Duncan

So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels. The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for

Sorry I think that must be another language thing, globe = light bulb

Just note that when trying to find a short in a globe power supply, it is best to disconnect the globe as it will allow current through to earth. With it unplugged it is easier not to get confused. Also with the r32 wiring, the high beam has 2 power supplies (one when you push the switch forward and the other when you temporarily pull it back; so if it is the high beam blowing you will need to trace both circuits

Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?

I agree, most likely a sensor issue. You didn't mention how it was running but above about 20:1 it won't run anyway

my guess is 2wd and 4wd are not interchangeable, but in any case you can just buy the bush (regular or adjustable) instead of a whole new arm

OK, that is a helpful description, because that sounds exactly like a bleeding issue in the clutch....these are hard to bleed manually even when the damping loop has been removed. I'd suggest bleeding again....start by filling the master cylinder up and opening the bleed nipple. Come back and check every now and then that the master cylinder is not empty. Let it gravity bleed for a few hours and see if that improves

You cut that screenshot a little short; immediately below it First number is torque in Nm, then in brackets kg-m followed by ft-lb I'm not sure why they provide a range, I have always aimed for about 80% of the top to leave a little room for error

I doubt you'll find someone with specific experience. Any competent mechanic can service it, the motor is same as late 350z.

Yeah 4wd (boosted) has a recess in the firewall for the booster, and 2wd is flat - the example in the link shows the flat surface. When you deleted the booster, did you just attach the factory slave cylinder directly to the recess in the firewall with no adaption?

Catching up on a post, I've replaced the external shark fin with a small 4g antenna (no further drilling, just a 1mm embiggening of the existing hole, and run that to where the dual battery models have the battery in the left rear guard. No idea what the factory antenna did, but removing it had no impact on anything I use, according to the US manual the GPS antenna is in the dash and it still works fine Also ended up stealing battery power from one of the amps and ACC power from a unit nearby to add an ACC relay to power it. The mounted the booster, wifi, power socket and antenna splitter in the rear left guard out of the way, all out of site with the boot trims in

Thanks for the link.....but I'm still not totally understanding (a bit slow). So as long as the host unit supports carplay or android auto, you plug the unit to a USB C port, and then change the AV source? Does the unit run its own apps (eg I could run Real Dash or Torque etc) or does it rely on a host phone and just run Android Auto from the phone (which is very limited compared to full Android?). And, does the touch screen work for the apps? Only the bottom screen or the top screen as well? The 4g wifi looks like a good feature if you have kids with devices in the car (noting none of the versions seem to support 700mhz Telstra)

Mate, if Australian build quality was an eye opener, wait until you try a Chrysler. If you need space and fuel economy (and you don't want to hit the track) a fuga hybrid is the way to go. Similar power to the 400r (270kw), roomy, comfortable, good on fuel, great build quality

It can be hit and miss, I can fit 15mm ones on the v37, but only because the wheel happens to have voids on the mounting face that allow it to fit. Have you checked the mounting face of the wheel and know it will not sit flush? Rather than cut (or try and find shorter) studs, just buy a thicker spacer (unless clearance from the wheel to the guard does not allow it), then everything is reversible in future

You can get nylon ones for nissan or aftermarket brass bushes for a tighter fit (GKTech I think?)