Nebuchernezzer

550cc SARD sidefeed injectors with plugs, suit SR20DET Newcastle Reason for sale, sold the car they were in $560+postage or swap for S15 480cc injectors plus cash Used for one year or so PM or email me on [email protected]

Postage is $5, i'm fairly firm on the price, i'll see what offers i get in the next week or so. Get back to me when you have the moneys and we'll see .

Whats your postcode? I'll find out postage. I'm in Newcastle NSW. Jarich

It's been used for around 6 months, it comes with it's full loom and instruction manuals so yeah everything you need.

These are all bits and pieces i have laying about i'm not using in my new car. Autometer pro-comp ultra lite 30psi boost gauge, in very good condition with autotechnica gauge cup. White face $90 Splitfire electronic oil pressure gauge, good condition, no cup White face $50 On the right. Pair of OBX Monaco reclining bucket seats, in as new condition, suit person around 75kg no rails, easy to adapt to existing rails $400 for the pair Apexi Rev Speed Meter (RSM), meaasures, revs, speed, 1/4 mile, 0-100km/h, split acceleration times, has additional outputs, removes speed cut etc. Blue Vacuum Flourescant screen, all loom and instructions. Very good condition. No stand $250. All located in Raymond Terrace. email: [email protected] or PM

I've heard that the R33 (perhaps auto only) engine fan is an upgrade on some other engines (larger blades, more blades). Now i'd like to see if this is true and weather i can bolt one onto my SR20DET. So if anyone has one handy i'd like to know the following: Is the auto fan the same as the manual one? Whats the number and width of the blades? Dia of the whole assembly? What is the PCD of the mouting to the water pump? Thanks Jarich

Wanted, parts for 5 stud conversion on S13. *Z32/R32/S14/15 etc rear hubs *S14/15 front hub complete assembly *R32/33/S14/15 front control arms Also after some cheapish rims to suit so the car can actaully roll away afterwards...

Price changed to $150

From the mouth of my engineer who engineered these mods on my car: *Gauges are allowed on the A pillar, he checked that they don't obstruct my vision so they passed, they are above the height of my steering wheel. *The diameter of your wheels is irrelevant as long as the outside rolling diameter remains standard, however width changes are based on the weight of the car and the original rim size (somthing like 1.5" wider than standard is allowed on heavier cars and 1" wider on light cars). *My front mount was covered in mesh for engineers, i did this to stop rocks etc but apparently some cops had been defecting people around here for having nasty sharp exposed intercooler fins, wtf.... *My coilovers were engineered no problems *Major modifications such as an IRS conversion pass with ease provided it's a neat job with sensible mounting points etc.

Bride low rail to suit sidemount bucket seats (not just bride's). It is for the drivers side of a R32, R33, A31 and is in very good condition. It is located in Newcastle and I prefer pickup but I can meet in Sydney on the same days as drift meets are on since I attend most of them (next is on the 22nd). I'm asking $150 email me on [email protected] or PM me.

Although i'm sure alot of people drift on a viscous LSD i'm told (since i've only ever used a mechanical) that the take up of the diff (ie when it's going from open to locked) is a little laggy, also the diff can heat up alot and render the viscous pack useless, so you'll have an open diff again until it cools down (so i'm told). A good LSD is somthing like a 1.5 way (locks up easily under accelleration and half as easily under braking loads) or a 2 way (locks up just as easily under accel and braking). I dunno what a 3 way is... There are a few other types of LSD but mechanical clutch pack type diffs are the go for drifting.

Dunno about swaybars, drift coilovers are so stiff your car isn't likely to roll anyways, but it will need some good bracing once it is that stiff. Good LSD is a must to. Castor is very welcome, camber is handy to but castor is better.

Ya mechanical and electronic stuff i can fix, electronics is a bitch but i can fix it eventually haha. Modding is all good to, the car in my sig down there was 90% built by me and 10% by my dad. I might be holding off on the ceffie for a bit now, the old gazelle had a good showing at State Drift last weekend so i might do a little more playing with the rear suspension and see what it can do before i upgrade, that is unless someone comes along and offers good cash for the old girl but that's unlikely. The gazelle stands out alot at meets which is good

Yeah i realise this, just an example of the cars around the place though.

Will do me thinks, i'll have a good poke around yours on sunday ay.

You can just see the plates in the photo up there ^

Yeah i don't expect stuff to last forever, i just got lucky with the gazellr probably (it's 21 or 22 this yeah hehe) Yeah looking at selling the S12, it's a bit nice looking to drift to hard and it's also a bit harder to setup cos of the lack of aftermarket, of course i've pretty much swapped everything on it now haha. It depends on weather i can get a good price for the gazelle or not (i can go down to around $7000 if i take some stuff off it, but it's much easier to leave it mostly intact and try to get $8000-9000). If i can't get a good price for the gazelle i'll do rear subrame bushes in nolathane, rear control arm bushes, rear springs and probably shocks to. It's not very good for higher speed drift as it is now.

