Sub Boy32

Any more on the fitting of these? I am about to start on mine soon, just interested on how you got on with the bulb plug/igniter to fit in the housing?

Is it in yet?.......she said.

Would you sell them made? If so, how much?

Is it a buy one, get one free deal? Hook me up maaaaaaaaate!

Any updates on this for the R32 Projectors? niZmO_Man.... is the Mini D2S 4.0 still the one to go for? I'm looking for something that will be relatively easy to fit (don't mind a little dremel work) and stealth as HID in NZ is a WOF fail.....

NZEFI offer them with either 10.5 (factory Nissan) or 11mm and 14mm top hats and with the correct Nissan "square seal" on the lower caps......even a ballast resistor delete plug. http://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-rb-1000ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/

We have run the "1650cc" half length injectors with the standard (well slightly modified) lower cap that is usually run on the 3/4 length extended nose "040" injectors before to get around this problem with the connector/socket fouling on the RB manifolds (other engines also have thus problem) The "1650cc" injector has a very narrow cone spray pattern in testing and doesn't suffer from shrouding issues from having the pintle further up in an adaptor, we just put a chamfer edge on the final point to be on the safe side. There is also a direct drop in replacement 720cc injector available for the Neo. http://www.nzefi.com/product/bosch-720ccmin-high-resistance-top-feed-fuel-injector/

Yup, the "040" injectors have been selling for years now with lower adaptor caps and different size top caps to suit most applications, out of the box Bosch have them at approx 900cc at 3bar and and 1150cc at 5bar but they are just referred to as a Bosch 1000. gone are the days now for needing to modify a Bosch 550cc injector to make an ID1000.....

The factory R35 coils will not fit under the coil cover. However......NZEFI make a kit using R35/VQ coils that are modified to fit under the covers, it’s yet to be put on the website but is available flick me a email at [email protected] for a pic if you like

What are your plastic throttle spring retainers like? I had a similar issue and it turned out being the plastic retainers had perished and the springs were binding edit: scratch that I've just read you are running a single throttle.

Mine was at 123,000 when I had the 0.92 housing on the RB30 at 470kw (98 octane) on a Dynapack. I have now gone to a 1.05 housing on the same engine and it made 500kw on the same Dyno.....but I don't have speed readings for it, but would think it would be similar if not the same. I also don't think it's the intercooler or exhaust (although 3" is too small for 500kw) you have just got to the end of the Turbo.....9180 is required if you are chasing "Moar Pawar"

Have you measured the injector boss hole size? I'm not familiar with the Jun plenum but if it's made for the RB25 Neo it should be a standard 14/15mm seal. If it is made for a series one or series two RB25 they came out with a much larger sized seal for the side feed injectors. There are fuel rail kits from various brands (Race Works for eg) that come with adaptor collars to convert the manifold from side feed to top feed setup, just make sure you get one with the correct top seal size (can be 11m or 14mm normally)

Has the Model T hand crank conversion been completed yet Paul.....want to see numbers etc. cant remember, what are you using as a convertor for the BW turbine speed sensor? Or does that all singing and dancing ECU of yours have the ability to take it raw? [giggity]

Cast alloy reducer 4" to 3" where can I find one? I need to modify my Greddy cast alloy intake pipe to have a 4" to 3" pipe, does anyone know where I can buy one?

Haha! And burnt spiders and birds that have been nesting in it! ?

I do.....but I drive like a pussy ......however it never slipped on the Dyno

The biggest issues with stuffing sensors is either having them unplugged from the controller but still in the exhaust or sitting there with the ignition on without the engine running......better controllers have an rpm signal input like the Link or Motec units. Have a read of this to make your sensors last a bit longer: http://www.nzefi.com/bosch-lsu-wide-band-airfuel-ratio-lambda-sensors-fail-often-aftermarket-performance-applications/

Running an 8374 with a 1.05 housing and 22psi, I'm using twin 40mm TurboSmart W/Gs with no boost issues, 500kw at the wheels on 98 octane

The HKS Sub-Cam ?

I'm running a 350z pedal and a LS2 throttle. The 350z pedal bolts straight in so it's a no brainer and the plug is the same as a Toyota stepper motor (NZEFI sell them), the other good thing is the pedal bar is metal so you can change the angle etc by bending it to suit. I think the LS2 throttle is a little too big and makes it a little touchy and hard to get the feeling linear, I'm looking at putting the 6-throttles back on and running a BMW M3 throttle motor to drive them.

295x30x18 on a 10.5" wheel, Yokohama AD08R 295's recommended wheel size 10"-11"

Yeah I have both, I know I would get better feel if I ditched either the ABS or the booster, but just want to get a little more without getting too "race car"

Bigger than BM57 brake master? Is there an ABS master cylinder that's bigger than the BM57 that will fit an R32/33/34 GTR? (maybe will a little work) i have upgraded from a BM50 to a BM57 with big Alcon's all round and although it was in the right direction to changing the pedal feel I would like a little more weight in it. i know that "Auto Select" make a bigger one.....but they want drug money for a small piece of CNC alloy! Surely there is something out of something else that can be had for cheaper?

Update on doing this for anyone looking to do this, parts required are: 1, R33/R34 or S14/15 subframe. (I used a R33 non-Hicas subframe, R34/S15 subframes have more gusseting, I also welded in a GKtech subframe reinforcing kit.) 2, Offset subframe bushes (I used the GKtech solid offset bushes, these mount the subframe up a lot higher which is better for roll centre and will require a little "massage" of the floor pan on the front on either side of the subframe, test fit the subframe before mounting the diff and arms on it.....all will become obvious) 3, R33/S14 lower suspension arms (you can still use the R32 arms but will need spacers/washers to pack out the difference on the inside mounts 4, R32 upper arms (I made the mistake of buying brand new R33 top arms thinking they would be required.....but they foul on the shocks) 5, Driveshaft Spacers (I used the GKtech 10mm ones. There is some differing thoughts as to whether these are required, but I figured if the R33 subframe is 10mm wider on either side then I would put them in to avoid damaging the CV joints) 6, R33/S14 Tie Rods and Bushes (If you are getting rid of the Hicas by going to a non-Hicas subframe like I did you will need these and something like a set of Whiteline bushes to replace the ball joints that are in the hubs for the Hicas tie rods) 7, R32 ARB (seems to still fit, the mounts are spaced a little further apart)

Yeah that's what I used.....but figured it should be OK on a chocolate heat shield ?