Duncan

Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)

From there, it was just a quick electrical check, prime the oil and start her up Which, is not what happened. 1. Bloody seppo Aeropro battery holder. Not only was it too tall for the battery (which I'll forgive them for, I have another battery the same nominal size that is taller than Neil's one, but the bracket is a fixed height so the battery was spaced up) But the thing that really shits me is the hardware to hold it on requires a 7/32 Hex key. WTF. No-one will ever be able to remove or install the damn thing without a hex key they don't own 2. Kill switch no longer worked once the console was installed. Neil mentioned above he had to adjust the length but it no longer cleared the console once installed. Sorted. 3. Suspiciously, the brake light holders were hanging in the boot with no globes. Sure enough the stopper on the brake pedal was missing so they are always on unless the kill switch is activated. Will pick one up tomorrow (turns out 32 and 33 don't use the same stopper) 4. All that sorted, I turned on the kill switch, turned the key to ACC. Nothing. Turned it to IGN. Nothing. Checked some fuses and found the main IGN in the boot was missing which improved things once it was replaced. Now ECU and dash lights turn on with IGN but still no fuel pump. 5. Turned it to Start....ECU on, no fuel pump, no starter. Plus the voltage dropped straight to 9v. I suspect the starter is f**ked but am going to have to work through it all and see what is happening, really looks like more than one issue. Does anyone have the R33 fuse box key with the circuit it sources from (eg BAT, ACC, IGN, SRT etc) and supplies? I can find a translated list showing Amps and circuit without supply circuit, and I can find supply circuit without Amps and target circuit.

3rd time lucky, the AAC is now all plumbed up after getting some final fittings All set up under the plenum of maximum access

OK, so the weight has been bugging because it was really low. I did it again today and got a more believable answer at 1246 without driver And with a 93kg driver I'm pretty sure the car was still slightly on the quickjack last time meaning the full weight was not on the scales

Sounds like you need these two: Plenum post throttle to Fuel Pressure Regulator Plenum post throttle to Blow off valve signal You can use any of them for anything, just depends what routing is convenient You probably need these too, depends how your boost control works (eg, MAP sensor in the ECU) Plenum post throttle to ECU or Boost controller input (if you have one) Post Turbo Pre throttle to Boost Control Solenoid (if you have one) then to Turbo Wastegate

I was just going through this on Neil's car (33 gtst). Assuming you are using standard AAC and Cold start valves, you need Post Turbo Pre throttle to Boost Controller (if you have one) then to Turbo Wastegate Pre throttle to AAC input AAC input T piece to Cold start input Cold start output to plenum post throttle AAC Output to plenum post throttle AAC Output to brake booster (needs a 1 way valve) Plenum post throttle to Fuel Pressure Regulator Plenum post throttle to Blow off valve signal Plenum post throttle to Boost controller input (if you have one)

You can bring them in from the first model until Nissan Oz sold them, and then again since Nissan Oz stopped selling them (I think, on the second)

Welcome back, glad to hear life's wheel is turning in the right direction

Awesome pics Rezz, thanks for sharing them Another stop for my "need to do in Japan" list

Actually PowerFC is probably the easiest to get basic data from, it comes with a hand controller and display so you don't need to remember to pack a laptop every time you drive. It also has a PC based viewing/logging option if required. Nissan used consult on these because back in the mid 80s, ODB was just a glint in a standard's body's eyes. They switched to OBD shape around 2000 (my 2001 Cima had OBD shaped but not OBD compliant port) With the standard ECU there is a cable and software available to give basic data too, I think it is called Nissan Data Scan or s

when does it run badly; hot/cold/both, idle/part throttle/full throttle what computer is running it and what data can you get from it?

I don't know....but I can't see how they would be. Different shape chassis and bumper means it is unlikely the reo is interchangeable. Doesn't mean it would be impossible to modify it to fit of course

So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about

lol thanks for the pics but some arrows might have helped for context. If you mean the bit I've badly traced in red, that is a PITA vacuum signal for the power steering pump, only R34 GTT was "lucky" enough to get it. Yes you will need a nipple of the same size somewhere in the intake between the air filter and the throttle or the power steering idle up will not work correctly

To be fair, you could got to the movies on Tuesday for $2 in 1994 as well. Or buy the median house in Sydney for $92k