Yeah as long as it's pretty ok it's good for me, since i'm getting rid of my nice shiney car for somthing a little dodgier for drift hehe, rough around the edges won't really worry me since it's likely to take a nudge or two over here anyways. What kind of electrical problems do they have? My gazelle is decked out in the best of early 80s electrics (mirrors, roof, windows, funky radio) and the only one to fail on my 445,000km example is the radio. Or do you mean engine electrics?

Were there any stock 5 speeds? The $6500-7000 cars i have seen are over 15yo imports, landed but not complied. By the way i guess anthony would know what has to be done to get them to pass inspection for an over 15yo car (i would guess sfa and that i can do it myself easily). This is the kind of thing i'd be looking at http://home.iprimus.com.au/jverban/993.htm High milage but neat looking one http://home.iprimus.com.au/jverban/558.htm Or the ex drift pig I probably wouldn't swap to SR, keep it as cheap as possible, modify things starting with coilovers, diff and rear brake pads for drift. I could remove the SR from the gazelle but then it'd just be a very shiney slow car.

I'm considering going for a cheap cefiro/laurel as my next car. Basically i have my heavily modded SR20DET powered Gazelle now but since it's quite nice i don't really want to be going out to try and kill it every few weeks at the drift track. Also i can't fit SFA spare rims in it haha. Anyways is there any particular things to look out for on these cars? As far as i understand the RB20 and gearbox are identical to R32, the front suspension, rear cradle etc is identical to S13 and the rest is cefiro. It sounds like a good option since i've seen some uncomplied ceffies on importer websites from around $6500 (manual turbo) and if aftermarket coilovers and diffs are the same as S13 then it's going to be easy as pie to do up for drift. Doing work on the car myself is no probs (since i built the gazelle from scratch etc) since i have a fair bit of experience with cars. I saw the driveshaft post down the page a bit, i presume this is only with big power so thats not a worry, any other deficiencies or pain in the arse quirks? Any other thoughts? Thanks

Just looking for expressions of interest in my current car. It's a 1984 Nissan Gazelle SGL with a SR20DET conversion Everything was done by me and the car is fully engineered in NSW (ie state that is strict on this kind of thing). I'm thinking of selling it and getting somthing that isn't so nice (paint/body wise etc) to flog the hell out of haha. Somthing like a cheap cefiro would be nice Specs are as follows 1984 S12 Gazelle SGL SR20DET from 1994 180sx JZA70 Front mount intercooler Custom 2" stainless IC piping Pod Filter in custom box Engine damper Strut brace Camber tops S13 control arms R31 castor rods, modified for more castor S13 tie rods modified for more lock S14 front brakes Clutch pack R200 LSD (none of this viscous rubbish hehe) 3" custom tailshaft with falcon GTHO unis rear k-mac springs rear adjustable koni red shocks Z31 driveshafts IRS conversion (IRS from late model gazelle) 16" Advan tri spokes or 17" Multispoke rims Resprayed in 2004, two pack electric blue, gold graphics boost guage, oil pressure guage Custom made clutch (nismo pressure plate rebuilt for more pressure ie 700kg, HD organic full face centre) SS autochrome stainless turbo manifold 3" turbo back exhaust 3" hiflow cat GFB hybrid BOV NSW Rego till march I would consider prices from $12,000-8000 depending on what gear the car was sold with. This is just an expression of interest, if someone really wanted it i'd be happy to sell for the right price Anyways tell me if i'm realistic or not

Hehe should have sold it to me, i'm partial to the cefiro

That sucks, i liked that car. There are next to 0 cefiros in newcastle (well one or two but they are blue or white that i've seen). Anything black and cefiro shaped will be treated with suspicion. By the way i always thought the exhaust was kinda destinctive. (bad shot of it i know).

As far as i could tell with the drift crash it wasn't really anyones fault. The 4 cars were drifting as a group and the first one spun, the last guy really didn't have anywhere to go (the other two only just missed the spun sileighty anyways). The two drivers talked later and it seemed cool. The damage was probably about equal to the two cars but the S13 looked much worse.

Great day, i struggled alot with understeer in the drift sessions, i've never had my understeer much at all before but it's the first time i've been somewhere big enough to drift higher than second gear. I did some playing with camber and tyre pressures which seemed to help me a little toward the end of the day. I was in the blue gazelle with gold on it by the way. As for the crash in the drift it was my mate in the two tone gazelle that hit fernando in the gold sileighty. 4 cars were drifting in a row with fernando first, he spun and the 2nd and 3rd cars dodged left and right, my mate in the gazelle was still broadside and tried to spin and miss him but ended up hitting him going backwards. Thats drifting for you though.