tranman

Hi All, Looking to buy the stock RB25det engine with complete ECU loom coupled with the Transmission for a project car @ $2.5k max Could you please 'pm anything you may have in relation to the above.

Hi John, I'm interested. Will send thru Pm. Ta

G'day what's the price?

Hi mate, could you throw up a price on what you would let the car go for as a whole? ta.

You can use a spare suitably sized hose clamp (like the cooler piping ones) worth junking. Tighten it onto the filter (bad ass tight) with a ratchet. Then using a hammer and screwdriver/rod extension, hammer the raised section of the hose clamp to get the initial rotation started.

Hi what bottom end components does it have? Crank/rods/pistons

All consumable parts would be in summary a good start, of which fluids and belts as you have already mentioned. Further to that, you could check hoses, ignition coils and spark plugs and perform a compression/ leak-down test while apart. Is it heavily modified or stock? Personally I wouldn't bother going way over the top replacing a whole host of parts, since you can begin replacing parts with upgraded or new parts as you go e.g fuel and ignition, alloy radiator, turbo etc. Provided that the engine is in good shape (as tested from the compression/leak down) you'll know your working from a good base. Maintain it (oil/ fluids) and upgrade supporting mods (injectors, driveline bushes/clutch) as required to meet your goals (power/ application: street, circuit, and drift)

How much for just the 6boost only? Is it a high mount?

Dude, I offered an opinion constructive to the OP. I merely attempted to frame my response in an engaging way. I don't come on to these forums tip-toeing around those wanting to play semantics. Of course a CAMs License isn't an answer for doing the wrong thing. To clarify: in the event of a random breath test whereby they use the opportunity to go over my car with a fine comb - I personally use my CAMS license as my last line of defence for my mods which appear mild. We all know if they want to pin something on you, they'll find something.

Who said anything about me getting pulled over for speeding? Who said ALL hoons come from E/hills? Your level of comprehension baffles me.

Yes and there are speed limit signs all across Australia.... I didn't mean Endeavour Hills was Hoon City simply because it had one single hoon hotline sign.

Lucky for you Chasers isn't too far out of your way. My 300kw Skyline is Tuned by them. Paul is an engineer, and tunes everything from Skylines to Helicopters to desert super buggies and time attack machines plus accounts for elevation changes in hill climb machines. After having it tuned: I run full boost flatstick during my trackdays at Phillip Island and the tune is spot on. Can't say the same for my brakes however, they're completely toast -Incl warped rotors front and cracked rotor rear left. Even managed to Spin off at 200km/hr (GPS verified). Car was a beast. Summary: Can't go wrong with Chasers. I ended up using them because at the time I needed someplace close to the CBD so I could get to work after dropping it off. I didn't see Chasers mentioned much on these forums hence wasn't my first choice. Now I wouldn't use anyone else.

Welcome to Hoon city; Where the kids grew up and stopped riding push-bikes and began driving turbo cars. You will note that there is a hoon hotline sign when entering James Cook Drive from Hallam North Rd. I carry my CAMS license in the event of a 'random' check/breath-test to differentiate myself from the hoons vs trackday enthusiast keeping in it off the street.

Regardless of which turbo you use to reach your power goal, you will need to replace your injectors and AFM anyway, so I would buy them first before considering selling and replacing your turbo. Do that first and see whether you can get the power and response your after by increasing the boost pressure also. At 16psi for a big turbo, you won't be maximising it's abilities. I'd say at a minimum, boost it up. Your low boost setting say 16psi and a highboost setting of 20. As hypergear has mentioned, you'll be making a lot of power.

Would you consider parting it? Might get more for it - in which case I'd like to enquire about the LSD.

Something worth considering is the dollars spent to support 250kw. The same or similar supporting mods can support 300kw+ e.g. Apexi PFC, z32, FMIC, Exhaust, upgraded injectors,and fuel pump etc. Your turbo choice will be the biggest determining factor. Notwithstanding the mods above, the other is fuel choice i.e. 98 vs. e85 with the appropriate tune. I found it very helpful worth investing the time to take a look at Dyno Thread. You may notice a pattern of the turbo selection and fuel choice for those making 180-220, 230-70, 280-330 and so on. See if they meet the 'response' your after at the chosen power level. I would argue pegging your power level a little higher at say 270KW+ and put those supporting mods to work. Admittedly I went too big for my setup for my original power level of 260. So I went 300.

