Nebuchernezzer

Some couriers do private, i think it's only big ones like Toll Ipec etc that only do companies. I've not actually sent anything myself via courier but i've had things up to the size of an entire LSD cradle with diff axles and hubs sent to me via courier, the entire IRS from QLD to me was like $150 i think.

Willing to send interstate? What would it cost to get the diff to 2324 NSW? I was quoted $80 to get a diff from Brisbane to me so i would imagine it'd be similar. Jarich

HKS pod sold, other parts added.

They are pretty heavy, i'll weigh them and see how much postage is. If it's not to much then yeah i'l do that.

K&N pod filter, large, washable, good condition, 3" neck $50 S13 front inner guard liners, good nick, taken out since with my car slammed on 17x9s and with extra lock they kind of won't fit... $30pair 60mm S13 SR20DE throttle body, taken off wreaked motor. $35 Just Jap adjustable upper rear control arms. Adjust camber on the rear of your S13/R32, very handy on lowered nissans. Only a few months old, still in very good condition. $100 Stock SR20DET turbo manifold, only 1 stud, faces are both nice and flat. Turbo that DE . $15 S14 Manual tailshaft, good nick, came with my car for some reason $100 Set of 4 coilovers, unknown car (could be starlet GT), two with rose jointed tops, no springs. Bought to use the threads and spring seats to make coilovers for a car which coilovers can't be purchased for. Good for those AE86 boys. Coilovers are rebuildable. Only one of four shown. $80 S13 SR20DE stock airbox with filter, might fit CA18DE as well. $25 2.5" catback exhaust for S13. Suit mild turbo or NA car. Quiet. Some cracks in the welds around the rear muffler, two small holes in rear muffler. $80 Stainless SR20DET manifold, T2 flange, no studs, face just filed flat, no cracks etc. Was removed from the car after stretching a stud (from bashing the exhaust on the ground), ended up throwing a stock one back on and i don't think i'll be taking it off again any time soon. $120 R32 GTR rear cradle and hicas rack, has extra diff brace over Silvia/180sx/R32 cradles Can throw in R32 GTR rear outer uprights, cast aluminium not cast iron like lesser nissans, reduce unsprung weight. $125

That doesn't really matter, the rear cover is interchangable, just run the GTR rear cover or just run the whole GTR diff. I run a GTR diff in my S13 cradle.

I ended up fixing the toe rods instead of fitting the cradle.

If you are after anything from the HICAS etc that is attached to the rear cradle i have bought it for the diff/axles etc. So if you need anything from the HICAS PM me.

Hey Chris . I added a 4mm spacer to my tie rods (S13) and thats about all you can do before you run into issues elsewere. You start to run into problems of clearance to the inner guards, and in some cases (like my S12) you came very close to overcentring your steering knuckle/tie rods which isn't so flash. On my S13 i just hit the inner guard sometimes and the stock stopper on the control arm hits the tie rod end. If i want any more lock i'll have to go to some longer control arms to change the angle i can get before the tie rod and knuckle go overcentre and most likely cut the stopper off the arm and weld another one on a few mm further back. And yes sydneykid extra lock really does help. I use pretty much all my lock on two of the corners at oran shortcourse. A bigger factor is giving you that little margain of error should you overthrow it, turning a lose into a messy drift insted. Ask me about it tonight Chris.

I'm currently running a non hicas S13 rear cradle, with cheap aftermarket toe and camber arms, R33 GTR hubs, R32 GTR axles and diff. I have a R32 GTR cradle laying about and since i'm swapping the GTR diff for another one i have anyways (existing one is worn out and getting noisy) and my cheap toe rods are starting to flog out i'm wondering if i might as well just swap to the GTR cradle. I've not looked closely at the cradle yet however it appears pretty similar in all areas except for how the diff mounts and that it has HICAS. Perhaps the rear suspension mountings differ as well but i could get around that by using the S13 outers of course (assuming that all the arms are the same) If i fit the GTR cradle i'll make a lock bar for the HICAS of course and since it'll be using OEM quality tie rods i'll have eliminated my cheapo toe rod problem. I'm hoping i can fit the S13 castor arms to the GTR cradle to. Does anyone know exactly which components of the suspension are different and if i could make a mix/match setup using the bits i have. Also is the geometry of the GTR cradle any different to the S13 one? I'm pretty certain that mounting wise the GTR cradle is a drop in swap. If no one knows then i'll have to start actually trying it out.

Let me know if my offer is good or waaay off. I've got a ute this week so pickup is pie. Jarich

I have a pair only of near new Nexan N3000 tyres. I wouldn't mind running somthing narrower on the back of my silvia so i can get more offset so i'm looking for someone who has a pair of narrower 17" tyres and is willing to swap or just buy my 255s. I'm located in Newcastle area NSW. Thanks Jarich

But you'd be mad to do it, the damage is extensive and extends to the A pillar at least. However it's a good price for the parts. Does it come with front mount, exhuast etc?

Is the radiator available and in good nick? If so PM me price are you after for it.

GTR radiator? (is GTSt smaller?) By cracked top hose you mean the plastic spigot on the top tank is cracked? Where are you located?

What are the offsets on the rims?

Why not??

Ah i see, so they are all backwards compared to what i'm after....turbo Z31s aren't real common either.... Might just have to look at falcon and S14/15

I'm after some skyline (or other 5 stud) hubs to modify. Now i found this pic of R33 front hubs and it's not what i expected, i was expecting a hub held on by a centre nut under a conical cap. Can anyone tell me how the hub is held to the stub axle on a R33? Thanks

I've generally just used a vice on most urethane bushes before and hand pressure on some that are pressed in from both sides (which i presume these aren't). Did a set of control arms from a R31 the other day and it's not real hard to do at home. By the way how much are you getting urethane bushes for? I looked at Noltec and Whiteline ones for a mate and they are either as expensive or more expensive then a bolt on rose jointed castor rod.

You need oil and water temp gauges to know these answers. I wouldn't be game to run an engine oil cooler in a road car with no thermostat either. Minimum gauges for drift IMHO are: oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, boost. Not the stock water temp gauge either, it reads in a very rough range.

PM'd

I'm after a pair of 5 stud front hubs from a rwd nissan. I just want the hubs, no knuckles etc, and it doesn't matter if the bearings are shagged or not even there. I don't want to pay much for em either, they are going to be machined and so on for another application i have in mind and new bearings installed anyways. I'll probably ask you to take some simple measurements too but we can all do that i'm sure. PM me or email [email protected]

That honda is a Beat i think, midmount rwd. Also re the security thing it's soooo good, i was in Hokkaido for a week last march and since there were 6 of us and one key to the aparto we just left the place unlocked and wandered in and out, left snowboards laying outside and generally took advantage of how awesome it was. By comparison where i live in australia has had multiple robberies in the past week and i had to move the car trailer somewhere more secure since suspicious types were eying it off.....

I want to know to addapt these hubs to another car, i need to know some rough dimensions so i can work out weather we can sleave the hubs to take different bearings.