tranman

Carbon front grill sold yet? Will it suit S2? Cheers

For anyone interested in how my car has from I believe 'worn' over time - was never tuned for a couple of years. I didn't know the test was meant to be done at temp so results are cold: Cyl./psi DATE: 27/05/2010 1/155 2/150 3/150 4/150 5/155 6/150 DATE: 29/09/2012 1/155 2/152 3/ 145 4/145 5/151 6/150? (forgot to jot down but was fine) Not sure what may have happened to cyl. 3&4 but was certainly lower. No matter how many times I tested it wishing it was a bad read. Was certainly giving the motor a hard time untuned though. I feel a lot better now though after reading this thread regarding the 'dynamic' vs static result of how the engine will actually perform. The spread Cyl. 1 and 3/4 seems high?

Correct me if i'm wrong but i'm going to make a few assumptions. If your car is backfiring, and your running an aftermarket ECU - the logical thing in my opinion is you need to have it tuned instead of running whatever base map you have on it. Car backfiring as a result of fuel overrun governed by an aftermarket ECU - sticking a z32 on it won't help unless your going to have it tuned. At a stretch, if you haven't yet tuned it, you could try resetting the PFC via the commander to factory setting?

I agree with what everyone is saying - pay the $ do it once do it right etc. But it comes to a point where over-engineering for headroom for each single performance part that you won't actually end-up using may see you spend $$ unecessarily. e.g. instead put those dollars towards a bigger or highflow turbo where it will make the biggest difference. We'll see if my coils will hold up at 300rwkw but by that stage, I have reservations about the stock motor anyway. An interesting point I would like to make: Maybe it's not a function of power but how much PSI they can handle?? i.e. OP mentioned this particular set were breakdown / blowing-out at around 17psi? Mine are fine but I'm only running 15psi max. Might be useful for people to know. e.g. similar to the way we've come to a consensus around the stock rb25det turbo not doing more than 12psi.

I've been meaning to share my experience. It's been a positive one regarding the purchase of performance coilpacks off ebay. I'm not arguing the validity of claims made in OP nor quick to jump to conclusions around speding the big $ for quality. Everyone knows you get what you pay for. This view may help those thinking of buying second hand. Given my budget I was rather disenchanted with paying big dollars for second-hand brandname coils - generally some only seemed to be a 20% discount to what you would buy new. To put things in perspective: 1. They're second hand. 2. Private sellers do not necessarily have a reputation to uphold or trade as a business. 3. Km's and/or their performance for the parts are generally unverified 4. No warranty 5. Recourse for disputes generally don't exist. 20% discount doesn't seem very attractive after-taking the above into consideration, a risk I would avoid all together and simply buy new if I could have afforded it. The ones I use claim to have a 2-year warranty. Local Aussie seller. Recourse in Aus. - replacement. Ebay Powerseller 99.8% feedback. I currently make 260rkw with them. $265 NEW and am currently very happy. Happy to answer any questions. Not interested in people knocking me for using them. I'm simply spelling out better alternatives to secondhand. -knock the ones selling second hand ones at a 20-25% discount to new.

Hi mate, judging by the picture, am I correct in assuming that the internal wastegate divider piece IS removable? Just bought a new turbo with a bolt-on pattern for RB25DET, however already has the internal wastegate divider built in to the turbo itself. What brand? Just Jap?

Hi mate, got a stock air box ? Price, if so?

Hi do u have a pic if the wheel nuts? Is it a unique lock key pattern?

Hi Mate, Could you provide further details on the spec of the turbo? What price are you looking for as well? Thanks.

Hi. Where is your location?

I think you may have a stuffed head gasket, with oil seeping into the coolant galleries and contaminating it. Check to see if your getting water mixed in with your oil also, as the oil becomes a chocolate colour. Check Water/coolant into oil: Do this by taking out the dipstick or looking under the oil cap. Look for light/milky/chocolate colour in oil. Check oil/combustion gasses in coolant: Turn the car on from cold. Take off radiator cap. If fresh, the coolant should be green and remain stagnant. A blown head gasket will cause the liquid to bubble and froth with a brown/milky colour. It sounds serious.