Hmm, OK re-reading your post, smoke coming out of the air filter and oil filler cap. That's different. I assumed compression was low, but that could just be your instrumentation. Are you actually down on power? I'm talking obvious power loss and/or possible spluttering misfiring? Back to your original post, piston rings could be valid. Alternatively; Worn Pistons Rings (as per your post), Valve Stem Seals, Turbo Seals. The general idea is that something isn't doing it's job sealing and resulting in a liquid from being burnt, the list above is all oil related. As per the three color smoke guide, it ties directly back to the liquid being burnt: coolant, oil and fuel. Once you find out the color, we can move on to trace where the possible source comes from.

I know that my clutch is quite 'rumbly' when not engaged e.g. car idling in the drive-way in neutral. I suspect a worn thrust bearing. Perhaps you have something like that? Just an idea which I'd throw out there, seeing as though you've come up against some clutch niggles.

Lots of black smoke indicates excessive fuelling issue. All systems governing air/fuel mixture to be checked including OP's AFM as he has already suggested. Turbo seals blow white smoke. Sorry have a z32 with Apexi PFC, so don't think giving you the readings would help. Let me know if you really want them. If car was running fine Saturday, was there anything that had changed or become different since you last drove it?

Check boost actuator and lines going to the actuator.

Definitely sounds like a misfire issue in any case. Test from the sparkplug back e.g. spark plug, coilpack, coil loom, ECU. 1. Coilpacks are the biggest culprit. Have the workshop test them. Check they aren't failing under load conditions. Sometimes reducing the spark plug gap can simply end-up masking these symptoms. 2. Other electronics governing air/fuel including Faulty AFM, Throttle Position Sensor etc.

I hazard a guess and suggest you have a possible headgasket failure, but that ultimately depends on the colour of the smoke you are referring to. Not sure of your mechanical knowledge so apologies if this is all common sense to you below: If you are faced with white smoke: Indicates coolant leaking out from the engine galleries past the headgasket and being burnt in the combustion chamber. Your low compression results indicate this also (weak combustion seal due to compromised headgasket). Alternatively if your smoke is blue: Oil being burnt in the combustion chamber due to poor seals in either: Piston rings (poor oil control i.e. scraping oil off the cylinder walls and being burnt off) or valve stem seals (allowing oil from the head to leak past the valve guides). Can generally tell between the two if it burns blue smoke only during initial start-up = valve steam seals. Otherwise it's the piston rings if smoke is reduced when car is warm and blows smoke under acceleration etc. General rule of thumb: White smoke = blown turbo seals, or headgasket Blue smoke = burning oil in the combustion chamber Black smoke = Carbon deposits and rich fuel mixture A blown turbo will generally blow white smoke ALL the time. If Piston rings were to be worn that much and result in such low compression, then you would surely face excessive blow-by resulting in having oil in the catch can. Since there is none, we're left with the headgasket. So to check, tick ANY one of the symptoms below: 1. Check oil dipstick to see if there is any evidence of water/coolant being mixed through it. Severe headgasket damage can reveal coolant in the oil. Look for abnormal colour discoloration including milkiness. 2. Check your coolant level. Is it down on coolant? Having to top-up indicates coolant loss through combustion chamber or overheating that has caused it to spill out from the overflow bottle. It's a closed system, you should never have to top-up unless either two have occurred. 3. With the car off, take the radiator cap off. Do you notice any excessive hissing (like opening a coke bottle ?). This indicates residual combustion gasses that have escaped past the headgasket and have been left in the cooling system after a drive. (obviously don't open when hot) 4. Start the car with radiator cap off. If bubbles are coming to the surface this demonstrates combustion gasses leaking past the headgasket and into the cooling system 5. Low compression, down on power. Hope that helps, Good luck.

I second that a Leak Down test would be in order. Low compression highlights a possible leak, whether it be the valves, pistons or headgasket etc. I put my second hand engine through a leak down test at the workshop for assurance before purchasing. It's a quick affair, and relatively cheap.

Hi mate, Is the engine still for sale? So it's a Series 2 motor correct (despite whatever a 1.5 series is). Are you negotiable on price if i don't need some of the stuff?

Hi, Anyone Interested in swapping the rear offsets for +38 if they choose to buy these rims?