Sub Boy32

Still think it's excessive back pressure due to too small a exhaust housing .....as asked 5 pages ago, have you had the back pressure tested, my car shares similar issues to this and I have huge back pressure.

4x4 Dyna Pack reading the same as a rolling road Dyno at the engine......with the power loss you get through a GTR 4wd system, I wouldn't think so Dan. I know comparing dynos is a bit pointless, they do read a bit different.....but I don't think it's anywhere near as much as 50kw!

......so do we have a boost graph anywhere for it?

Had my car on a Dyno Dynamics on another local tuners.....it made 458kw so not much different than the 467kw it made on the Hub Dyno.

After a big read of most of this thread I would say the turbo is too small for the 3.2lt Pete. My car has the same problem making the max power, we had to reduce the boost in the top end.....however I also would have thought it would have made a bit more than that, my turbo is only a little bigger than yours (8374 0.92 EFR) and I managed 80kw more on 98 octane. Have they done a back pressure test, this would tell you if you have a restriction from the small exhaust housing? What I couldn't find is what revs it is at full boost (22psi)?

The factory fuel rail has a 10.5mm hole for the injectors, where as most aftermarket injectors and rails are a 11mm ones, some injectors can be jammed into the factory rail......some the top of the injector is too wide to fit

Always good to read the updates, this is one of the most interesting projects on here. A couple of these would have been easier to fit in-tank than the 044's http://www.nzefi.com/product/walbro-465lph-in-tank-fuel-pump-supports-700hp/ Looking forward to the updates when the clutch is in

Plug it

Just a pic of the four sets that have sold, I'm getting some more made if anyone wants a set.

I wouldn't even rate the T56 as a good gearbox, yeah it's strong but I think it shifts like a truck! As the others have mentioned it would be a huge waste of time and money when there is already a very capable and smooth gearbox in the R34 Getrag box.....and as for clutches, you think there is a smoother easier clutch than the likes of the Nismo Coppermix Twin?

I got our CNC guy at work to make me a set of Roll Centre Adjusters/Spacers for my R32 GT-R. (Will fit R33's and R34 GT-R's as well) These are a direct copy of the Ikeya Formula, Moonface and Cusco spacers (without their high price!) and I have had them made in high grade 6061 billet alloy and will supply them with grade 12 high tensile bolts. When you lower the car, the suspension arm angle is compromised as is the "roll point" these correct the angle by spacing the lower arm down to a normal like point to help this problem, they only take about an hour to fit (you will need to get a wheel alignment after fitting, and requires you to have some form of adjustment for camber and caster) I am getting more sets of these made up now, and at $180nzd including the fasteners they are soo much cheaper than the others available......and are an exact copy. PM me if you would like a set. Chris.

Can't help you with the decision of what plenum to run, but when I fitted my RB26/30 with a Greddy plenum I struck the usual/know problem of the clutch master hitting it. I got a race car CNC guy to whip me up a spacer to allow me to run a S15 turbo, and have sold quite a few of these to forum members, let me know if you want one

My bad.....still same brand Was more about MCA brand as an option.....

I have Tein MonoFlex on my car, and although they are very good, when the time comes to move them on, I will be getting some MCA's......after getting to know Murry and Josh at MCA you realy get to realise how much of an understanding of suspension they have. They punch well above their weight in building winning shocks for track, rallying and more recently time attack.

We have found on two cars now that the Z32 ECU even with a Nistune board on an RB25DET that the tune just doesn't work as good as a R32 ECU with a Nistune board, the cold start and idle are heaps better, and the overall tune is too. In the bad old days you couldn't modify the R32 ECU to do VCT, but you can now.

I would be running dual -6 feed lines (one to each end of the rail) and a single -8 return via the FPR back to the catch can. That way if you need to upgrade to dual 044's you won't need to change the lines. ......I personally don't think one 044 is going to push enough if you are running E85 into 1700cc injectors

Are you sure about that? I think you'll find that's how the Nismo pump came about.

And the thickness of the ring gear in an N1 pump is less due to the extra tooth compared to a standard pump IIRC. .....a genuine Nissan N1 pump ruined my first motor when the gears broke, I replaced it with a Nismo pump and had no issues with it, now have a Nitto pump on my RB30, and so far so good

Yum! Now just need someone to make a billet 4x4 one with the dry sump pump built onto it........$$$$$$

Cheers for the pics! That's a huge help, now to find a inline thermostat.

Mmm.....cunning plan! Nice thinking, cheers

I currently have a Nismo oil cooler setup on my engine which completely does away with the factory water/oil heater/cooler setup, and although it does a fantastic job of keeping the temperature cool under any conditions......it doesn't have a thermostat which means it takes ages for the temperature to come up to a nice useable 70deg+ I want to put an inline AN-12 Thermostat, but I'm not sure without pulling it apart which is the feed to the cooler, and which is the return to the engine? Anyone know?

So with this new build Paul, have you considered getting GTRNUR (sorry don't know his real name) to do you up one of his big open deck spacer engines to retain your flash RRR block and your head you already have? Or is it not going to be a cost effective way of looking at it?

Provided you have ditched the HICAS you can remove the rear section of the standard R32 GT-R power steering pump, the pump is modular and is pretty straight forward to work out when you pull it apart, the only modification required is to have the shaft cut down and re-hardened. Here's a picture of mine on my build log, almost at the bottom of the page. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/154737-sub-boys-r32-gt-r-then-now-2.html