Sub Boy32

If I was going to do it over from the start I would put a 1.05a/r on it.......however with the response and power I have now I don't think I'd change anything, if I wanted more than 650whp (98 pump gas) I would just go to a 9180 as I don't think I will be able to squeeze much more out of the 8374 even with a bigger exhaust housing.

I'm not Geoff.....But for a 8374 on a RB28 with head and cams, I would say the 1.05a/r

If you want a drop in replacement injector that doesn't require any plug changes or rail mods, see if you can find some R35 GT-R injectors, they are 560cc and are the exact same shape etc as R34 GTT injectors. As for the fuel pump, a Walbro 255l/ph with the R34/S15 filter kit is an easy and price effective solution.

Yes, that is fine, the wheels remain the same just the housings change. The big problem is just buying an exhaust housing on its own, I wanted a 1.05 a while back and they just weren't available. Not sure you would need to go to a 1.45, I'm already over speeding my 8374 on a 0.92 housing (132,000rpm, recommended max is 120,000, absolute max speed at 140,000) I think the 1.05 would be plenty on a 8374. If you want more you would be best to go to the 9180

I asked Geoff this a while back, the answer I believe was no due to the difference in the exhaust wheel size between the turbos, 80mm vs 74mm

Sorry, typo, it is a 1.2 restrictor, cheers but I'm going to stick with the 40wt oil. I will use both of the sump breathers on the new catch can design as it seems to be the common answer in this and the oil control thread. I will have to check on the head breather pipe if there is any oil residue in it. Thanks for the sketchs of the catch can baffles, that is how I thought is would plumb up. Do you put any stainless wool in it anywhere? Yeah a cyclone can would be cool, you could perhaps cut a hole under the battery box (R32) and run it down into the guard to get the height required?

With the oil pressure light I don't mean the factory light, it is one on my RacePak IQ3. I'm running a oil pressure sensor that is hooked to the Link ECU and the light goes off at 100kpa I don't think it will be an oil heat issue as I have a Link oil temp sensor hooked to the dash, and a large oil cooler, it never goes above 90deg, I run Redline Race 40, and there is about 8ltrs of it in the extended sump.

Cheers guys, yeah I have read all of the oil control thread, the last ten pages as pointed out are prob the most informative bit for what I need, just was making sure there wasn't any thing else I was missing. I didn't see much in there regarding baffling of the catch can, but I'll have another read to see if I've missed anything. I know the "head drain" is not really a drain, but that's what it seems to be called. I do have a 1.5mm restrictor in the block, but never got the drains drilled.

I know this subject has been thrashed to pieces over the years, and I've read everything on here I could find....but I haven't seen anything new out there for a bit, and hoping there is some more definitive answers to the age old question of oil control. Bit of back ground, My car is about 700hp, built RB30 GT-R with standard cam baffles, a shit little Greedy catch can, and a RIPS extended sump and a Nitto oil pump, I also have a head drain going to the top of the sump on the drivers side. I took the car out to the track over Xmas for a blat around on wide 18" S/H slicks, and as it did the last time, it fired a shit tonne of oil out the catch can breather under the car and bought up the low oil pressure light at least four times around each lap, I have looked over the data log from the ECU, and it's not too bad where it mostly does it (low throttle position) but there are areas that it isn't so good. Normal driving around town and fast blats the country hardly puts anything into the catch can, it's just moisture and a little bit of oily sludge, that's fine, but on the track with the increased revs and high G's it's a completely different story. I know the catch can is rubbish, and that is the first thing on the list to get built, but it is still going to fill it if I can't keep the oil in the engine. So......Mines (or Hi Octane) Cam Baffles, are they going to help to keep the oil from firing out of the breathers? Catch Can design.......Baffles? Sump return? Steel wool? Head drains? Accusumps.....is this going to help with the low pressure areas around the track? Will I need one of the electronic valves? In a perfect world, Dry sump is the answer, but I can't quite run to that Any good answers would be good. Cheers, Chris.

What's with all the sighs.....sounds lame Why wouldn't you get ID1000's over the Denso 560's? ...... Because the ID1000's are just a high flowed/decapped Bosch 550cc injector, so the spray pattern isn't anywhere as good, and also the plugs will need changing, the OP is only looking for 270 so although you could use 1000cc injectors, it is a little overkill.