To be quite frank, its just economics. Its frustrating to hear some of the comments that have been made without understanding how markets work. Sellers (dealers/compliance workshops) blaming consumers? Please.... Since when do sellers need protection from buyers? Unless buyers for some strange reason wanted to boycott the industry by acting like a union, sellers need to harden up. Hearing anecdotes of sellers wanting to do the right thing but were 'forced' to accept work and cut corners?...No, if sellers decide to do that then they are harming their integrity not to mention breaking the law/regulations in the process. From the posts I've read, some of the issues brought to light revolve around the government's ineffectiveness to regulate the policies that they have put in place. As a result you get the f*ckheads SELLERS in the market exploiting them, not the buyers. The blame chain if you will therefore looks like this: Government regulatory authorities-fail >industry suppliers-fail> and then...and i mean a small then, car buyers in the market knowingly accepting illegal goods. The buyer should under no circumstances get the same blame apportioned to them as it is always the seller acting outside of governmnt rules/regs that will be culpable. A buyer who pays for pirated DVD's and does so knowingly isn't (and rightfully so) -isn't as critical as the seller distributing them. This is the same with drug dealers verus drug users. The same rings true for those car buyers knowingly getting their cars complied sub-standard, and the workshops cutting the corners, breaking the law and then justifying it by saying its the fault of the buyer and hence they are contributing to the demise of the industry. BULLSHIT

Hot pink

Don't bother with the so called 'paint protection' products. 1. You pay a fortune for something you could do twice a year. Proper fortnightly washing techniques, a claybar once a year and a quality LSP (Last stage product: wax/sealant) will protect your car each year. 2. The manufacturers claims are misleading. The 3/5 year guarantees require the customer to return at certain intervals (quarterly/yearly) for an inspection to top up the product used. The product itself does not last 5 years with that single application. Otherwise I could say my wax has a lifetime guarantee....provided that i re-wax my car at regular intervals for the rest of my life. 3. Instead use a QUALITY wax or sealant to protect your car for 4-6 months at which you can re-apply. My recommendations for Sealants: Zaino products. For Waxes: Collinite products - They are one of the most durable waxes available. Available resources: www.detailingworld.co.uk www.detailparadise.com.au

plastic bags, or aluminium foil to act as an umbrella. No need to water proof it as such.

Hi, Would you consider parting it out? Depending on how my finances go, i'm interested in a second hand diff (LSD).

With regards to the cap of oil, isn't that what the "wet" and "dry" readings referred to?

Hi all, Was wondering if anyone in Melbourne who has done this could give me a hand installing the DFA into my 33? I got the DFA and Hand Controller units already assembled, they were given to me when I bought another car awhile back. In return I could help you polish your car. Cheers, Will.

No there isn't anything wrong with it albeit old fashioned. Polishes have different characteristics in terms of work time, cutting ability and finish. Sticking to just one product doesn't doesn't leave you with much of an aresenal when tackling different types of cars/paintwork. As an example of some of these characteristics, I prefer Farecla's G3 compound over others when it comes to spot compoundng out wetsanding marks. It breaks down quickly, cuts fast and can do so with minimal heat.

Mate i think i have the same thing. Bought it like that. At first i thought it was my airbox resonating since its a loose. I currently suspect it may be the intake pipe not being fully seated on the turbo. Although the car does sound like its struggling....i don't think it is as it doesn't feel like your typical lugging. The sound I get emanates from the passenger side - front quarter. Let me know what it is if you find out! At the moment I don't have my tools on me to take it apart to ensure everything checks out.

HEy Great write up. I love DIY stuff like this. I will be doing mine to see if i can cure wat i think is the rear diff binding. AFter reading this i have an excellent grasp of what to do. Much appreciated Cheers

I would also bring into question the oil stem seals which would explain why oil is seeping into the the combustion chamber from the around the cams. But those symptoms you described above with your mate driving does sound like a case of the rings.

So if for example i do want to skimp on the dollars required for premium unleaded and in addition to that be comfortable with a small drop in performance (someone stated 10-15hp?).......i could reset the ECU and fill her up on say 91 and let the learning process begin?

Yeah standard diff. Will have a poke around to see if there is any obvious wear/damage to the mounts and any wires when the weather is better. I don't think that would help tho. The engine mount may well act as a cushion to the whole effect in that the hesitation/jerkiness is absorbed somewhat before being directly transferred down the drivetrain. It wouldn't seem to be the actual cause. But like i said i will have a poke around....its raining atm.

Hi all, Was reading about oil surge out of interest on google, and then thought about fuel surge. But since i mentioned that i had a full tank i ruled it out. However on a motorsport forum a few blokes mentioned: 1. "I experienced surging in my poor old 6 cyl VK which used to fuel surge on right hand corners(no matter how full the tank)" 2. "Yes this is a common issue with Gemini....sweeping corners are the worst" Direct Link: http://www.bmsc.com.au/forums/rallying-tec...fuel-surge.html What do you guys think? I dunno if it applies to me as they referred to CARBY engines (gemini, dunno about the VK). Cheers, Will.