reliable before and after dyno on the cams... they definately made a difference tho, it really likes to rev in the top end now and i got pretty much the same peak power as before the rebuild, just now its at almost .1bar less boost... after I put the cooler on I'm still recording the same peak boost on my ebc just with almost 40rwkw more peak power... I think a power fc and split dump pipe would give me a better midrange but there are other areas of the car that need work first... I think if your happy with the power and the way the car drives, don't be too concerned with the dyno figure... Just as an example I recorded 178rwkw before the rebuild on dyno 'a' and then 166rwkw after the rebuild on dyno 'b' with cams and a front pipe added... then added a FMIC and got 208rwkw on dyno 'c' btw love that series 2 front end... wish I had of know more about R33's when I bought mine

I don't have any problems at all... and my friend has his at 13psi and doesn't have any issues either... there are alot of reasons why people have flat spots, missfires etc and only some of the time is it to do with the stock ecu's overboost protection... what I am trying to say is that if you already have tired coils or worn plugs or some other undiagnosed problem, upping the boost may expose the problem but is not always the cause of the problem... make sense?

You don't need to run 12 psi... get a bleed valve or electronic boost controller and run around 11 psi and you won't hit rich and retard... if you want a cheap way to lean out your air fuel ratios get an Apexi AFC... I have an EBC and SAFC and am running about 10.5psi no problems... no point running more through the stock turbo as you won't see that much more power...