I stand corrected on the filter baskets, I've never seen one that fits the wide mouth of the EV14's /Bosch 550's, I wasn't sure if they would foul the rail as I've never tried fitting them as we haven't seen any filter baskets to suit.As for a 550cc not being able to make 500hp.....I've done it plenty of times. By "GTR injectors" you are meaning R32/33/34 GTR, they are actually 10.5mm tops into the factory rail, aftermarket rails are 11mm, yes you would need to use resistors, as for the R35's they are direct fit.

http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/garrett-turbos/gt2860r-gtr-9.html

Those ones won't fit. The R34 GTT runs a completely different size/shape injector to any of the other Skylines, so without changing the fuel rail setup and plugs you won't get the Nismos to fit. The ID1000's and the new Bosch 1000's won't fit either without some modifications, the R34 injector is a 3/4 size.....you can use the ID's and the Bosch 1000's without a top cap to give you close to the right size, but you won't have a fuel basket/filter as they mount into the top cap adaptors.....and even then I think the plug will foul on the fuel rail. The R35 GT-R injectors that I listed will be perfect for the job, yes they are a little pricey, but you can be garanteed they will slot in perfectly and have enough for future upgrades to 500hp.

Personally I would be fitting these injectors; http://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-r34-rb-550ccmin-top-feed-direct-fit-fuel-injector-kit/ They are factory 560cc R35 GT-R injectors, and are a direct fit for R34 GTT's and Z33's and are good for 500hp......and as an added bonus they will have a better spray pattern than the ID1000's as they are just de-capped/high flowed Bosch 550cc's. The ID1000's will require a bit of modification as the sizing is different, and the plug to be changed as the factory Nissan plug is a Denso and the ID's are a U.S. Car plug.

Awesome looking build! Can you tell me where you got the fuel line brackets from?

Me too, I have ID1000's in my car at the moment, I've seen the spray pattern difference between the ID1000 and the new Bosch 1000's....and the new ones are much better

That is the case with the EV14's that started life as a Bosch 550cc that was de-capped/hi-flowed to 1000cc like the ID1000's.The "New" EV14 1000cc injector from Bosch is stainless and designed specifically to run ethanol etc. Check my link above

Yes, the Bosch 1000's are designed to be used with ethanol http://www.nzefi.com/product/bosch-1000ccmin-top-feed-fuel-injector/

Hi Brad, any chance of those photos? Cheers, Chris

You should have told 6boost that you were running an RB30/26, they are 38mm taller than a RB26. I had Sinco Customs (NZ's version of 6boost) custom make me one, and it started with a modified version of their RB26 - T04Z one, and they tacked it together and sent it to me to check fitment before they finished it, it had to go back and forward a couple of times as the RB30/26 with my EFR8374 IWG was a bit of a tight fit, but they did a beautiful job.

If you are having issues with low injector opening times I would be running primary and secondary injectors (as long as your ECU can do it.....Link G4+ Xtreme would be fine) We had a similar problem with a 1000 odd HP 2JZ Supra road car running Siemens 2000cc injectors, the dual maps required to run E85 and 95 oct pump gas wasn't very nice, he switched to two sets of Bosch 1000cc injectors, now it runs the primary's on 95 and both on E85

Justin: Phil at NZEFI runs an LS2 throttle and pedal IIRC on his S14 Silvia RB32 track car with a ViPec (Link G4+) and it works great, I would do the same if I was only using a single throttle......but I want to keep the 6TB. Don't know if I'm keen on the the M3 part if it fails regularly...... Brad: That sounds interesting! Do you have any pictures of it mounted on an RB26 6TB? And what do you use for the second TPS? How much would you charge to make one up to suit?

I'm pretty open to fabrication work. Here is a video of Matt's FBW BMW M3 motor on his RB28 http://s91.photobucket.com/user/mattyjeff/media/12%20TR-Racing%20Rebuild/VID00017-20130215-1525_zps8934b74e.mp4.html

So I'm looking at going to fly by wire on my RB26/30 to take advantage of a few things that Link and many other ECUs are updating software for, like idle control (my car has none of the AAC valve etc) cruise control, launch control, traction control (although this one really isn't needed with FBW) I still want to keep the 6 throttle body of the RB26, there is a guy on the UK that runs a BMW M3/M5 FBW throttle motor with a R35 pedal. Has anybody here used anything else? Link has used the pedal and throttle off a Falcon and an LS1/LS2, and although the pedal is fine, they run single throttle bodies. Your thoughts?

Sounds legit... Buy a powerful and relatively expensive car to repair and modify, get a good aftermarket ECU, big turbo and large injectors.......and then get a cut and paste tune...... How to blow up a motor 101