Duncan

Well, as long as you have the flex fuel kit you can use any ethanol mix. Also FYI the pump e85 varies between about e70 and e85 across winter and summer from most pumps

I'm not aware of e30 in Australia, but I'm pretty sure e85 is still around. You really want a setup with an ethanol sensor so you can run any mix of ethanol depending on what you can access. Fuel Check NSW app shows 14 site in sydney metro with e85. What are you adding, will you put in bigger turbs too? Apparently the wastegates are pretty small and can't bypass enough as you run more boost. I'm sticking to 1.3 bar with 98 on the standard turbos with my tune on advice from the tuner, and boost drops significantly in the top end; apparently larger turbos with larger wastegates are needed to get anywhere meaningful from there.

That probably needs a specific thread....and if you want to run different ethanol mixes you will need the ethanol sensor and wire it into the ECU (which has different requirements depending on the ECU year apparently)

first-ish start.mp4 So yes, it started and sounds excellent....good times. One leak from the oil cooler fitting but otherwise all good for both oil and coolant. I didn't get time to set the timing or check the idle control, and it needs a new battery, but it sounds awesome and runs fine with a bit of throttle. And obviously that power steering belt needs a bit more tension.

Next pic will probably bring back Charlie's PTSD So yes, pump is back out. I hooked the fuel return up to a hose into a container to flush out the first litre or 2, jumped the Fuel Pump relay and.......nothing.... Turns out the pump I had pulled out, checked, cleaned everything....was dead. I hadn't actually hooked 12v to it to check it worked before I put it back in. Anyway...Neil had kept the old pump which still worked, so I just swapped it back in. All good, flushed the lines out, ready to start

OK....so something that works like it said on the tin! Fitting the pressure feed into the car was an absolute PITA because the oil filter is in the standard location and then there is a fitting to run to the oil cooler. On the other side between the filter and the steering box is the standard oil pressure sender (not working for some reason, something to check) and 2 tapped 1/8 BSP threads for the oil temp and pressure gauges. Unfortunately it is really tight in there and it took a hours of stuffing around to get a t fitting to connect the priming pump and retain the gauge sender. Also, the Aeroflow sump has some massive drain plug (needs a 32mm spanner) so I couldn't use the regular fitting there either. In any case....once it was all hooked up, like magic priming.mp4 15 sec, 3 bar of oil pressure. Left it running a couple of minutes to push through everything, looked good

Yeah the latest style kit has been trouble free, I've done a fair few klm on it including pushing a bit on low fuel and it hasn't been surging (that's not an endorsement for race use, I haven't tried that low, or that hard cornering!). For street use it has been a good thing, handles the high current OK, only real issue is it is not cheap

Yeah that's what I figured too....that or the compressor gets very dizzy

Yeah that's what I meant, permanently connected not manual

I had never actually looked into it, but aren't onboard compressors a thing in trucks?

fair call about sau.com.au really, only the pics give it away

I don't know what those pipes are, but I'd say there is a good chance they are old school Japanese tuner because they are equal length and nicely made. Maybe someone like @Rezz who has direct access to japanese history might be able to help. Even so, I'm not sure what inspectors could check it to, they presumably are googling 30 year old japanese stuff same as us.

Did you check Matt's suggestion? If the ECU is not powering up it will crank but not earth the fuel pump. You can also check the input to the fuel pump relay, it should earth for say 3 seconds when the key goes from ACC to ON, and also at all times when the key is at STRT

Bit late, but the factory balance tube is fine, that's why its there (stable post throttle pressure source).

FWIW, air jacks are actually pretty light and simple to add, they are just 4 hydraulic cylinders (often at the main cage A and C pillar points) and an externally accessible airline - they make quick work a breeze

I'm far from an expert, but for sticking bits of metal together occasionally I got a MIG, the biggest one I could get with a 10a plug (because while I have some 15a GPOs around, they are not everywhere). Also, because I get through SFA, I just buy the small disposable gas bottles at Bunnings, I'm not opening a BOC account to get through 1/10th of a full size bottle each year

Absolutely amazing level of detail! It's probably worth swapping the sump for a extended/baffled one while the engine is out though

OK, starter changed for a spare without much trouble. Neil had kindly left space to get to the top starter motor bolt from above with a long spanner which makes the whole deal much easier, and everything else was neat and easy to get at from underneath. Once the starter was changed everything was good, unplugged the CAS and turned the motor on the starter to make sure everything was free and happy. Onto properly priming the oil and first start. I'd picked up one of these oil prime kit from Boost doc a while back and this was my first time using it. https://boostdoc.com.au/products/engine-oil-prime-kit?_pos=1&_sid=28c628a65&_ss=r While I'd organised all the fittings to hook it up to my GTR (sump plug to -6 feed and -4 T to tap it in and retain the oil pressure gauge, neither suited on this car as the oil pressure needs to T into 1/8 NPT not -4 and the Aeropro sump has some massive drainplug not that factory whatever it is. So, waiting for a couple of fittings, then I'll prime it and do first start, hopefully next weekend. Other than that going well, there is very little stopping a final alignment, tune then shakedown day

Well, Nissan says So factory expects 0.11Mpa or or 110kpa or 1.1bar or 16psi (which feels low to me, but there you go)

That bit at least you can fit by drilling a couple of clearance holes in the sump webbing to get a socket in there

That is a pretty poor reflection on a well regarded ECU...surely a clean 5v supply for the sensors regardless of ECU voltage is #1 requirement

As you can tell from updates....I haven't had a lot of shed time lately. When I'm on this though, I feel like I'm reliving Neil's last days. Everywhere I go on the car I seem to come across something he was working out. When I went up to his place just after he passed, I noticed he had a RB starter motor in the vice. And sure enough, this was my shed today So, last episode I mentioned the battery had 12.4ish volts but when I turn on the kill switch it drops to 9ish volts. Even with the stater main power removed, same. Matt said above: And yep, when I removed the solenoid power from the starter, the voltage jumped from 9 back to 11.7ish. Thus my testing the spare starter this arvo. Spare is good to go, just need to throw it in tomorrow. I'm not convinced that is the only issue as the voltage still drops from 12.4 to 11.7 when I turn the kill switch on, but first things first

Yeah so N1 and any other larger than factory pump are pretty famous for pumping the sump dry...obviously we don't often get to spend 20 or 30 seconds at high rpm/full noise on the road so I'd still be suspicious that is what is happening here.

speaking of the relief spring and noting this is one of those stupid times where I understand imperial (psi) but the graph is in metric (kpa), it looks like the oil pressure is a little low at full noise too, isn't the relief spring 120psi/830kpa?

Yeah well I was thinking...there is nothing that happens when you get off the throttle that should cause low oil pressure, its not like clearances suddenly change or and the relief spring would close and in any case the sensor is on the feed side....so more likely there was no oil available to pick up which means all the basic oil control stuff to: 1. keep oil out of the head (restrictors) 2. get it back out of the head when it gets there (external breathers/oil return, drilling out the block and head oil returns) 3. have more oil in the sump to pick up - larger capacity sump 4. have more oil near the pick up - baffles