Duncan

interesting....sounds like the later trans has software differences (or AM vs JDM). If I wasn't going down the tuning route it would be worth looking into retrofitting a new computer to the old box.

That's how it seems to me to. For the people that want huge power RBs (which it has been shown to do), this is great news, but that is not the same as trying to bring an rb 30 years forward....its not clear that there is a market of people who would pay 10s of thousands to do that

Surely you mean 1 penny

Just checking, is there still and AFM and then leak free intake piping to the plenum? that would kill it if it not. An unloaded turbo in the exhaust won't cause an issue, it you are worried just disconnect the wastegate so it is open

lol let me guess 10c lollies used to cost 10c too! prices have moved on old timer

I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end

pretty sure that is about $1M for a 100mx100m slab....I'm gunna need some help on that. I do have the space and understanding neighbours though

I agree...but that aint the going price for a 400r. Pretty speculative price because it has plastic on the seats still, I just don't see new car buyers being too excited about a JDM import, different mindset/different market

FWIW, the Sutton Road facility is a good one, they have a wet kidney skidpan and a dry area as well as the back track....the club hired it a few times back in the day The clover and wet pans at Eastern Creek are the only ones I still know of in Sydney, that place is always expensive but different clubs would run different prices/formats There used to be a place called HART at St Ives, not sure if that still exists. We used to hire the runway at the tafe at schofields for dry motorkhana, not sure if anyone still does that. And of course that lovely one at Oran Park that is now a housing estate....

Sounds like you are trying to escape one abusive relationship by getting into an even worse one. It is possible to change your life if you want to

This may not cheer you up too much, but it really doesn't take much contact to crumple it back like that, and while any pre purchase inspection should have warned you it won't really change how the car feels as long as the panel mounting points are in the right spots so it looks right externally. I would clean up and repaint the rust spots though

We need pics of grumpy GTSBoy butchering things Do you remember what the plating on the crush tube and bolt was? I feel like the old killer cadmium ones work better than the current silver (zinc?) ones

@PranK is there a restriction on posting pics based on post count?

we can only guess exactly what happened from our keyboards, but to me it looks like they were targeting 27 but the wastegate was too small or poorly controlled and the boost crept up, that is quite common

I'm still not sure what you are trying to acheive, but I wanted to clarify something about Lithium's response to your question... Only within certain limits. All of the examples Lithium gave were of detuning for a particular reason. Before the engine/turbo/wastegate combination has hit full boost, you can't increase it....the wastegate is shut and the turbo is pushing as hard as it can Once the combination has hit the target (controlled) boost, you generally have full control over whether it makes more or less boost, because it is being limited/reduced from its potential. This is generally done by controlling the wastegate In the top end, with an undersized turbo, it is possible you won't get to your target boost anymore if the turbo is choking up. In this case you cannot increase boost any more without changing the setup. No change in cost compared to any decent build, other than tuning time to get the engine to make less power than it is able to at a certain point

right, but fundamentally, for a given mechanical setup, you are either using all the torque (and therefore power) it will give, or you are choosing to run it less efficiently. Many tuners will have a practice of identifying peak available torque and then winding it back a couple of % for safety, but unless you are working around a very specific issue like a weak gearbox, there is nothing to be gained by making 20 or 30% less than the engine can

That is typical (for a rb at least) with a medium to large turbo, noting the format of the graph is probably misleading what you see a little (half portrait width but full height, in landscape it would look quite different) Basically until it hits target boost the torque curve is rising steeply, when that is 4000+ rpm it is not great to drive since almost all of your life is between 1,000 and 3,000 rpm. Once you hit target boost the wastegate opens and torque stops rising so quickly. From there the shape of the curve depends mostly on the cams and where they have a peak vs the rev limiter

Last of the maintenance items for now....not sure why but the drivers side window switch had heaps of wear on the right front and right rear switches Unfortunately, unlike earlier Skylines the controls are bolted to the door trim from the inside. So....off the with door trim. There are bolts or screws: Behind the door handle cover, pop it off from the handle side Under the rubber trim at the bottom of the door pull (also just pops up) Behind the courtesy light at the bottom. Other than that, just window down then pop off the usual selection of push in clips around the perimeter and the trim lifts up Interesting that they have a bolt on cover instead of the old school plastic held on by goop....I guess they prioritised sound levels over price Then, 2 screws and 2 plugs to replace the switch (looks identical to the Fuga/Q70 one incidentally) and put it all back together. Also much better

I'm really not following....are you saying you want peaky (ie laggy) torque? generally the plan is to get as much as you can, as low as you can so it is usable.

Welcome to SAU Beanie, I guess you would be looking forward to driving it again at last

From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)

In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird

Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller

So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off

Ultimately, if the tip is not far into the runner and the o-ring seals, then you are in business. Have you applied pressure to it as is? It is not really a problem for the injector to twist once it is bolted down, the oring seals it and you don't want it jambed into the oring too hard The plenum is intended to take multiple size lower injectors with different adapters, but the way you have it is fine if they seal.