MADE

Thanks Everything is done and back together with the help on my friend who does custom car A/V. Every thing you mention plus some is exactly what we did to fix the triple gauge cluster. The paint does look better but Im not sure how easy it will be to clean than before cause the texture is not a what I was hoping for. Prior to painting it was perfect, they sprayed something on it they referred to as "surface" after which it look like it was fresh from the factory but smooth. If he doesn't work out I'll just strip it again and the the paint shop sort it out since it was rather cheap just for the spray.

Ok what is "metho" I'm an American living in Japan. I used paint thinner on one piece which cracked it and simple green on the rest. The simple green and 400 grit and it came off pretty easy. Sprayed it flat black, might spray it again if it doesn't look good installed.

Im trying to avoid carbon or anything aftermarket. I don't mind the OEM color but the texture make it difficult to clean dust or dirt. But I started taking if off with simple green and its the paint that creates the texture that I don't want so the problem is probably resolved. This is my 1st interior DIY already jacked up one piece the rest is coming along. Im going to need some filler though.

Old thread I know, I don't like the texture of the trim in my GTT, so I can across this thread. I wanted a nice smooth wipeable finish. Anyone tried these yet from what Ive seen the texture is still the same?

I do.

Do you have an aftermarket BOV?

Forgot I have a pair of White LMGT4 17X9.5+12's

Yes , I am talking about the indicators, I ended up buying the Nismo set with GT-R harnesses fitted in about 10mins total. The only problem I ran into was sides skirts for the sedan it's a bit more difficult. Nissan makes 2 piece skirts which I have seen in person but could not verify from the part or in FAST by part number. This would have worked due to the GT-R design. I ended up modifying my one piece skirt into the GT-R lower fender piece. Once I can figure out this MAC I can load pics. Thanks again shotgun since this is the only detailed thread I have found on the subject in English.

I can get these easily if you need it. For my ER34 I have S-tune suspension (Willing to Sell) Speed meter S-Tune front and rear strut tower bars S-Tune front and rear stabilizers Coppermix Twinplate clutch. S-tune rear tower bar for R32 (Willing to sell) Side markers Probably a few things I forgot to mention. After oil and radiator cap I'll be complete.

The bonnet catch and latch assy's are about 5,000 yen each from Nissan in Japan. The brackets in post #7 are a little less. I'm about 90% done with this, If you sue a GTR latch assy it will need to be modified as it is too long and it need a new hole in the bottom drilled. You can use the exsitining hole but it way off and was almost breaking the spot welds. (At least for the sedan.) As far everything went as instructed in the thread. But the sidemarkers plugs are different.

Thanks I'll pick it up. Actually I think all the body parts will be just under $1000 USD total. I found a shop that has its demo car tucked away from 10 years ago. All carbon parts with the exception of the 1/4 and trunk. Hope all goes will look forward to some PM's if I get stuck.

Bump for the dead! I'm about to try this as well. Deciding if getting a bonnet latch assy will make things simple as bolting on or will it need to be altered as well. Since its 50 bucks wondering if its worth it or not for those who have tried it.

I just did the bare essentials. Aeromotive 340 Fuel Pump (rewired) FMIC Z32 525cc Inj GT2535 full exhaust and a few small items. After I did all this I ended up buying a Nismo coppermix twin soon after. Depending how much torque your putting out will depend on your clutch life. Just determine what turbine is going to suit you and work around that. IMO don't go over board if you don't need it. And don't buy alot of "nice to have stuff"

Thanks mate now if we can get a GTT sedan owner to post we'd be golden.

Anyone got pics of these TE's on a Sedan? Considering the 18X9.5+12 or 17x9.5+12 JJ SL's

01 ER34 RB25DET NEO Z32 MAF BLITZ 525CC I/J BLITZ I/C AEROMOTIVE 340 PUMP HKS GT2535 1.2 BAR POWER FC Made 354PS to the wheels, Clutch started to fail anything about 1.2. Replacing it with a Super Coppermix Twin and trying for a bit more torque and power.

Fixed lock please. Blitz Injectors work fine

Yes, I did and they are. I just dont think they are long enough to spray fuel.

I recently had a set of Blitz 525CC Injectors professionally installed in my RB25DET NEO. Granted the shop wasn't a tuning shop which I didn't think was a big deal since I could make the injector corrections on my Power FC to start the vehicle. (Or so I thought) Looking for someone who has this setup to see if there were any issues with others intially not starting. (Car was in good working order prior to install) I changed the injector setting to 70.8% / .35ms as well as had a tuner verfiy but it still not working. Between the installer and the tuner both aggree everything is in order but fuel doesn't spray from the injector. However it goes in and returns from the rail. I was told it might be possible the latency of the injector is past the spec of the driver of the PFC. But I want a second opinion since I dont think this is the case. The fuel pump works and was installed brand new less than 3 months ago. The Injectors are new and recently flow tested. (31209) Fuel system is good. (lines not crossed & has pressure) The PFC was working prior to installation and has been professionally install and tuned with the standard Injectors. Spark plus are getting spark. TPS,CAS and other sensor are functioning correctly. Any thoughts? From searching seems alot of people sold them only one person mentioned anything about a PFC.

Can someone with that has done this before chime in, I brought a set and the Mech said it won't fit due to O-rings. After consulting with Blitz he said they mentioned something about trimming them, however he said he can't recommend they will seal correctly. (All of this is from Japanese translation).

In Japan the ER34 GTT /5MT sedans sell for a bit more than the coupes. The cheapers ones are about 8K USD and the most were between 9-12K but those were listed on the web. A couple weeks ago I stopped by Machida Yokohama area and they had a couple that were dirt cheap so had been converted though. IMO your better off buying one already in Australia. I got my car bascially stock minus S-tune suspension for about 8,500 after the yen conversion.

I would check for a boost leak, and go back to the factory ECU. Are you willing to sell the mines ECU, if so PM me a price.

IME if you have a torn coupler it's going to be more than just annoying to drive.