Can you post of pic of exactly what you mean? Unless you have a fancy aftermarket intercooler, the AC and intake are not connected in any way

Incidentally, I also put v3 of the tune on the car and did an oil change from 5w20 to 5w40 to see how it affected oil pressure in the mid to high end. I'm still happier with the thicker oil and will stick with it, but clearly the system is happy with 55psi even if I'm not! It's well within the service manual specs...but they are very open

So the other thing I got sorted over the weekend was Z1 oil catch can install. https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-q50-q60-30t-baffled-oil-catch-can-kit-p-23546.html It was a good kit, most importantly it came with preformed silicone hoses in the right shapes rather than trying to bend/join regular straight rubber hose. It did come with crappy spring clamps not proper hose clamps so I ditched them On the down side, it is made for LHD cars and RHD cars have the main ECU harness running straight through that location, I ended up bending 2 mounting brackets so the loom is up against the brake master cylinder compartment wall to make room for it....otherwise everything fit without modification Intercoolers off on both sides, but there was enough room to get everything done without disconnecting (and therefore having to re-bleed) the coolant lines. Each is mounted with 4x 12mm headed bolts, plus in and out side hose clamps (7mm headed, nice) and 3 electrical connectors on the navigator's side which were a real pain to undo (probably for the first time in 13 years). Also one of the mounting bolts on the driver's side was cross threaded, thanks Infiniti/Nissan workshop mechanics. On the navigator's side, the catch can plumbs into the factory hose that goes from the cam cover PCV back to the intake. This is the 2 new hoses in place. All simples and direct fit On driver's side, there is a bracket provided that mounts to the throttle body, they even provide slightly longer bolts to allow for the bracket thickness which is nice (although, they don't have captive washers like the factory bolts of course) In that pic the main loom brackets are not in place, once I had "adjusted" them across it now sits up against the panel and just clears the OCC The remaining problem with this is emptying it; currently you have to remove the 3x m4 bolts that hold it to the bracket and both banjos to remove it (probably dropping the banjo washers at the same time) pull it apart to empty then replace. I do have some fittings coming for a remote drain from underneath that will also add a little capacity...it is very small and will need to be emptied every oil change to be sure.

OK, solid mount Z1 diff brace is in, pretty straightforward, it picks up 3 diff hat bolts and ties them to 2 support bolts on the subframe. Pretty sure someone else on here said they had reduced axle tramp with this but mine was already pretty good for smooth wheelspin, and still is....will see you this goes over time and whether I end up with a broken rear diff hat

Yeah it was a good result, and confirming the car is full of fluids and all interior etc in, other than fuel. I think a few pages back (maybe many pages!) he mentioned some serious lightening in the doors with the chassis punch, might have been done elsewhere I hadn't seen yet too

Yeah this isn't a super complex shape, but I was still happy to buy instead of fab version 1; very little in a modern can is a flat surface, and that is true here again - the undertray has about 50mm in height differences that I would have had to work out myself. I will probably make something more substantial before it does any rally, I don't think 1mm steel is too much use as a bash plate. There is also cooling to think about, Z1 have done a bit of development and have some air holes and louvers in the shape, will see how that works out too

A little progress; I took the opportunity of an oil change to take a sample for oil analysis, will be interesting to see how it was treated for its first 125,000klm (I know how it has been treated since :rofl:) I went with 5w40 and will see what that does for oil pressure at higher revs. Also fitted the Z1 front undertray....a little more sturdy than the plastic factory one (although I suspect it won't stop a tree stump ) Nicest thing about it really is the 2 bolt "service panel"....a gift to the oil changer compared to removing 14 bolts holding the factory tray.

I think a scissor lift is better/faster in most cases, but I guess it does obstruct access to the centre of the car? BTW I weighed the quick jack. 3.5 tonne model is 50kg for each side. So yes, portable, but not with one finger

*edit* see post below, this is not correct! Not a huge update because still waiting for some fittings for the intake. But I did corner weigh the car, its enough to make a GTR driver cry at 1163kg (race ready except no fuel) Sorry about the terrible pics but I think they are readable With 70kg driver

While I agree I'd start with a bad earth connection issue....I also reckon a new to the car/second hand starter is also cause for suspicion. Can you test it out of the car with a pair of jumper leads? Also, if could be neither....does the engine turn over OK via the crank bolt? It could be an assembly issue and the starter is trying too hard as a result